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Turbo truggy


2 piece shaft is often the best way, casey cravens had a setup that was killer with a solid pillowblock made from a few explorer driveshafts.


its something I am sure I will have to do when I start wheeling rated trails again.

I have a Toyota front shaft setup from high angle. I talked with them and I can add a short shaft and pillow lock to it. I’m at about 46” on the front shaft.
 
I got the link tower trimmed and tacked into place.

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This is at full compression. Not much wiggle room. My hydraulic steering ram will touch my crank pulley before the diff hits the oil pan, but my bump stops will prevent that.

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Next time I’m building a buggy so I can put stuff wherever it belongs
 
Started working on the front link brackets. I built a crossmember for the lowers. I know I’ll most likely have to remove the center of the crossmember eventually, but it’s stronger and easier to weld in as one piece. By the time I cut it, I will have other pieces tied into it. I’m setting this up with the axle at full compression.

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Made a little more progress on the front suspension. I just need to build the upper frame brackets and then I can cycle the suspension. I’m a little worried the brackets will hit the oil pan when I’m fully articulated. The brackets are just tacked on, so I can move them out if I need to. If I move them, I’ll most likely have to bend the upper links for clearance. Packaging everything on an LCG build is a pain. Anyways, here’s a few pics:

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That is some crazy stuffing there!
 
It looks like I’m going to have to move the front axle forward about 3 inches from where I had it sitting so I don’t destroy my oil pan. This creates two problems. It might put my tires into my turn signals. I can always put LEDs in the bumper, but the original plan was to keep the front end looking like a ranger. The second problem if the length of the driveshaft. I need to do some research on this. I might have to go to a two-piece driveshaft.

this is typical and necessary when you want to stay at a sane ride height. depending on how you cut/modify the fender you can easily go 2-3 inches and it will still appear distinctively ranger. running the gorilla style flares or even relocated bushwhacker style its doable with decent style.


https://www.amazon.com/Bushwacker-21027-11-Cut-Out-Fender-Flare/dp/B000COA1X0/?tag=959media-20

I suggest just to build a tube set in that style. if I ever quit being lazy, that's what I will do and they will match the rear fenders on my flat bed...it is jeep-esque but will work well.. I been wanting to do a cage similar to yours for 20 years so I don't want to build tube fenders as the cage will likely cause a rework...that's how I convince myself to do nothing and go fishing instead:icon_hornsup: I get away with it, so it don't get done:dunno:


just throwing it out there:icon_thumby:
 
Is it just me, or does the passenger side top link mount look taller in the photo looking at it from the front?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
It’s the camera angle. I spent a long time hanging from a straight edge and comparing it to measurements off the floor to line those up.
 
It’s the camera angle. I spent a long time hanging from a straight edge and comparing it to measurements off the floor to line those up.
Good deal. Looking forward to more progress pics!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
I got the upper frame links built and cycled the suspension. Everything works really well. I just have to build mounts for my ORI’s and fab up a mount for the steering ram and then I can start on the back. The rear suspension should be a lot quicker to build.

It’s hard to get pics of the front axle fully articulated since my saw horses are in the way.

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I didn’t get much done Sunday. I had to work on some side jobs. I did build a sawhorse to set the front of the truck on for now. This puts it at ride height.

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It’s still pretty low. With a 21” belly, the roof is at 70”.
 

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