Turbo truggy

[mavereq]

Started working on my strut mounts today. I’m building them this way so I can make the vertical bars clear the turbo on the passenger side and the brake booster on the driver’s side. The two sides were going to be drastically different. This way at least the tops of the hoops will have some symmetry. These hoops just fit under the hood. The shock tabs and tops of the struts are going to stick out. I just need to put some vertical bars and shock tabs on and the front suspension is mostly done.

I played around with seat location a bit. I’m going to have to mount the seat 1” to the left of the steering wheel center so I can clear the transfer case. It’s tight in there.

 

[deathbypsi]

Will the two shocks be linked to each other? On my truggy I mounted my hoops traditionally and had to make a bolt in bridge between them to stop the flexing

 

[mavereq]

Will the two shocks be linked to each other? On my truggy I mounted my hoops traditionally and had to make a bolt in bridge between them to stop the flexing

There will be horizontal bars running through the firewall to the dash bar, vertical bars running forward to the core support, and two vertical bars to the frame (triangulated). I can add a removable cross bar later, but I don’t think this will need it.

 

[mavereq]

Finally got the upper strut mounts built. They took way longer than they should have.

Still a lot left to do up front. I need to weld in at least one vertical bar on each side before I put the struts in and let the vehicle weight rest on the bump stops.

Once that’s done, I can get started on the steering ram mount.

 

[deathbypsi]

Those are bad ass!

 

[mavereq]

Thanks. There are some minor differences between the sides, but the actual strut location is good.

 

[bobbywalter]

stout!


and look great.


the cage area in the engine looks tight from the pics, I would have been been tempted do do a much wider rail setup with full widths on the agenda to make engine maint a breeze. hell make every bit of maint a breeze.






makes me want to run out in the garage and build a new frame.

 

[mavereq]

stout!


and look great.


the cage area in the engine looks tight from the pics, I would have been been tempted do do a much wider rail setup with full widths on the agenda to make engine maint a breeze. hell make every bit of maint a breeze.






makes me want to run out in the garage and build a new frame.

I wasn’t sure how wide I could go without interference with the struts. I played it safe.

 

[PNW_Outdoors]

Got started on the frame tonight. Compound miter cuts are a pain, but this should give me plenty of room to fit a 4 link up front and have lots of up travel.

Really like what you did here, got any dimensions on this? I see it bends up and in

 

[mavereq]

I’ll see if I have the angles written down anywhere. I’d cut them a little less sharp if I built another one.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Bad Ass Build

 

[mavereq]

Bad Ass Build

Thanks. It definitely snowballed.

 

[mavereq]

Haven’t gotten too much done since my last update. I welded a down-bar between the strut mount and frame on both sides, installed the ORIs, and set the front axle on jackstands. This is a pretty big deal for me, but anticlimactic for most.

This is what it sits like when it’s on the bumpstops. It was a pain to get it packaged, but this thing can get low.

And I had to set a tire there for effect. The tire is about 2” lower than if it was installed. I’m not going to have much fender left after I trim them.

 

[mavereq]

As you can see, there are some fitment issues. I can’t point the outlet upwards because of hood clearance. I have a front outlet compressor cover on the way. Another option would be to build a new header. I really like this header though.

 

[bobbywalter]

build an adapter pipe.