Truck will not Start or starts Intermittently

[SRD]

sorry link: (52) Voltage Drop Test - YouTube

 

[Brain75]

Link didn't come through but those values are all correct, you aren't getting any volts on neg to neg (or pos to pos) cause you are not completing the circuit.
1) did you check all the cable connections are tight?
first unhook the ground cable from the battery - this is in case you have a loose wire, when you pull it (a loose cable) out it doesn't brush up against the fender/etc and cause a big nasty short.

at each of these steps you are examining both ends of the cable and checking the connector as well as the connector's connection to terminal

Battery + to clamp (check the clamp is tight, no corrosion)
Battery + clamp to Solenoid 1st large terminal (check both ends even if the connector is a molded/soldered factory and not a aftermarket bolt together - wiggle the cable and look for loose)
Solenoid (2nd large terminal) to starter (so each end of the cable)

Battery - clamp to Frame (ground)
Frame to engine (ground)
hookup the negative terminal again and then :
Battery - to clamp (check the clamp is tight, no corrosion)

2) lets go through a real "do I have power at all the points" test.
using a voltmeter set to DC voltage test the following 2 points
a) battery post to post - should have full volts
b) battery neg POST with the first solenoid post (the one connected to battery +) - should have full volts,if you get the wrong post you will get 0 volts (the one connected to starter)
c) battery pos POST with random spot on frame, someplace with no paint or rust. - should have full volts
d) battery pos POST with engine block - should have full volts (again find someplace with no paint/rust)
e) if you have a friend, battery neg POST and the 2nd solenoid post (the starter cable side) WHILE they are cranking/in start position.
as long as the key is in any position except crank that solenoid post should be 0v, in crank it should be full volts.

This is the safer way to check the solenoid, if you never get power to that 2nd post on the solenoid it is probably the solenoid.

 

[Brain75]

f) from ground to starter terminal - again as long as key is in any position except crank you should get 0 volts, during crank full volts.
(ideally it would be a test from neg post to starter but routing the voltmeter cables around and not getting em caught in the fan etc is not worth it, just use ground)

 

[SRD]

Thanks for the outline. I have started to fill in the blanks; looking to enlist help to get all #’s....So far here is where I am at...will send the final version once I have help.I just want to make sure the info and format are good...never done this before so taking it all I;n as I know you’re really advanced thanks for your patience.

Info:

A). 12.6 V in DC

B). Little lost, but trying to figure it out. Will get it when help comes.

C.) Here it “Bounced” a little bit but eventually stopped at 12.64V when on a bolt on the main frame.

D.) Here, I might be doing it incorrect. I got between 30-48V? in DC? depending where I put the NEG Probe on block.

E.) Waiting on help: Not sure of all locations of stuff as I am pretty new to this type of troubleshooting so digesting as fast as possible.

F.) Waiting on Help...

*Thanks for walking me through this....the education is appreciated. Will keep working on it for #’s......

SRD

 

[RobbieD]

the first place to check would be tight connections - battery terminals,

Assuming you cleaned the battery connections real well?

Pardon my asking, but I'm not seeing it listed in what you have done, and tried.

> Did you remove both battery cables from the battery, and clean both of the cable terminal ends and the battery posts, with a battery terminal cleaning brush?

>> While the cables are disconnected, look at the cables carefully, and flex the last inch or two while you listen and feel. Cables can rot on the inside, with cruddy green corrosion, yet "look" fine on the outside unless you know to examine the cable carefully. Such a cable will feel "crunchy" instead of smooth when you flex it.

Your symptoms are classic for weak and/or bad connection in the main cables, and if it is it's usually close to the battery terminals (as it is a very caustic area).

And I ask, because many a time I've chased my tail on an electrical evil, and it turned out to be something stupid simple, yet easy to overlook in the heat of the chase. It's just best practice to do the due diligence to rule out a failure in the cable(s) or terminals at the battery before diving in deeper.

You will get it sorted out; Good Luck!

 

[SRD]

Yes. So far I have done the following:

1. Changed Purge Valve

2. Removed Battery Cables and cleaned the post with a wire brush and baking soda. I did not open clamps and clean that I will try that in AM to be more complete.

3. Changed the Ignition Relay Switch under the dash

4. Checked Post to Post Volts drop test etc...working on that list still.

*Thanks for the input.
SRD

 

[SRD]

Ok, I got her fixed!

I got under the dash and tightened up the steering column shifter and it started right up! I read if this is lose it can not start as the PCM does not know it is in park or neutral I guess?? So, I tried it...and VROOOOM!

Always learning new stuff...I appreciate all the guidance and support.

Thanks
SRD

 

[RobbieD]

Congratulations; good job!

 

[nickname23]

Hello. Thanks for reading my post.

*I have a 1999 Ranger XLT 3.0. I have issues with the truck starting from time to time. Symptoms are I turn the key and nothing; no sound, no crank, no anything just dead. Then after a few min usually between 5-15 min. it will start normal again. I have had this issue for some time and it has happened with and without check engine lights.

*Now, I have to wait sometimes hours until she starts again. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
SRD

Did you check the Fuel Shutoff switch?

You might have jostled the truck while driving and the switch could be getting faulty.

Passenger Side floorboard, towards firewall it's mounted, red button press and hold for 10 seconds.

Usually I rip it out and splice the wires.