Truck will not Start or starts Intermittently

[SRD]

Hello. Thanks for reading my post.

*I have a 1999 Ranger XLT 3.0. I have issues with the truck starting from time to time. Symptoms are I turn the key and nothing; no sound, no crank, no anything just dead. Then after a few min usually between 5-15 min. it will start normal again. I have had this issue for some time and it has happened with and without check engine lights.

*Now, I have to wait sometimes hours until she starts again. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
SRD

 

[Brain75]

With the older girls if you had intermittent no start (especially with no crank, no sound, nothing - that is usually bad ground) the first place to check would be tight connections - battery terminals, ground, solenoid, starter etc... With the new computers then that can play into it as well. This is where I bow to the masters of the electronics... I may be a computer programmer but I have no real experience diagnosing car's computer wizardry... Start with all the big power cable connections while you wait for the computer guru's to chime in.

 

[SRD]

Thanks for your Reply.

I did hook up a NOCO GB 150 and it said the battery had 12.7 V. I tried to swap the relays for the PCM etc... the same symptom, still no start. I do hear a Relay "Click" when key is turned on.

Looked at Fuses. The PCM 25 tested good for continuity. Though the leg was really ugly.....looks like it did get hot but working.

From here not sure how to proceed from here.....

Thanks.
SRD

 

[4.0blue98]

Have you tried to jump start when you have the no start? might want to have the battery load tested.

 

[SRD]

Yes, I used the NOCO GB 150 Jump anything...no jump possible. Turn Key dead period. This has happened 10,000 times but always re-starts until now.

Thanks,
SRD

 

[Brain75]

Even if you have the stuff to jump it you might try checking voltage at different stages:
after it has sat before you try to start it or any other diagnosis see what the voltage is.
immediately after trying to start it check the voltage.
If the battery drops a whole lot like you have 12.7 before and 11.7 after then that battery is probably not even needing a load test, just a replace.

Just some FYI:
a fully charged brand new battery should read 13.8v
anything over 12.eh... 12.5 or 12.6 should still start a vehicle...
oddly enough a 12.0v is a "dead battery" - you might get a start off a low compression or a worn out with sloppy rings, etc - something the starter doesn't have to work hard on.

I didn't suggest a jump right off, cause 12.7 should still behave normally.

With a good alternator I have seen anywhere from 13.8 - 14.6v while running.
you can also do a cell to cell voltage test to check for weak cells (each cell should be 2.3v), even the sealed batteries have removable caps.

All that finger pointing at the battery though is not my hunch, I am still thinking bad connection somewhere - loose cable on the starter, loose ground, etc... start by unhooking the battery and checking every connection on the big 2ga wires everywhere, including the engine to frame strap.

All my experience with computer stuff they still crank and act like they want to start which is why I'm not leaning computer.

The one question nobody has asked that I just thought of, do you have an aftermarket security system with a kill switch function - something that cuts power when it thinks it is stolen or violated.

 

[SRD]

I removed the after market security years ago...been normal ever since. Just my PATS...

*One thing is the 4 stages when you turn the key.....although it does not crank or start; the very last small turn brings up the Brake light on the dash....goes back off once you turn the key back. Maybe this helps....

*

 

[4.0blue98]

Starter connection or failing starter does sound like a possibility. Does the fuel pump run briefly when you turn the key to the on position? Might be your ignition switch.

 

[Brain75]

I removed the after market security years ago...been normal ever since. Just my PATS...

*One thing is the 4 stages when you turn the key.....although it does not crank or start; the very last small turn brings up the Brake light on the dash....goes back off once you turn the key back. Maybe this helps....

*

I wont clog this thread with m own woes, but remind me to ask you all the steps to get rid of the aftermarket security - the P.O. of the '07 I wrench on did that and I have been asked to remove the security system.

 

[SRD]

Ok, I replaced the ignition switch just now; had an extra.....still same issue.

*I had someone else remove the security module and re-wire it back to the original. The truck has ran fine ever since up until now....this was three years ago.....

*

 

[4.0blue98]

Starter? Still have the original in my 98 but maybe yours is failing? Otherwise seems like a bad connection in that pathway. Assuming you cleaned the battery connections real well?

 

[SRD]

I watched a Video and did a "Voltage Drop" test on the battery. When running the cables from Post to Post I get 12.6V. When I run the cables from Post to clamp I get 0.00V.....as far as I was able to take it with what I know.

I am not very educated on Voltages and testing but am looking for how to test the wires on the starter system.

*I will read up on how to test the starter.......any suggestions always help.

Thanks.
SRD

 

[Brain75]

Could you post a link to that video on a voltage drop test, knowing their methods will stop me from just guessing blindly.
If you get 0v when going from positive post to negative clamp, that means there is an open somewhere in there - i.e. between the post and clamp. Severely corroded terminal, sloppy loose clamp?
If you are getting 0v when going from negative post to negative clamp that is normal - you only get voltage when closing a complete circuit all the way around from + to -

In all the years of driving and wrenching I have never had a solenoid go bad except cracking and falling completely apart with age, but if it is a separate solenoid I would bypass the solenoid just to see if it cranks.

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BTW, this bypasses all safety of the neutral switch etc - you are connecting power directly to the starter eliminating the solenoid and all other factors, so be sure you are in park/neutral and all the other safety stuff... don't run yourself over with your own truck.

You are TEMPORARILY bridging the largest 2 terminals on the solenoid - I found this pic of a 1999 solenoid, it only has 2 large terminals.

https://i0.wp.com/s3.amazonaws.com/f01.justanswer.com/kybaker/2007-08-25_121250_IMG_1650.JPG?w=1000

If it doesn't even crank I would say continue your troubleshooting down to the starter, if it cranks as long as the circuit is closed then get yourself a new solenoid.

 

[Brain75]

Additional comments on safety. You notice this guy uses a good screwdriver with an insulated handle, not some old cracked thing or uninsulated handle. He does not hold onto the fender while doing this, etc. You don't want to complete the circuit through yourself. If the solenoid position is such you can't use a screwdriver a big pair of water pump pliers with insulated handles has been my go to.

 

[SRD]

Ok, here is the link I watched to do the drop voltage test.

*I did post to post got 12.7v.
*I did Neg Post to Neg clamp got 0.00V
*I did Pos Post to Pos clamp...got 0.00v....

*Never done the test before so can't say I know anything.

*I am going to watch the video for trying to start this thing and take this in a bit... a little scared as I am kind of slow; I would def do something retarded and hold onto something or make a small error....I know me.

Thanks for helping me walk through this issue.....your time is appreciated.

SRD