troubles with 89 ranger

[Tseter]

Greetings and warning this may be a huge post but i will try to explain what has happened in detail .

I got a truck from a guy in Grand Junction with a trailer the year before last for $1000. the truck was out in the mid east back in the Mag chloride days and its a rusty bucket. It is a 2WD fuel injected 4 banger with a 5 speed manual transmission.

I just got myself a job delivering newspapers and during last nights (this morning) devilry my truck starting to miss really bad. It lost a lot of power and starting to ping or knock not 100% sure. At first I was fearful that it blew. But the more I drove it was just feeling like I lost a cylinder. and smelled an extra gas from the exhaust. I got it home parked it and then later today I drove it over to a nearby mechanic and he said it was missing. And suggested to check the plugs.

Soo off i go to autozone and picked up new plugs and plug wires to replace the plantum 2's that were in there i picked up the motor-craft and gaped them and then fought to replace the driver side plugs. I finished that and started up the truck still no good. still bad idle. So i think thought maybe i'll go to auto zone and see if i was lucky enough to have then code read it.

I slammed shut the hood so it would latch and then tried to start up the truck and it began to run so bad it would not even idle proper and if i gave it gas it would simple die.

I have replaced the following since i get this truck; Plugs wires, Spark plugs, Brake Master Cylinder, and Passenger brake line. What would be causing this and what is the best way to fix it. I will note that I do not have a lot of tools to check things due to former roommate and family member's sticky fingers and pawning to get money for drugs. Nor do I have a lot of money to get replacements.

As stated in my introductions I live in the Denver Colorado area and If you are able to come over and help this weekend and get it running once more I'll do my best to repay you back as best I can. Or if you have a vehicle sitting around that is legal that I can use to deliver the papers for my job.

thanks in advanced
Tseter

 

[Tseter]

No suggestions as to what is going on?

I really need to get this truck running once more, I am currently using my roommates Fathers truck till Monday I need to get this fixed asap without using a ton of money.

Even if its just suggestions as to what it might be, i can look into them .

Is it possible that I could have blown a head gasket and not lose oil, or anti-freeze? Aka the air from numbers 2 and 3 just passing back and forth?

Or if you need more info about a certain spot or something.

 

[Mark_88]

An 89 that runs rough...unless you were pounding the poor engine I doubt that a head gasket would blow sporadically, so it's probably something simple.

Did you actually get to pull the codes or is that in the works? That is a good place to start. I would advise against further part swapping since it is very expensive and usually doesn't fix the problem without good diagnostics.

Could be something as simple as a fuel filter needing replaced, but you will need to do some basic testing. Like the fuel pressure. Missing engines usually miss either because of lack of spark or lack of fuel...or lack of air...so check the air filter first...if it appears really dirty then you may want to change that...but an engine will usually run fine with a plugged air filter...just burns more gas than it should.

You mentioned you smelled fuel so that could mean that your spark is missing...coil packs are expensive but can be tested...and if they don't meet the basics then they may need replacing...what controls the coil packs is the computer and it depends on sensors to control things...you probably have a MAP sensor but it would not give you those symptoms...so it could be an 02 sensor...but pulling the codes would tell you that in fairly specific terms.

So if you don't get any codes...then the part swapping becomes a natural choice...but don't go there yet...pull the codes before you spend another dime on parts!

 

[Tseter]

what is the easiest way to pull the codes? I and new to a ranger and used to wrenching on my 85 Toyota, and not the Ranger as its a newer vehicle in terms of ownership. I was forced to sell off my Toyota for parts to a junk yard, due to knocking oil leaking engine, and unable to save up to get fixed..

 

[scotts90ranger]

to pull codes, go HERE and follow the analog volt meter method just skip the volt meter, short the two indicated pins (the diagnostic connector is just behind the "Power Distribution" block on the passenger side of your engine compartment. From there, grab a pen and paper, sit in the drivers seat and turn the key on and watch the check engine light flash and match them to the codes on the link above, post them here...

Other than that, it sounds like you are getting too much fuel, find the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, take the vacuum hose off of it and turn the key on, if there is any fuel there the regulator is bad. That's the only thing that comes to mind... Also, after you pull the codes disconnect the negative battery cable, touch it to the positive post then reconnect it, this will reset the computer, if it runs better there is most likely a fuel metering problem which would mean an exhaust leak before the oxygen sensor (if that's the case it would be a cracked manifold most likely) or a bad oxygen sensor.

I'm with Mark, do more diagnostics and don't throw parts at it, I'll try to keep checking in to help out as that's the system I'm most familiar with...

 

[Tseter]

Ok I pulled the vacuum line off the FPR and it was no change, runs like crap and dies. Plugged the vacuum line and it died quickly, put it back on and it ran like crap and died.
ok the person that had this truck before me wire tied the stupid connecters into an hard to spot/reach spot i got it after cutting up my wrist a bit the codes i got are as follows.

14, 18, 32, and 88

Acording to the list o codes it is something like;
Ignition pickup was erratic - Ignition Systems
E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor - Diesel RPM sensor
(R) Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests
(M) Ignition TACH signal erratic - Ignition Systems
EVP - (R) EGR not responding properly during test - EVP
EVR - (O, R, M) EVP signal is/was low - EVR
PFE - (R, M) PFE shows low pressure, EGR not seating or memory, not seating intermittently - PFE
Throttle Kicker Solenoid - Solenoids
Variable Voltage Choke relay circuit fault - VVC
Fan Control circuit fault - A/C and Fan Circuits
A4LD - Converter Clutch Override solenoid - Transmissions
Electronic Ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault - Ignition Systems

i just copyed pasted all of each code as to help get the right one. This was engine off, since the stupid thing does not run at all any more.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've had a busy weekend, sorry. You have an ignition system issue, ignore the EGR code, that's not the problem that you are fighting right now. I've had a bad crank sensor and it didn't do what you are seeing, take the ignition module to the auto parts store so they can test it as I would suspect that as it's what the crank sensor goes to and what could cause all of the problems... If you were closer I would hand you one of my spare modules as I have 2 spares...

 

[Tseter]

... sniped ... If you were closer I would hand you one of my spare modules as I have 2 spares...

I wish I was closer that is a $180 part according to Auto zones web site. Would a normal repair shop also have access to the test gear needed to check or would it only be the part store?

Roommate keep getting one me about having "there" family mechanic come out and take a look at it. I however do not think this is the sort of guy that make house calls to sick vehicles. But is more like the ER were you have to take it to them .

I'll pull it off once I get some rest, been up all night throwing newspapers for my job that I NEED this truck for. Anyways I'll let you know what they tests bring up and keep this up to date.

 

[Tseter]

took off the Ign mod and had it tested, the person that did the testing said that it was popping and snapping making all sorts of noise. It was the frist one to do such things. Soo off i go to try and find a used ( and good) part from the junk yards around town. *sighs* I hate how expense the smaller parts are.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The DIS module was used on '89 to '95(I think they switched to EDIS without the module in '96) Rangers with the 2.3L and '91 on in Mustangs with the 2.3L, my spares are junkyard versions as I knew they were expensive at the parts stores...

 

[Tseter]

I got the part thanks to scotts90ranger, Put it on and went to crank it and nothing The battery started to get low from the cranking and now even with it jumped the starter is making a noise as if its skipping gears.

I tried to push start it a few times and not good. Today I took the codes and guess what 14, 18, 32, and 88 again. Once the local auto zone opens I'm going to go have it tested.

Scott, do you know if it was a good part to begin with and my truck toasted it or if it was just a junk yard lemon?

P.S. The unit tested 1 of 3 lights bad were as the other one tested 3 of 3 lights right away so not sure if bad unit or if it was fried. But i am leaning to bad unit more that anything, should have tested it before i put it on ... *sighs*
Tseter

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'm pretty sure I sent the one I was running on my truck before I changed it, module wasn't my problem, so in the spare box it went.

That's a pretty simple ignition system, I'm not sure what is going on, mine is hacked up and working fine... I'll think about what is going on some more and try to come up with something, the only ideas I have are maybe a shorted crank sensor (another $150ish part, I don't have any spares of those...) as I've had one go bad on me before. I wish there were still guys on here that knew these things (like DaveR and George) like the back of their hands, I only have knowledge from experience and working on GM's for the last 6.5 years...

 

[Mark_88]

ok the person that had this truck before me wire tied the stupid connecters...

This may be part of your problem...do you have pics of this? Not that wire tying is such a bad thing, as it keeps wires out of the way, but what else happened to the wiring? Could be a cut or open sheath on a wire that is causing it to short.

I'm thinking the unit Scott sent you was good and that the current wiring or some mod has possibly done some wire damage that would cause it to blow out something (or many things) due to shorts or crossed wires.

And something that was overlooked I think...when you pulled the vac line off the FPR, did you smell it to see if there was gas in the vac line????

That is a simple test to tell if the FPR diaphram is leaking...which causes loss of fuel pressure and the truck simply won't run properly if at all.

 

[4b316]

Make sure you have a good ground on the module.It only grounds in the upper left hand screw hole.This has to be clean and a good screw hole.

 

[Tseter]

Make sure you have a good ground on the module.It only grounds in the upper left hand screw hole.This has to be clean and a good screw hole.

I think that might be the trouble also, I only have 2 screws, and I put them into the top right and bottom left holes. As for the wires I looked at them and find no cuts, breaks or anything that exposed the wire.

I really need to get this dang thing running again My roommates family is starting to get pissy and asking and bugging my roommate about when I will give them back there truck. I CAN give it back but then I lose my job due to not having a running vehicle. I "SHOULD" get paid this Saturday or Tuesday for sure and off to the shop it will go to get someone to look at it if i am unable to get it fixed.