Hope it works, let us know how it goes and any issues you run into. Might do a tech article, could help others in the same situation.
Sorry if I came over like a jerk...think your post had a bad reaction with my beer. Lol.
Well, I do have updates. I went to pull-a-part and snagged a crossmember off a 1994 B3000. Oddly it seems that some of the 94's had the bushings too. Not this one. Hell, I think it may have been the only RWD 3.0 on the lot (I was needing an alternator bracket, so that was an easy win).
The truck had a manual transmission and also had a lot of the front engine/intake stuff removed along with the cat. First, I removed the shift lever and boot and also yanked the driveshaft. Then, I removed the mount-to-crossmember nuts. After that, I removed the three nuts holding the cross member and tapped the flag bolts through the frame, which made the tranny/engine drop. From there, dodging the dripping tranny fluid (not a lot), I tilted the engine/transmission assembly forward which allowed the crossmember to fall free. There still is the radius arm brackets under the assembly; the manual also probably weighs a lot less than an A4LD so I felt a bit better leaving the truck like that.
I checked, no forklift damage. Based on the rim stands being right against the crossmember, it's safe to say the forks never touched it.
These crossmembers are a hot commodity as half of the one trucks were missing them. Exploders included.
I will have to remove one of the old brackets from my truck as the passenger's side uses 2 of the 3 rivet holes for bolts. The drivers side can stay but for aesthetics, I'll remove it as well.
This means I'll be shipping the new crossmember from ebay back. I may at least open the box and measure it against the 1994 crossmember.
I also bought the transmission mount spec'd for the 1994 3.0 RWD Automatic, which is different. I bough a duralast one, which uses the same part numbers as Anchor. The 1995 one is 2666, the 1994 one is 2639. Since the applications of the two appear (from a rough look) to correspond with the two types of crossmember, my hope is that swapping the crossmember and mount as a set will result in a result in no major vibration issues.
While I was at it, in addition to swiping the alternator bracket (mine is stripped and $5 at PAP beats $30 for metric helicoil), I also nabbed the rear stabilizer bar, a feature my Ranger is missing. I got the bar, bushings, U-bolts, and link-to-bar nuts. I wasn't able to drop the gas tank so no luck on the links. The link bushings were kinda shot anyway, so I figure I'll (in time) get new links and then install the upgrade.