Torsion Bar Travel

[84projectFORD]

I still am having trouble understanding why the Dixon kit says it has 14" of travel when it is set up for an 8" shock.

One more thing I want to ask. Can I run the fabtech upper control arm? I only ask because this control arm won't increase track width. Can it be bolted to the torsion bar spindle? What are the differences between the two spindle types?...btw I was going to run a 2.0 coilover with 2.5" coils. I figured the 3" would be too big, thanks for the reassurance to my thinking guys.

the shock travel is not where you find your wheel travel. dixon bros measures wheel travel from the end of the spindle and then cycles it to show how much travel they have. so basically from the very end of the your spindle you take a measurement from droop, then push the suspension all the way up to full bump and measure again. that gives you wha tkind of travel your truck has.

Yes you can run the UCA from fabtech. that should be no big deal and probably give you a bit more travel from the stock arms. The difference between spindles is the ones from dixon bros is made for the more travel to give you next to nothing for bumpsteer and very minimum camber change. You may notice more bumpsteer and drastic camber change with the stock setup when you cycle it from full bump to full droop but im not sure, the fabtech UCA may make it better or worse.

 

[RangerRocker]

PERFECT!!! Thanks for your help guys. I would have been going at this totally blind if it wasn't for you guys. I really appreciate the assistance. Once I get it all set up we should go out for a run.

 

[RangerRocker]

Ok, now I have more questions...man this must be tiring for you guys, haha. How should the engine cage be mounted, bolt on or welded? I figure bolt on in case I have to engine work. And, should I run a resivoir shock or just an emulsion type shock? Money won't a prob for this part. I would like it done right. Also, how do I know if the shock is properly valved? Can I take somewhere who will valve it correctly?

 

[bmxryder]

it doesn't really matter too much on if the engine cage is bolt in or weld as long as its made right. but you are going to want the cross member that goes over the motor to be removable.

i didn't read everything you wrote but you sounded like you want to mix kits. that doesn't sound like the best idea since most kits are made to work as one.

and for valving its pretty much just trial and error. most big name shock companys give you one free re-valving, and you have to go from there.

 

[84projectFORD]

haha it is absolutly no problem. I love this kind of sport and love to fabricate so any time i can help someone i hop on it. Im just glad i can spread my knowledge along.

Ok, definitely bolt in your crossmember/engine cage just in case you do need to some sort of engine work. As for the shocks, a resivoir coilover is your best bet, specially if you will be in the desert alot. I dont think it really even cost that much more to put resivoirs on. For valving, the only way you will know is when you take it out and run it in some rough stuff in the desert. you wont really notice it onthe streets but once you hit stuff that really works the suspension you will be able to tell. The best way to setup your valving is to find a good rough/whoop section and have a buddy video you going through that stuff and then take it to a place that does that can revlave shocks. they can usually tell by the videos what needs to be changed in the shock. I know two different places in phoenix that can do the valving in your shocks so when you get to that point ill help ya out there.

EDIT: i know three places lol

 

[RangerRocker]

Sweet thanks '84. FOA talks about compression and rebound valves when purchasing a shock. The choices range from extra light to extra firm. What should I choose for that?

 

[Quasi242]

Check out the valving calculator on the F-O-A site. That should get you close. If you still have questions, I would give them a call since they are the most familiar with their product. Valving is tricky. I set my shocks up per the shock manufacturer's recommendations when I installed my kit. I am now starting to play with it to dial it in.

For King shocks, you go by shim stacks. FYI, I am currently running a 0.15 compression stack (no flutter shim), 0.12 rebound stack, and have all three free flow ports open. In general the ride feels good on dirt, but it does not handle washboards very well at all.

Also, I agree on the reservoir comment. A reservoir shock allows a greater volume of oil and is supposed to better manage heat and shock fade.

Good luck, figuring this stuff out is part of the fun.