Tired of new vehicles. Should I sell me Ranger?


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damn, makes me want to repair & drive the '82 VW diesel that's rotting in the garage.
being an old style diesel I can jam a rod into the injector pump then push start it.

unfortunately the soot trail behind it would serve as a tracking device.

ya just can't win
 
Jim basically has two problems. The truck has 94,000 miles and the payment is $570/month.
So by the time it's paid off it will have 150,000 miles on it. And time for a new one.
If a vehicle is well-cared for it should get to 200,000 miles or more. I got to 212,000 on my old Sport Trac with a rebuilt transmission at 132,000 but the last two years I owned it I spent a lot of money on repairs and getting it to pass inspection and emissions. The blown head gasket was the last straw and I said no more, I'm done.
The thing with Jim's truck is that all the mods and money put into it don't really make it worth any more so I'm thinking you might as well keep it unless you want to try your luck at Barrett-Jackson or the For Sale Corral at Carlisle.

I'd be lucky to break even at a dealer, but KBB says it's worth more than I owe if I sell it myself. The lift, wheels, grill guard, sliders, winch, bed rack, and toolbox with my onboard air, DC/DC charger and Lithium battery don't really add to the value, but they might make it more appealing and make someone feel like they're getting a good deal. I could actually remove the winch, rack, onboard air, and aux battery setup. Remove my decals and slap a new FX4 decal on there and sell it. Add the air, winch, and battery setup to my next vehicle.

The advantage to Texas is that I can find older vehicles that are solid with maybe some surface rust if the paint has worn off. The clearcoat has started failing on my 2005 Jag, but it doesn't have any rust on it anywhere. I bought that thing a few years ago for $3,500. About the cost of 10R80 rebuild if I take the transmission in to them.

Heck, I saw a 1984 Bronco II on Marketplace with a Duraspark conversion, C5 automatic, and working A/C for $3,700 and "Flexible on price for the right buyer". Even has the opening rear window in the hatch that is a must have if I bought a Bronco II. I don't have $3,700, but if I had to borrow the money that would 6.5 months of my current truck payment and then I'd be payment free with an extra $570 a month for repairs and mods.


I feel like I should drive my car more to keep mileage off of TRS-3, fix up TRS-2, and then consider selling TRS-3 once I feel TRS-2 is reliable and I don't need TRS-3 to haul stuff I need for TRS-2 (why does that sound confusing?).

I don't know. We'll see.
 
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damn, makes me want to repair & drive the '82 VW diesel that's rotting in the garage.
being an old style diesel I can jam a rod into the injector pump then push start it.

unfortunately the soot trail behind it would serve as a tracking device.

ya just can't win

Just put an amber light on the roof and a sign on the side that says 'Mosquito Control'.
 
Why do phones always end up being brought up in these types of threads?
Your phone normally does not send vehicle & personal driving data to your vehicle's mfgr that could potentially be sold off by them to your insurance co. or whoever else they might choose (that is unless you install your vehicle's app or your ins. carrier's app on it)

I also think (would hope anyway) a majority of people aware of (and not wanting) their vehicle tracking them are also aware of their phone's tracking capabilities too, and so have turned off Location, Bluetooth, and perhaps Data in their phone's settings if they have such concerns about it (maybe even NFC & Wi-Fi as well, though I don't see those as as much concern since you have to be like an inch or something away for NFC to pass any data, and Wi-Fi requires you actively connect to and log into a system or router terminal somewhere). They only turn these on when they need to actually use them.
With all those off, your phone can at most be traced to being within the vicinity of the nearest cell tower it last pinged (a rather coarse metric about a half-mile at the minimum). Don't want that? Turn it completely off.

A side benefit: Your phone's battery lasts MUCH longer per charge with all those radios turned off too.

AFAIK, disabling the telematics system will void the warranty and in some cases is illegal. Newer vehicle purchase agreements specify that you're the user, not the owner. Now, that agreement currently doesn't apply to used vehicles, so if you're not the original purchaser you're in the clear.
Do you have an example?
Our last new vehicle purchase was in 2020 (a time when these systems were already prevalent), there is zero anything about disabling a telematics system on the papers we signed... Infact, we were even given the option by the dealer to not activate the system at all (though I don't trust that the system truly isn't active and transmitting data in such cases). If the system isn't activated, it should be neither here nor there if it's been disabled.
If such clause existed, I also think it would be worded such that it would apply to a second owner too.

I read an article about a 2026 Ranger where the owner disabled the telematics. after an update from FORD the telematics had been restored !!!!!!
the average owner cant win :mad:
So if they put a fuse back in it, pull it out again (this only can happen with the truck physically at a dealer, it simply cannot happen if the system is disabled since a disabled systems cannot get OTA updates at all).

everyone should be aware that any device with a cellular baseband chip in it will be communicating with every cell tower it passes (they can and do triangulate your position - SOS calls) regardless of whether there's a SIM in it or not (unless you can actually physically kill the power to the chip). That's just how cell radios work. No question the companies that run the towers are collecting that data. What they might do with it, that's up to you to decide. I have my ideas. :LOL:
SIM chip has your vehicle's ID on it... Without that, it's just an anonymous signal. But pulling the fuse eliminates that too.
 
The lift, wheels, grill guard, sliders, winch, bed rack, and toolbox with my onboard air, DC/DC charger and Lithium battery don't really add to the value
They actually can devalue it to some extent for the average buyer. For sure you'd have to find the right buyer who actually wants that stuff to get a good return on it.
Removing them (and their evidence where possible) will often get you more $$$ back for your truck, and then you can either use those items on a new ride, or sell them separately yourself.
 
Hmmm. I wonder who the guy dropping 6k on a new transmission is? Haha. I truly feel your dilemma. When my transmission first started acting up I thought about the same thing. Then I thought I would be honest when I sold it and really didn't want to pass the problem on. So that left me with dealership trade in. I set for days before the fall campout (being the teans was acting great at the time) looking at Rangers on Autotrader. Found a 2011 4.0 4x4 with 126k. I even sent an inquiry. Well after sleeping on it. I really like my 2020. Even though I've beat the piss out of the body. I do all the maintenance on my schedule (not Fords) and try and keep it reliable. This is the most comfortable vehicle I've ever owned haha. I remember as well how hard it was getting to find parts for my 05 Sport Trac at the end. I also only have a few payments left. Should be mine early next year. I'm not worried about the milage because I will drive it till it can't go no more. Besides the whole under side has been replaced almost haha. But I do see where your coming from. A first Gen Explorer or a TTB Ranger could be a lot more capable and easier and more affordable to repair. Plus have room to sleep in the back. My situation with the truck almost paid off influenced my decision quite a bit. Didn't want to start over in payments.
 

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