Tips on starting an engine( 4.0l) that hasnt been started in 20 years

[piedrarock]

I ve looked through countless posts under different threads , looking for some kind of discussion on finally getting around to starting that engine in that project car that you started years and years ago , but I havent found much .
maybe this post will attract some attention and hopefully some advice .
Engine has always been in closed garage , and always turned manually a couple times a year.
Is there some type of ritual done a few days or week ahead of firing , like removing plugs and adding something ?
Is there a "special " type of oil or additive added to the oil b4 firing that would help with potential loss of oil pressure due to seals shrinking etc ?
secondly , im guessing it would be a good idea to install aftermarket oil pressure gauge to monitor upon starting ( ive heard disconnect spark ) and just crank engine to check on oil pressure ) if no or really low pressure , what would next step be before hail mary of just starting it up and hoping for the best?
As always , thank you for your advice

 

[RonD]

Drain and put new oil in the engine and a new filter
You can pull spark plugs and put a teaspoon of oil down each cylinder, leave spark plugs out(use a straw, dip it in oil bottle, use finger at top to hold it in, then release it when in spark plug hole)

With new oil in pan and oil in cylinders crank engine over a few times, for 10 seconds each time(count to 10)
Then put spark plugs back in

Your fuel system will most likely be clogged up if the gasoline evaporated inside the fuel rail and injectors, but you will cross that bridge when it comes up

So have some gasoline in a spray bottle or Quick Start(ether) to spray into the engine to see if it starts up

If there was gas in that tank for more than 2 years you should drain as much as you can, siphon hose, then add 5 gal of Regular gas(the kind with 10% ethanol)
Ethanol helps absorb any water in the remaining fuel

Cycle key on and then off 3 or 4 times, that gets about 8 seconds of fuel pump run time
Spray in fuel and try to start it
Repeat a few times(spraying part) to see if it can run on its own

 

[SenorNoob]

All good advice. Every case is different. Just remember Fuel, Air, Spark, Compression, and Timing. Not necessarily in that order for engine to run.

 

[dvdswan]

There are also a lot of videos on this. Several gearhead shows have covered this topic several times.

 

[Shran]

I would completely clean out the fuel system before you even attempt it. I have not personally had this issue... but my buddy let his Bronco sit for a few years, the fuel was already quite old when it was parked and only got worse. It fired right up and ran OK but soon after we started having issues getting it started, then it developed a weird miss, which turned into a really bad miss and wouldn't even idle unless you held the gas pedal to the floor. Long story short, he ended up pulling the heads and found several bent valves. Had the heads redone and the machine shop said they see it a lot, the old fuel won't burn and basically hydrolocks the engine while it's running. Not good.

I did fire up an Explorer that had been sitting for about 10 years, I put a clean fuel tank in it before anything else...and it fired right up... but it sounded BAD. I thought it was hosed but after about a minute all the noise cleared up and it ran very well and continued to after that.

 

[09fx4guy]

All good advice here. If it were me, I would rather take my time and be a little more cautious.

If the engine spins free, I would pull the plugs and pour a little Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and let it work down the cylinders over a day or two. Then try turning the engine by hand to see how it spins. If it feels ok, put the plugs back it (assuming they are in good shape). If you can drain all of the old fuel, try and do it before you start the engine. Fresh gas will certainly work better than varnish.

 

[piedrarock]

Thank you all for your input, I will go to utube as well and see if they have any gearhead info.

I do have a ways to go before thinking to start engine ( prepping engine, adapting wiring harness to my Ghia ,getting new cv joints, as bus trany is type 2 , ghia type 1different bolts and spacing at opposite ends , etc etc ) and seeing as im hoping to use my stock vw gas tank( a fair bit of work ) connecting to engine ,
Im planning on buying 30 to 40 psi inline fuel pump which I will use in permanent fuel system connected to car ( but first use pump and fuel regulator valve in a "red neck gas tank") as they call it , with a new 5 gal pail as this gas tank will only take a lil time compared to final system . I will by a good fuel /brake line flaring kit as i i want to get away from depending on special tools to unlock and lock ford fuel system as I will be making my own fuel lines (Nicop tubing ) and down the road , new brake lines with Willwood proportioning valve master cylinder, disc brakes all around.

Also , at front end of the car , where the two engine support rails stop( steel rails will also carry coolant from engine in back to rad in front) and have been welded to adapt to 2 inch round steel ( front and back) from the 2 by 3 in stock, Im thinking just to connect tubes with soft 180 degree rubber hose to close cooling system as deciding on rad , mounting , elec fans will take some time and I would rather do that after I ve got car to turn key mode

Im looking fwd . to finally getting back and start working on my car( 1969 VW Karmann Ghia that I bought in 1986 , and was daily driver a year later( new engine , bodywork ,molded fiberglass flares with 225 /60 /14 tires on chevy 5 spoke chrommies, via vw to chevy adapter hubs , paint , eletrical , stereo etc , and a year or so after that , i took out vw engine to put in my baja bug , and thats when I thought , this car looks fast what can I do to make it go fast , and thats when I started thinking about engine adapter and water cooled engine .