Tips for changing clutch

[bduke23]

Ordered a whole bunch of parts from RockAuto the other day, got a great deal as always and I noticed on my email that it shipped within an hour of me placing the order! Some of what I ordered was a new clutch and slave cylinder, since my slave is very near to shot and its getting very difficuly to shift. I'm looking to get everything changed as quick as I can after it gets here, does anybody have any tips or things to look out for as I go through it? Any other things I should replace while I'm in there? I forgot to order an input shaft bearing, so I'll pick that up from a local store.

As I understand it, the procedure is:
- remove front and rear driveshaft
- remove t-case
- remove exhaust y pipe
- undo bell housing bolts
- drop tranny

Am I missing anything? I'm thinking I will also get a shop manual for all the torque specs and what not.

 

[RangerDanger]

I never remove the t-case... just leave it on the trans... makes it way easier, but i also do them on a hoist with a trans jack... but still possible to do it with with the t-case on with a jack, some 2X4's and straps and a friend.

Good luck on that Y-pipe bolts... thats always the worst part... A torch is always a good helper for trying to take the nuts off near the manifold without snapping the studs... if the studs do snap.. no biggy... just get a good drill and bits/center punch and drill the broken stud out and then just use bolts/nuts to re-attach it after.

also your missing removing the shifter (first thing i do)

and also you will have to have the little tool to remove the clutch line from the slave cylinder.. hopfully someone hasn't screwed up the little nylon sleeve that unlocks it. I had one that was totally missing the little nylon sleeve and oh man that was a pain... i got it out... but had to cut the shit out of the slave cylinder... and then it nicked the oring and retainer on the line... ended up replacing the whole line in the end..

Good luck!

 

[Eaglefixer]

You might want to go to the ford dealer and get new exhaust bolts and use anti-seize when putting it back together

 

[The_Dealer]

take the t-case off to install. leave it on to remove or u will be wearing trans fluid. also if u have a man t-case it makes it way easier to remove the t-case shifter so u dont fawk up your boot. alot of people undo the exhaust, i guess it depends on your vehicle, i didnt have to with my a4ld, but it looks like i might to put the 146 in. change your rear main wether it needs it or not. also put a jack stand or another jack witha block on it under the oil pan or u will be changing motor mounts in the future. i got to where i can drop mine in about an hour and a half

 

[wakingtowinter]

take the t-case off to install. leave it on to remove or u will be wearing trans fluid.

I guess it might be different for the FM146 and the A4LD but the tailhousing on the M5OD is dry, so it's okay to take the t-case off. I've done it that way whenever I've dropped mine.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Last clutch I did was in my F-150 on a neighbor's garage floor. Disconnected the driveshafts at the t-case side of things and tied them out of the way. Disconnected the shifters (trans and t-case - also where I discovered that my t-case shifter was missing a bushing and Ford discontinued those bushings a couple years back).

Disconnected the slave cyl line, removed the starter, pulled the bellhousing bolts, put a trans jack under the trans/tcase and removed the trans crossmember. Removed the trans and T-case as one unit by working it rearward and down. Hardest part was replacing the pilot bearing, that bugger didn't want to come out, ended up using a die grinder and a LOT of caution. But usually they're not that difficult to replace - some just fall out and I've been told that if it's stuck in there, you can fill the hole with grease and stick a dowel rod or something that is a close fit in the hole and whack it with a hammer.

When you put the new clutch in, be sure to use a clutch alignment tool. I made the mistake the first time I worked on a clutch of not doing that and couldn't figure out why it didn't seem to want to mate together right.

Resurface or replace your flywheel while you've got it apart.

The only time I disconnected my exhaust to play with a clutch was when I pulled the engine (the engine that was in the truck kept cracking heads so it got pulled in favor of putting another engine in).

 

[ifergusson]

If you are removing it with a floor jack one thing I like to do is run a couple of ratchet tie downs between the frame rails as a little extra insurance in case it falls off.Just keep loosening them as you drop it.They are also handy for lifting the transmission off the jack and onto the floor and vice versa.
I made a tool for removing the clutch line out of an old thin cheap wrench that I ground out to the right width.
If you don't have a manual you can get them at the library.Often times I work on vehicles that I don't have a manual for so I just get them at the library.I can even request them online and get them sent to the closest branch.
The tool I seem to find handiest is my stubby 13mm box end ratcheting wrench.
Some of the t-case and bellhousing bolts are a lot easier to reach if you undo the crossmember and lower the back of the transmission slightly.Don't go crazy though or you could damage the motor mounts.

 

[mhughes165]

If you are removing it with a floor jack one thing I like to do is run a couple of ratchet tie downs between the frame rails as a little extra insurance in case it falls off.Just keep loosening them as you drop it.They are also handy for lifting the transmission off the jack and onto the floor and vice versa.
I made a tool for removing the clutch line out of an old thin cheap wrench that I ground out to the right width.
If you don't have a manual you can get them at the library.Often times I work on vehicles that I don't have a manual for so I just get them at the library.I can even request them online and get them sent to the closest branch.
The tool I seem to find handiest is my stubby 13mm box end ratcheting wrench.
Some of the t-case and bellhousing bolts are a lot easier to reach if you undo the crossmember and lower the back of the transmission slightly.Don't go crazy though or you could damage the motor mounts.

the fm146 is lite enough that without the t-case installation WITH the exhaust still in that it should take no more then 5 minutes, if you y pipe doesnt leak dont touch it lol, if its already leaking on the other hand

 

[bduke23]

Ok looks like I missed a couple things, namely the starter (won't be an issue there) and disconnecting the shifters. For the t case, do I just disconnect it from where everything bolts to the side of the transmission? And is there a secret to taking out the trans shifter? I need my truck everyday, so I want to be sure I know this inside and out so I'm without a truck for as little time as possible. I will be doing it with a floor jack also.

How do I go about replacing the main seal? That is behind the flywheel correct?

And do I definately need to remove the y pipe then or no? Because I have this feeling that every single bolt is going to cause me trouble and break, and I would definately prefer to not touch it.

Edit: Repair manual from a library is an awesome idea, I will definately look into that.

 

[The_Dealer]

the fm146 is lite enough that without the t-case installation WITH the exhaust still in that it should take no more then 5 minutes, if you y pipe doesnt leak dont touch it lol, if its already leaking on the other hand

my fm146 didnt seem to light when i got it onto the jack, yea its alot lighter then moving the a4ld around, but still...o well im about to see in like 30 mins. got my block plate so the trans is going in

 

[adsm08]

Don't drop the trans on your face.

Also, if you put the truck on jack stands, be careful. I literally threw my truck off two jack stands while manhandling the trans last time.

 

[mn_smokeater]

Don't drop the trans on your face.

or drop the T case on your self... couse a half tons one weighs a bit more im sure but still

 

[bduke23]

How do I disconnect the shift linkages? Can I leave the shifter stub for the tranny in, and just take off the shift lever? And for the t-case, do I just unbolt it from the side of the tranny?
Also, I do not have a transmission jack, and my floor jack is a pretty wimpy little thing that I don't think will lift high enough so I will try my best not to drop it on myself. I will drain them both before pulling them.

 

[The_Dealer]

cant help u on the linkages, but on the t-case more then likely u will have to remove the trans mount completely, and undo the 15mm bolts(might be 14 i dont remember) from the backside of the tailhousing. what i do is take my legs and lay on my back so i can kinda hold it with my thighs, otherwise that bish is heavy

 

[mn_smokeater]

How do I disconnect the shift linkages? Can I leave the shifter stub for the tranny in, and just take off the shift lever? And for the t-case, do I just unbolt it from the side of the tranny?
Also, I do not have a transmission jack, and my floor jack is a pretty wimpy little thing that I don't think will lift high enough so I will try my best not to drop it on myself. I will drain them both before pulling them.

get some scrap lumber and build a cradle for your tranny to slide into and that will fit into the jacks lil dish. it will be tippy but should take most the weight off and the rest will be guiding it.