Test the distributor...if you have a voltmeter that measures in 1000 volts DC put it on that setting or you may damage it...if you're not getting around 9000 volts out of the coil it may be bad...and replacing that will get you running...
Oh, wait...are you running coil packs with 8 plugs or is it 4 plugs with a coil on the fender?
i got one coil on the driver side fender and 4 spark plugs on the passenger side of the truck what kind of set up is that i know its stock be whats it called.and i dont have a volt meter but its getting a good steady blue spark at the coil and to the distributor i tested the old fashion way by holding it to metal but wouldnt it be good if it is blue?And also i put new wires on today and still no blue spark at the plugs ony yellow
Cool...good spark at coil and dizzy says if it isn't coming out of the dizzy then the dizzy may be the problem...remove the cap and check the rotor...make sure it's actually turning when you crank the engine...and replace the cap and rotor if you see a problem with them...as in burned rotor contact...or the little contact at the top is corroded or does not spring up to connect to the center peg on the cap...
Cool...good spark at coil and dizzy says if it isn't coming out of the dizzy then the dizzy may be the problem...remove the cap and check the rotor...make sure it's actually turning when you crank the engine...and replace the cap and rotor if you see a problem with them...as in burned rotor contact...or the little contact at the top is corroded or does not spring up to connect to the center peg on the cap...
will do but i hope its not the dizzy its only a couple months old i put it in just before it quit running and after i get a blue spark it might not still start but it will fix that problem right now it wont even do anything but crank not even try to start up at all so am going to get a blue spark then make sure the timing and all is all good and then go to the next suggestion.but its getting gas to the plugs so i hope the not getting a blue spark is my problem.
No...the timing only allows the spark to spark when the cylinder is ready to fire...it simply coordinates the cam and crank and dizzy so that everything is where it should be when it's supposed to be there...
I just remembered something that may be happening on your vehicle since they use similar wiring harnesses...and if your harness is original and hasn't been checked...the brown wire (thick brown wire with a black stripe) that runs along the driver side and over to the battery...check to see that it is not frayed...mine was holding on by a single thread when I was having start issues...
But my start issues were actually due to flooding the cylinders with too much gas...and when the temperature dropped below -10 Celcius it simply didn't have enough spark to fire...
If your dizzy is otherwise spinning as it should and you do not get it to fire...try rotating the dizzy clockwise or counter-clockwise by about 15*...it may be just enough out that your spark is not coming in time...so your fuel simply doesn't get ignited...
Otherwise...again, the best way to test the spark is to do it at night or in as dark a place as you can find...if you are not getting spark at the plug on all four plugs, then your cap may be pooched...
No...the timing only allows the spark to spark when the cylinder is ready to fire...it simply coordinates the cam and crank and dizzy so that everything is where it should be when it's supposed to be there...
I just remembered something that may be happening on your vehicle since they use similar wiring harnesses...and if your harness is original and hasn't been checked...the brown wire (thick brown wire with a black stripe) that runs along the driver side and over to the battery...check to see that it is not frayed...mine was holding on by a single thread when I was having start issues...
But my start issues were actually due to flooding the cylinders with too much gas...and when the temperature dropped below -10 Celcius it simply didn't have enough spark to fire...
If your dizzy is otherwise spinning as it should and you do not get it to fire...try rotating the dizzy clockwise or counter-clockwise by about 15*...it may be just enough out that your spark is not coming in time...so your fuel simply doesn't get ignited...
Otherwise...again, the best way to test the spark is to do it at night or in as dark a place as you can find...if you are not getting spark at the plug on all four plugs, then your cap may be pooched...
On the driver side there is a group that go into a connector...they are for headlamps, horn, and other things...and outside of that you should see a larger wire...should also have a fuse link on it...and there is a small connector for it around the windshield washer fluid holder...check that connection closely...it is a main power feed for the ignition system...
However, you are getting good spark at the coil...check it anyway...when I reconnected mine it seemed to work much better...
Short of that...have you checked to see if the dizzy is spinning? Even if it is new...if the shaft lets go it simply won't spin...mine was rebuilt by a mechanic so it was the last thing I suspected...until it blew the muffler off with so much fuel building up in the system due to not sparking properly...
Be careful of that...your plugs are getting fuel...every exhaust stroke sends unburnt fuel directly into your exhaust system...
I ended up blowing up a nearly new muffler when I finally found the broken wire...
can someone give me instructions on how to line up the timing i put the crankshaft on tdc on the the timing cover then i lined the camshaft up and put the rotor button on number one spark plug is this right?
you did it right. it takes 2 revolutions of the crankshaft to get 1 rev of the camshaft. set the timbg then turn the crank 2 times landing back on TDC. if the cam sprocket still lines up you are ok
On the driver side there is a group that go into a connector...they are for headlamps, horn, and other things...and outside of that you should see a larger wire...should also have a fuse link on it...and there is a small connector for it around the windshield washer fluid holder...check that connection closely...it is a main power feed for the ignition system...
However, you are getting good spark at the coil...check it anyway...when I reconnected mine it seemed to work much better...
Short of that...have you checked to see if the dizzy is spinning? Even if it is new...if the shaft lets go it simply won't spin...mine was rebuilt by a mechanic so it was the last thing I suspected...until it blew the muffler off with so much fuel building up in the system due to not sparking properly...
Be careful of that...your plugs are getting fuel...every exhaust stroke sends unburnt fuel directly into your exhaust system...
I ended up blowing up a nearly new muffler when I finally found the broken wire...
You are getting good spark at the distributor and the distributor is turning...Good~
Have you replaced the plug wires or tested them? That would be the next logical step...test before you replace them though...and also check the spark on all four cylinders...since you may have just one bad wire or spark plug...(not sure if you changed the plugs already, but let us know if you have...)
You are getting good spark at the distributor and the distributor is turning...Good~
Have you replaced the plug wires or tested them? That would be the next logical step...test before you replace them though...and also check the spark on all four cylinders...since you may have just one bad wire or spark plug...(not sure if you changed the plugs already, but let us know if you have...)
i have only checked spark on the first plug ill check on all four and i changed the wires still nothing but i did break the distributor cap bolt on one side off in the distributor so i got to get that out and get it tightened down but i dont think that would be the problem
You are getting good spark at the distributor and the distributor is turning...Good~
Have you replaced the plug wires or tested them? That would be the next logical step...test before you replace them though...and also check the spark on all four cylinders...since you may have just one bad wire or spark plug...(not sure if you changed the plugs already, but let us know if you have...)
If the cap has a busted bolt you should fix that before going futher...if the cap is not tightened and level when the rotor is turning it could either miss the cylinder point or it may run the rotor into the peg...causing much frustration and maybe even some damage that you probably don't need right now...
And to answer your question, yes, you should be getting spark at the cap points...and it should be in the 1,000s of DC volts...just like the coil output...upwards of 10,000...I meant to provide a link on how to test the ignition system but keep forgetting...
This is one of about a dozen or so that I found...best to have sound...but there is also information in auto encyclopedias et al...I figure I could answer all your questions, but, as the saying goes, give a man an answer and he can go forward one step...teach him how to fish and he will spend a day drinking beer in a boat somewhere...lol
Hope this helps...there are a whack of them to choose from...but do feel free to ask...I'm more concerned with the hit and miss of the troubleshooting...sounds like you may have issues other than the spark...it should fire up with all the ingredients (spark, gas, timing)...
If the cap has a busted bolt you should fix that before going futher...if the cap is not tightened and level when the rotor is turning it could either miss the cylinder point or it may run the rotor into the peg...causing much frustration and maybe even some damage that you probably don't need right now...
And to answer your question, yes, you should be getting spark at the cap points...and it should be in the 1,000s of DC volts...just like the coil output...upwards of 10,000...I meant to provide a link on how to test the ignition system but keep forgetting...
This is one of about a dozen or so that I found...best to have sound...but there is also information in auto encyclopedias et al...I figure I could answer all your questions, but, as the saying goes, give a man an answer and he can go forward one step...teach him how to fish and he will spend a day drinking beer in a boat somewhere...lol
Hope this helps...there are a whack of them to choose from...but do feel free to ask...I'm more concerned with the hit and miss of the troubleshooting...sounds like you may have issues other than the spark...it should fire up with all the ingredients (spark, gas, timing)...
ok i will fix the cap first then ill check the firing at all spark plugs but the plugs and wires are good the cap is fairly new and so is the rotor and the igntion module thing on the side of the distributor was tested at autozone a few times to get up tp operating temp. and it is also good what else could cause a weak spark?and i have a new extra coil and it want make it fire off either.
ok i will fix the cap first then ill check the firing at all spark plugs but the plugs and wires are good the cap is fairly new and so is the rotor and the igntion module thing on the side of the distributor was tested at autozone a few times to get up tp operating temp. and it is also good what else could cause a weak spark?and i have a new extra coil and it want make it fire off either.
could i just check the spark at the coil at night and make sure its getting a blue spark or would it be best to check it with a volt meter which i dont have how much would one cost just to do what i need to do?
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