Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and gypsy62
New Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2011
- Messages
- 2
- Vehicle Year
- 1986
- Transmission
- Manual
My Fix
I just blew a timing belt. It's not clear if anybody on this thread has told you to fudge the Aux Pulley (= "dizzy") notch-by-notch instead of loosening the dizzy base. Yeah, you have to confirm the crank and cam positions every time and deal with the tensioner. But leaving-off the t. cover, and alt. pulleys/fan with only the harmonic balancer snugged lightly back on, it only took about ten minutes between aux pulley tooth-jumps. After getting everything dialed in, I put a paint-pen mark on the Aux pulley and the screw post directly above it (as a fixed reference point) so that there would be a usable third timing mark for easy future alignment. I got lucky and went in the right direction first effort. Three teeth later -turning clockwise- and it ran like a deer.
I HAVE A HAYNES MANUAL AND I THINK THAT THEIR GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION OF THE LOCATION OF #1 DISTRIBUTOR POST IS WRONG. Well, more accurately as someone pointed out in a prior reply the dizzy doesn't care WHICH dizzy POST #1 is assigned to as long as the order of the next posts/wires go to cylinders/plugs 3-4-2 to complete the firing order ('86 2.3 gas spec) and that WHICHEVER dizzy post is #1 that it aligns with the crank and cam marks. In my case, #1 was at the 2-o'clock post when facing dizzy from front of truck.
This procedure and the truck ran better than ever.
-MY PROBLEM: after replacing the T belt, I decided to do a leak-down and compression test to evaluate the condition of the engine. Simple, Right? The engine has only 73K original and spec'd like a champ: zero-loss and 150-160# compression all around.
NOW IT WON'T START!!!
-Spark at plugs: check
-Fuel at rail valve in both run and start-burst: check
-double-checked all timing alignments (just completed tbelt as above two hours of driving prior): check.
-Cranking, no ignition at all, rough or otherwise.
I read the reply to this thread postulating flooding-damaged plugs, but all four were removed during all compression-test cranking so therefore could not have been soaked by injector spray.
I have no idea how doing leak-down and comp tests caused this engine to go from running perfectly to absolute zero...
Thoughts?
I just blew a timing belt. It's not clear if anybody on this thread has told you to fudge the Aux Pulley (= "dizzy") notch-by-notch instead of loosening the dizzy base. Yeah, you have to confirm the crank and cam positions every time and deal with the tensioner. But leaving-off the t. cover, and alt. pulleys/fan with only the harmonic balancer snugged lightly back on, it only took about ten minutes between aux pulley tooth-jumps. After getting everything dialed in, I put a paint-pen mark on the Aux pulley and the screw post directly above it (as a fixed reference point) so that there would be a usable third timing mark for easy future alignment. I got lucky and went in the right direction first effort. Three teeth later -turning clockwise- and it ran like a deer.
I HAVE A HAYNES MANUAL AND I THINK THAT THEIR GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION OF THE LOCATION OF #1 DISTRIBUTOR POST IS WRONG. Well, more accurately as someone pointed out in a prior reply the dizzy doesn't care WHICH dizzy POST #1 is assigned to as long as the order of the next posts/wires go to cylinders/plugs 3-4-2 to complete the firing order ('86 2.3 gas spec) and that WHICHEVER dizzy post is #1 that it aligns with the crank and cam marks. In my case, #1 was at the 2-o'clock post when facing dizzy from front of truck.
This procedure and the truck ran better than ever.
-MY PROBLEM: after replacing the T belt, I decided to do a leak-down and compression test to evaluate the condition of the engine. Simple, Right? The engine has only 73K original and spec'd like a champ: zero-loss and 150-160# compression all around.
NOW IT WON'T START!!!
-Spark at plugs: check
-Fuel at rail valve in both run and start-burst: check
-double-checked all timing alignments (just completed tbelt as above two hours of driving prior): check.
-Cranking, no ignition at all, rough or otherwise.
I read the reply to this thread postulating flooding-damaged plugs, but all four were removed during all compression-test cranking so therefore could not have been soaked by injector spray.
I have no idea how doing leak-down and comp tests caused this engine to go from running perfectly to absolute zero...
Thoughts?
