2.3L ('83-'97) Time for a new clutch 96 2.3


Yep, I have a Luk flywheel on me I got in case it was bad. Happy to put the $50 into the clutch job but for my own knowledge I'm curious if the flywheel looks usable.
 
I don't have a lot of experience, but if I was hard up for money I'd use a DA sander and rough up the surface for a new clutch. Even hand sanding if necessary.
I do that a lot on rotors for my beaters.
 
Does this photo tell me i have a leaking rear main seal? the clutch was completely dry.

Time for a new clutch 96 2.3
 
well, the clutch is bone dry and the bell housing doesn't show signs of leakage, though there is a little grim built up (pic 2). maybe some seeping? I do have an oil leak somewhere as the oil pan shows a lot of signs.

i'm leaning toward not replacing the rear main seal.
 

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I'm inclined to leave it alone. I once replaced a seeping rear main seal because I already had the motor out. Dam if it didn't leak worse after...
 
I decided to replace it. Is Victor Reinz any good? Might not be able to get my hands on a Ford OEM today.
 
Yep, I have a Luk flywheel on me I got in case it was bad. Happy to put the $50 into the clutch job but for my own knowledge I'm curious if the flywheel looks usable.
Good to know.

I've certainly installed worse. The 2.9 flywheel had a burned spot about the size of my thumb (not the nail whole thumb) that was so bad the metal was flaky. I put it in anyway cause I was broke. Proceeded to drive the truck 8 years with a 4.0 on that clutch. Probably the reason my FM146 survive as long as it did. That bad clutch acted like a fuse. It slipped before I broke something else...
 
ok rear main seal in hand. Never done one but it looks straightforward though I understand it requires great care to not have it leak in the future.

i rented the tool but the largest disc isn't big enough. I could find a plate and drill a hole. I assume it just needs even pressure?

it comes with a plastic sleeve I assume is part of the install process?
 

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