Thinking about a new welder - building/modifying small trailer?

[joecool85]

I am interested in getting a new welder. I am going to be trying some 5/64" 6013 and 1/16" 7014 (see thread) on my old 50 amp 110v buzz box, but once I get decent with that I'd like to get a better welder and eventually be able to build or repair small utility trailers (3,000lb GTWR and less). I know I need to get better first, and may even take a welding course before attempting working on anything that sees the road. These are the machines I'm thinking about:

- Everlast PowerArc 140ST - $275, 85A @ 110v, 140A @ 220v, 35% @ max amps, DC output
- Hobart Stickmate 235 - $320, 235A @ 220v, 20% @ 225A, 100% @ 100A, AC output
- Hobart Stickmate 235 AC/DC - $599, 235A @ 220v, 20% duty @ 225A AC/160A DC, 100% duty at 100A, AC/DC output

The Everlast is a "Designed in USA, Made in China" deal, weighs only 25lbs and is an inverter type unit. The Hobarts are Made in USA, period and are heavy "American Iron" transformer units, weighing 83lbs and 104lbs respectively.

Is the Everlast large enough to do light trailer work or do I really need a larger 220v machine? I don't mind using 220v (I'd have to run a line, but no big deal there), it's just that the 220v units are pretty heavy and more expensive. From what I understand, these smaller trailers use 3/16" angle for the frame normally and 1/8" angle for the rest of it. I'd like a lightweight machine as I will need to store it in my basement but use it outside (no garage).

 

[scotts90ranger]

Find yourself an old Lincoln buzz box (or other name brand) on craigslist, you'll be in the $100 range at most and will probably come with some extras, then go to a discount store and pick up a cheap hand truck with the 10" pneumatic tires (probably $20) and make yourself a welding cart with the welder on the bottom and hooks for your mask and cords above it, the big tires should make stairs a piece of cake.

I'd recommend looking at wire feeds though, they're handier...

1/16" rods are the trick for the 110V stick welders, but they're a pain to use because they bend when you look at them... For stick welding, 220 is pretty much a must, you can do more with a 110V wire feed than you can with a 110V stick welder, and a 110V wire feed using flux core would still be in your price range above used for a name brand...

 

[joecool85]

Find yourself an old Lincoln buzz box (or other name brand) on craigslist, you'll be in the $100 range at most and will probably come with some extras, then go to a discount store and pick up a cheap hand truck with the 10" pneumatic tires (probably $20) and make yourself a welding cart with the welder on the bottom and hooks for your mask and cords above it, the big tires should make stairs a piece of cake.

I'd recommend looking at wire feeds though, they're handier...

1/16" rods are the trick for the 110V stick welders, but they're a pain to use because they bend when you look at them... For stick welding, 220 is pretty much a must, you can do more with a 110V wire feed than you can with a 110V stick welder, and a 110V wire feed using flux core would still be in your price range above used for a name brand...

I've heard that a 110v wire feed would have a real hard time doing 3/16" steel though and is better suited to thinner steel. I probably will end up with a used 220v stick welder. I'd thought about the hand truck thing for a cart too - great minds think alike, eh? Although since I don't like Made in China crap for the most part, I may just build it myself. If I do I will probably use larger wheels/tires, something like a 4.8 x 8 snowblower tire (they look mean).

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I will throw in my vote for a 110 mig welder as a more versatile and mobile welder for the diy. If you can strike an arc with a stick welder, you'll have no problem using a mig. And as you are already used to cleaning up the welds after, a flux core will be fine. I have a 110 lincoln weld-pac 100 that I've used for over 10 years. It can be upgraded to gas but I haven't bothered as flux core is better when welding outside. It will handle breezes better and will weld thru minor rust such as on an exhaust. As far as how thick you can weld, the ratings you see are single pass.....meaning that you can do thicker if you grind a "v" and do multiple passes as long as you clean the slag off between passes. I've welded up to 1/4" with mine when I made a snowplow adapter for my B-II. I found a crack after a year of use but I believe that was bad design, not a lack of the welder. I have since picked up a thermal dynamics 211i 3 in 1 dual voltage welder. You might want to research the dual voltage option, you get both the portability of the 110 and the oomph of the 220.
I picked up the welder, a bottle, and used a coupon to get a tig torch and accessories for ~$1650.00 to my door. I realize that's way more than your wanting to spend, and I'm not suggesting you go that route. I suggest that you look at a used brand name mig in the 140 amp range, it should do what you want for years to come.
The inverter technology is great until you are off warranty then it's expensive to fix. That should change as time goes by.
I'm just a diy that has learned by doing so these are opinions, not gospel. Take it for what it's worth [free and on the net].
Some pics of welding 1/4" square tube with my flux core lincoln weld pac 100 - first pass, the goober welds up front were not mine and were ground out and rewelded later;

After paint, with afterthought addition. You can see the top where I ground out the goober and rewelded;

Good luck,

Richard

 

[vegasloki]

The Everlast isn't really designed in the US regardless of what Oleg or Luggy say. About as deep as they get is cosmetic and telling the contractor which features and accessories they want to include. There is a reason they are cheap.

At 3/16" a 11 volt MIG is pushing it and it's likely to be a bit cold unless you bevel. We use one at the track for ease with smaller generators and FCAW but for MIG I'd suggest at least a 180 amp machine. The previous post says a 1/4" piece cracked and that was almost certainly due to the welder not being big enough. A 110 volt MIG can not do 1/4". You'll need 170 to 190 amps to weld 1/4" mild steel properly. A 110 volt MIG is limited to about 140 amps and a very low duty cycle. I have TIG, MIG and stick and use the stick on the trailer and heavier pit and shop equipment. I'm using the stick portion of a Lincoln Square Wave 175. Works good with both 6013 and 7014. For 1/8" and under a 110 volt MIG is fine.

The Hobart will be the best bang for the buck. Good pricing, good service if you need it and owned by the same company that owns Miller. Tractor supply and Northern Tool have good deals fairly frequently. The newer Thermal Arcs are good as well and have good service if need be. If you do a bit of shopping a used Maxstar 200 could be had.

 

[joecool85]

The Everlast isn't really designed in the US regardless of what Oleg or Luggy say. About as deep as they get is cosmetic and telling the contractor which features and accessories they want to include. There is a reason they are cheap.

At 3/16" a 11 volt MIG is pushing it and it's likely to be a bit cold unless you bevel. We use one at the track for ease with smaller generators and FCAW but for MIG I'd suggest at least a 180 amp machine. The previous post says a 1/4" piece cracked and that was almost certainly due to the welder not being big enough. A 110 volt MIG can not do 1/4". You'll need 170 to 190 amps to weld 1/4" mild steel properly. A 110 volt MIG is limited to about 140 amps and a very low duty cycle. I have TIG, MIG and stick and use the stick on the trailer and heavier pit and shop equipment. I'm using the stick portion of a Lincoln Square Wave 175. Works good with both 6013 and 7014. For 1/8" and under a 110 volt MIG is fine.

The Hobart will be the best bang for the buck. Good pricing, good service if you need it and owned by the same company that owns Miller. Tractor supply and Northern Tool have good deals fairly frequently. The newer Thermal Arcs are good as well and have good service if need be. If you do a bit of shopping a used Maxstar 200 could be had.

Do you find it's worth the extra $180 ($320 for Stickmate 235 AC, $500 for Stickmate 235 AC/DC) for the DC option?

 

[vegasloki]

Were I in your position I'd go with an AC/DC if you go the stick route. You'll get some more flexibility from it for not too much more money. DC can be better in many apps for example out of postion/overhead work. In the long run if that's going to be your only machine you'd want both. You may be able to find a used Lincoln tombstone or a Miller Thunderbolt in your area via CL or a pawn shop for a good deal. That said, nothing like the piece of mind with a brand new, under warranty machine if you can afford it.

 

[kcm1582]

Of the welders you listed the Hobart ac/dc unit is by far the best. It's heavy(not easily carried, but rolls alright), but it is strong and will last. When it comes to stick or mig welding anything structural 110v is all but useless. My 110v Hobart 140 lays down some pretty good beads but I wouldn't use it on anything holding more than a few hundred pounds.

BTW if you are building or repairing anything going on the road you need to be trained, experienced, and INSURED. If something goes wrong and someone get hurt, it all lands square on you and you could end up losing big time. My neighbor has a small landscaping company and used a utility trailer that a "welder" had added a frame for walls and a roof to, one look at the welds and I could tell they were to cold. Sure enough a few of them broke, and if he hadn't bolted plywood to the frame half of it would have fallen off and been left in the street.

 

[nooch450]

I bought this and have been very happy so far. It gives you alot of options and puts out some heat for a little machine.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485145_200485145

 

[Shran]

FWIW, Hobart is manufactured by Miller. Good machines.

My personal thoughts about what you need:

If you're building trailers and stuff, a stick welder would be low on my list. MIG is just more efficient.

I've built a lot of stuff with my 110v wire feed, that said, I don't like using it on anything over 1/8". Not enough penetration unless you prep really well (bevel edges, etc.)

Think about getting a wire feed with the option to run gas. If you want a nice, cheap welder, get a Clarke - I have two - they're great, however since Clarke is out of business now, parts are kind hard to come by. HTP is a great source for new parts.

I got a Clarke 180EN a while back for free and just recently purchased a bottle of gas and a regulator. I love it! The longer stinger from HTP and a 10' ground cable made it very versatile.

I also have two stick welders, a Century AC 110v and a Century AC/DC 220v. The 110v never gets used but the 220v unit gets a lot of use with my carbon arc torch, lots cheaper to run than my oxy/acetylene torch, and is great for heating things up to bend. I have less than $100 into both welders, made some great Craigslist scores with those.

Just some things to think about, the sky is the limit if you have easy access to 220v power.

 

[scotts90ranger]

...
I also have two stick welders, a Century AC 110v and a Century AC/DC 220v. The 110v never gets used but the 220v unit gets a lot of use with my carbon arc torch, lots cheaper to run than my oxy/acetylene torch, and is great for heating things up to bend. I have less than $100 into both welders, made some great Craigslist scores with those.

Just some things to think about, the sky is the limit if you have easy access to 220v power.

I got a Century 220V AC/DC stick welder at Goodwill for $20 so there... , sweetest welder deal I've found, works like a champ... wish I had 220 in my garage, as it is it's at my mom's...

 

[Shran]

I bought my Century from a buddy for $25, probably have another $20 in new lead plugs, $35 in a new electrode holder and 220v plug. Carbon arc torch was $25 and included a bunch of carbons. Think I paid $10 for the 110v Century, probably wasn't even worth that much now that I think about it.

Great investment though, I learned how to weld on a Forney AC box years ago...DC stick welding is easy but the extra juice you can run with AC make it worth using quite often for gluing the big stuff together!