Think my trans is going

[MAKG]

HOW can you overfill the clutch? I suppose you could boil the fluid due to riding the clutch (your fault), but the only other way I could see fluid coming out there is it LEAKING or perhaps being spilled (not likely unless your tech has Parkinson's).

 

[michowski]

well I say that because the top of the cap was wet and there is a vent hole in it.

 

[michowski]

I got a new master in there and I cant bleed this. I am getting a steady stream of fluid comming out of the bleeder on the slave and there isnt any air bubbles in the lines that ive found. My peddle has no resistance to it. There is no pressure at all when you push it in. Help

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

Sounds like you need a new master cylinder. If the hydraulic line looks good, and there's no fluid dripping from the bottom of the bellhousing (indicating possible leakage from the slave), then it's probably the master cylinder, especially considering it was the only part not replaced. Like MAKG said, it's probably internal.

Also, did you bleed the Master Cylinder unbolted from the truck? The MC must be hand bled free from the truck to get all the air bubbles out. With it still connected to the slave cylinder and reservoir, unbolt it from the truck and shake it around and twist it. Watch for air bubbles in the reservoir and keep it topped off. Also, pump the MC while you do this. This method worked great for me, and it took me less than 3 minutes to get the MC bled. You'll know its bled when you can pump the MC anymore and you don't see air bubbles coming up to the reservoir.

 

[michowski]

I had the master level not bolted in, but all the lines attatched and got bubbles for a good minute. I had somebody hold it there and manually pushed in the rod without being attatched to the pedal all the way in and out. After I didnt see any air bubbles I did it 2 more times. Then I bolted the master to the firewall and proceeded to bleed it with the slave. It bled good, got all the air out. Nice steady stream comming out. I always kept the reservoir full. But still the clutch pedal never got hard. I took the master back and got another and it does the same thing. I gotta be doing something wrong. I read the haynes manual and bled it how it says. Also in the tech section I read that and still the pedal doesnt get stiff. No leaks in the lines. It bleeds out the slave fine. Even just the bleeder open fluid runs down the side. But the pedal still doesnt get stiff. 2 masters and the same thing for both. The fault has gotta be on me but ive done it per the book and tech section.

 

[bottledgt]

it really just sucks...then all of a sudden it will work. just keep playing with it. try opening bleeder and let it drain for a good while. just keep fluid in the master as you do this. while its draining try tapping on master and slave with a wrench

 

[michowski]

I tried for another 2 hours and still get no pedal pressure at all. It bleeds nice. Good stream when you push the pedal. No air bubbles. before I had the master installed on the firewall, I had it level and worked out all the air bubbles. Im confident theres no air in the line at all. Still cant get any pedal pressure. 2 masters ive tried with the same results. Right now I got a tow truck comming so they can take it to the shop to see if they can bleed/fix it for me.

 

[bottledgt]

confident as you are...theres still air in it. think about it. you're trying to bleed air straight down. theres air trapped in it somewhere, which is why i said tap on it with a wrench

 

[michowski]

im taking it to ford monday. I had my buddy do it at his shop and he actually did a good job compared to me. Got it all bled but now its still not disengaging all the way. Gears are really tough to get into now. Still some more bleeding to be done thats for sure. But at least he got it were its drivable now so monday morning I can take it to ford. I might pay a little more with ford but at least its done correctly and will fully engage/disengage when its supposed to

 

[michowski]

F@(k the ford dealer. Brought it in for a complete clutch inspection. Had them check everything from the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder. There innitial diagnoses was I had a slave cylinder leaking. Gave me an estimate of 600 to replace it and that would fix my problems. I took my truck in last week to have it done and after 2 days I get a call, they now tell me that it was the something with the linkage binding in the master and also an the seal on the line that was bad. They cut the price in half and I said just make my clutch work. Another day and half go by and they finally got the part in and was able to bleed out the system. Everything worked great that day when I got it back and the next day. All the sudden yesterday I started having trouble shifting it again. Go to put it in reverse and its "grinding" the gears again.

I just took it back to them and I was told them its still not working right and I want it fixed. They took my key and said they would test drive it to see how its acting. A few minutes later the mechanic who worked on it originally said again that I had a faulty slave cylinder thats allowing air to get in the system. I was like why did I take it in to have this changed and you guys decided to change something else then and then tell me again its the slave causing your problems. Why did I bring it in to be changed and you didnt. Now they were trying to see who called me and said said, and trace back everything that happened. The guy who called me was a complete f'in douche bag. He told me they took the trans off and inspected the slave and said it was the inline seal. I wasnt gonna be charged for that work done. Now all the sudden nobody knows what the hell anyone said. I was ready to pay the 600 to have the slave done originally but they decided it was fine. Now a few days later its not. I stormed out of the place, did a nice big f'in burnout right next to there new cars on the lot and just left. F@(k the ford dealers. I f'in hate em so bad right now.
This right here is why I never let anybody else work on my truck but me. Now I gotta spend another hundred dollars to get a new slave, and spend the time to replace this myself. I definatly wont be taking it back there now.

 

[bottledgt]

600 to replace a slave? jesus

 

[michowski]

trans has to come out and without pulling the motor its probly the hardest thing to do. I can pull the motor in a 3 hour period. Pulling the trans will easily take a day.

 

[bottledgt]

trans should come out in about an hour...unless your exhaust is rusted on

 

[fordman8991]

trans has to come out and without pulling the motor its probly the hardest thing to do. I can pull the motor in a 3 hour period. Pulling the trans will easily take a day.

i took my trans out by myself in less than 2 hours.

sorry to hear about your troubles. i went through the same thing with my TA this summer. got it all in with my new clutch barely got it into gear decided to go for my test drive anyways. got down the road and it would not shift out of 1st and i could not turn around there. drove a mile away to a gas station in the middle of no where had to shut it off. could not get it back in gear once i started it again finally started it in 1st drove it back and shut if off while still moving towards the garage with no clutch pedal at all no way of stopping. scary stuff clutch systems suck

 

[thegoat4]

Get a buddy to help you with this. Engine off. Pull the rubber inspection plug in the bell housing near the line. Watch the end of the slave cylinder while you have your buddy push and hold the clutch pedal. If the end moves forward and then sinks back it's a master cylinder bleeding internally. If that's OK, determine if you're leaking fluid. If you bleed and top off the system, then after a day or so of driving (whenever it acts up) your fluid level is low, it's a leak. If you don't see fluid coming from the hose connection or master cylinder, it's a blown slave.

If you can't see the end of the slave cylinder, use a screwdriver to feel for it.

Also, I'll mention this just because some people honestly don't know: when you're bleeding the system, shut the bleed screw again before the stream completely dies off. If you leave it open longer than that you're very likely to get air back into the system. I once spent literally hours trying to bleed brakes (when I was new, I swear!) and never got the air out for that very reason.

Make sure you put the right fluid in there. I've seen lots of people put PS fluid in there and screw everything up. If that ever happened to your system, replace everything, it'll never recover.