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C5 Transmission, missing block spacer plate ??


Doug Burgoyne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2023
Messages
75
City
Oregon
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
Pulled my C5 transmission from my '84 Ranger 4x4 with 2.8 to rebuild it. Upon pulling it, I noticed a small piece of stamped steel around my starter in between the block and bell housing. After cleaning it up, it was obvious it was just a broken piece from a larger part. After researching I found it is the "block plate", "separator plate", meant to go between the trans and engine. I have picture attached of the piece that is left. Also the inspection plate is also gone, just leaving torque converter and flex plate exposed to rocks, dirt, water, etc. I've spent about 4 months trying to find one of these plates and inspection covers. Nothing. Can't even find a picture of it (used every search engine, term, chatgpt, cars.com, summit, etc, etc, etc) or part number. I can find many images of similar items, for say C3 or C4 for older cars, mustangs, ford trucks, etc. So unless someone reading this happens to have one sitting in their garage they're willing to sell me...I supposed my 3 options are: 1) put it back together the way it was with broken spacer. 2) Make a spacer by tracing the bell housing and marking bolt and alignment pin holes onto sheet metal and cut it out and hope it works. 3) leave it out all together (even broken piece I have) and hope no issues with clearance, alignment, etc., cause issues. Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • C5 to 2.8 spacer plate.jpg
    C5 to 2.8 spacer plate.jpg
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At the least, reuse it. The plate is what orients the starter into the correct position. Personally I would be inclined to use that piece plus make the rest if you can't find another.
Edit; as 85 says in post below...
I do believe that the c5 and c4 would have the same plate, as they are the same basic trans AFAIK.
 
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Looks like there is just enough left to align the starter. I'd be tempted to get a plate from ANY cologne block to use as parts to rebuild that one. If you're really lucky, one from a newer truck (2.9, auto or manual. 4.0, auto) would be the same. Have to try to line up with the part that you have though.
 
At the least, reuse it. The plate is what orients the starter into the correct position. Personally I would be inclined to use that piece plus make the rest if you can't find another. I do believe that the c5 and c4 would have the same plate, as they are the same basic trans AFAIK.
They are bolt pattern specific, it would have to be for something that has the same bellhousing boltpattern as a 2.8.
 
So I have a 77 pinto with a 2.8 and auto. Not sure which auto, but most likely c3 but could be c4.( sorry, not for sale ) I also don't know if they are the same family trans, ie; the plates would interchange. But maybe across the pond they have sources for the plate? The engine was an import from Germany? originally?
 
You might be able to use one from an A4LD equipped truck (85-92 with either a 2.8 or 2.9, NOT a 4.0.) I think I have a block plate from an '85 somewhere that I could look for a part number on... I'm kinda thinking that there's not much difference there as the flex plate and starter are the same. EDIT flex plate is NOT the same
 
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Thanks for all the great input guys. From all my research I've done, for some time now, the plate I would need is specific to both the 2.8 and C5 configuration. I read a forum post from someone that used one from a 2.9 or something, but required some mods to some of the holes. I'm thinking of trying to make one by placing bellhousing face down on appropriate sheet metal, tracing, marking hole locations, etc., and cutting/drilling. But, that's pretty crude compared to a precision factory stamped part....and since mostly what I've read these are for are proper alignments, etc., I'm concerned my imperfectly made part could actually make things worse than better. I don't even have a picture of one. I do have some feelers out to used part outfits like bronco graveyard etc, to see if this rare as hens teeth (or dura spark distributor) item is out there somewhere.
 
Mainly it's there to align the starter with the flex plate. These get left out often when reinstalling transmissions and it's incredibly frustrating to find out about that when you have the trans bolted in after hours of fighting it past the exhaust...I am not surprised to see that someone hacked off the starter alignment part and just installed that.

The funny part about that is on an automatic, you can slide the trans back off the alignment dowels and the block plate will fall right out. SUPER easy problem to fix if it was left out by mistake - That's impossible on a manual though - no slot in the plate, it goes on before the flywheel. I had to do that about 10 times when I put a C5 behind a 4.0 in my Explorer because the 4.0 alignment dowels are not the same as a 2.8 - I had to hog out the holes bit by bit so that the starter would line up correctly.

I'll see if the auto block plates I have in my parts stash have a part number on them. I imagine if it starts with E2 or E3 (1983+) then it may not matter but E5 (85+, A4LD) may have been revised specifically for the A4LD in 1985 and won't work.
 
I did come up with a part number after hours of searching and playing with chatgpt. The part number is E3TZ-7007-A and the inspection cover was shown as possibly #E3TZ-7976-A (also pulled up # E3TZ-7007-B for inspection cover). I have yet to find image or part listing for either of these parts. But...It does line up with your 1983+ "E3" reference. That block plate number above, according to chatgpt is for "engine to transmission bell housing block plate for ford ranger/bronco II 4x4 with 2.8 engine and C5 transmission". But again, a number is no help if unobtanium. However, maybe some of you ford part wizards can make something of that. I'm going to be pulling bell housing in the next day or two, I have it bolted in even though trans is on the bench, so I could install starter for engine work and tuning months ago. So pulling is just a few bolts. Then I can get good straight on image of that bolt pattern, make a tracing, etc., for possible matchup to images online, in the event another block plate for another application may work...or be close enough to modify for replacement on mine. Again, I appreciate all of you guys taking the time. Got a lot of time into the trans rebuild, engine work, etc., anxious to get truck back on the road, but really want to get this small but important detail right...or as right as I can.
 
I would not trust chatgpt any farther than I could throw it for providing part numbers.
 
Yeah, me neither. The amount of bad info from CGPT I've received is crazy. But as a starting point, if I could find image and match up bolt patterns, etc., could get lucky. It's an act of desperation :)
 
I googled the number:

 
Huh...you found more than I did on it. Tried a couple browsers too. Seems odd to start with E3 and be for 87-96 model? I assumed it was not the correct number, so didn't spend too much time. So much for AI :)
 
I just dropped E3TZ-7007-A into Google and I get a bunch of results that have pictures which seem to indicate that it is a 4 cylinder block plate. The -B part number also is. E3TZ-7976-A doesn't come up with any results.

You might stop by your local Ford dealer parts department and see if they can look it up. My local Ford shop is awful about almost everything but having access to ancient part numbers is one place they have always been able to help.
 
Good idea. I guess I've gotten so used to avoiding the stealer at all cost over the last few decades (for many reasons), that the thought didn't even cross my mind. Maybe they can even find one for me for the low price of $350 or something :) But yeah, a good part number would be helpful. Funny thing, I have the ford shop manual for 1984 ranger/bronco II and it doesn't show or mention that block plate in the appropriate sections (separating engine and trans, removal of trans, install of trans, etc). Thought that was odd too. It mentions removing torque converter inspection plate, to get to the TC and flexplate (it calls it flywheel) nuts, and TC drain plug for draining. It also says to reinstall the inspection cover towards the end of installation procedure. Again, NEVER does it mention a block or separator plate between engine and bell housing, nor does it show in any of the pictures. Again, given the incredible detail of the overhaul sections and removal/install section...I find this to be very strange. Like "hey dummy, don't forget that unassuming metal plate, only to find it after everything is back together". Ya know?
 

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