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The "Mudhound" unde the knife


For suspension, I am looking at running some 4" lift Early Bronco coils, the Dana 44 from my old 1971 Bronco, tubular style radius arms, with one most likely wristed (that is going to depend on well I get this thing to work at flexing) and 1/4 Elip. leaves on the rear, with cantilever mounted shocks, so that I don't have the shocks hanging down. The rear is going to be pretty much set-up like a Desert truck, with the almost obscence wheel travel. The front is going to be ALOT of test -it-out-and-redo-it to get it to function like I want.The radius arms are going to be set-up with a round bolted-through-the-center-bushing similar to a leaf spring bushing, as I want the flex, but NOT the maintence of a Heim joint. I will most likely be using a "quad" shock set-up in the front to help maintain axle control, since I will be driving this on the street somewhat.
 
Ya' know, I am getting sick of having to RE-log in everytime that I jump screens to get pix. Anyways.
Here is the start of the snorkel:
DSCF1686.jpg


Here is the tranny in Reverse, and still clearing my popcan:
DSCF1665.jpg
 
The TFI dizzy is so gone now. I got my hands on a Duraspark from a Mushtang pilot, and the little 2bbl is getting tossed in the storage locker, since I am going to be running a (yeah, yeah. Get the hatemail over with all ready...) GM TBI system for reliabilty, simplicity and availablity of parts out in BFK.
 
By the way, for those who wonder the "Why" of big power and bigger parts, here are a few "Because" pictures:
GorgeNovember2008336.jpg

GorgeNovember2008335.jpg

And the little BroncoII that could:
GorgeNovember2008329.jpg

GorgeNovember2008325.jpg
 
Sweet build, glad you shifter clears your knees and soda can, but the pics make it look aweful tight upo against the dash, hows that working out?
 
Yeah, the tranny shifter is just banging on the lower part of the dash, but it is nothing that a couple of minutes with a torch can't adjust. I also have a few differently shaped T-18 shifters to choose from before I red-wrench the shifter to get it bent to a better angle. Believe me, that is just one of the "minor" details that I have had crop up, and I do expect more as this gets closer to being done. :icon_twisted: :annoyed: :icon_welder:
 
For suspension, I am looking at running some 4" lift Early Bronco coils, the Dana 44 from my old 1971 Bronco, tubular style radius arms, with one most likely wristed (that is going to depend on well I get this thing to work at flexing) and 1/4 Elip. leaves on the rear, with cantilever mounted shocks, so that I don't have the shocks hanging down. The rear is going to be pretty much set-up like a Desert truck, with the almost obscence wheel travel. The front is going to be ALOT of test -it-out-and-redo-it to get it to function like I want.The radius arms are going to be set-up with a round bolted-through-the-center-bushing similar to a leaf spring bushing, as I want the flex, but NOT the maintence of a Heim joint. I will most likely be using a "quad" shock set-up in the front to help maintain axle control, since I will be driving this on the street somewhat.

From the sounds of what your looking for you ever think of using the factory style rubber end on the Radius arms? I wheel with a guy that uses them for his One link suspensions and they hold up well all things considered. hes rocking alot bigger truck so I would think it would work fine with long enough radius arms.

Awesome build by the way I would like to v8 my ranger with the infamous BW T18 but there almost impossible to find round here. Any Idea on what the low,low, Granny low will be?
 
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Midget, I considered running the radius arm "bayonet" bushings, but I decided not to, as I know several folks around here that are running the factory stuff, and even with extended arms, they are usually replacing bushings 3-4 times a year, and they don't get wheel near as often as I do. I feel that the "tubular" style bushings should hold up better, what with the fore/aft movement of the control arms. I also like the thought of a moderate length arm having a large amount of flex, so, once again the thinking behind the "tubular" style mounts.
As for the low down on the geardown, I am looking at a 196.7 C/R. :shok::headbang: The beauty of this whole mess is that I can run it down the Interstate to where ever I am going, lock it down, and be playing around some while everyone else is still popping chains and straps loose onthe trailers. :icon_rofl::D The down side is that I will have to make DAMN sure that I carry extra driveshafts, U-joints, and most likely front axleshafts, as the torque multiplication from everything is def. going to be looking for weak spots. :annoyed:
 
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Yeah If I were you I would be hunting for one tons or rockwells What tire size you plannin on runnin?
 
The "air hat" is off a 4.9 Caddy FWD, if I remember correctly. I am also playing around with the "hat" off a Dodge Dakota V6. It was free, lower profile, and since my buddy blew the 6 up, we are swapping it for a 318 (5.2 for you young uns) that uses a different set-up.
As for the axles, well, how about this:
DSCF1809.jpg

Think that it ought to be a start anyhow. :headbang::icon_thumby: The only down side with it is that other going through and making sure everything is in good shape, is that it is going to take some :icon_welder: to make it work.:D
I am going to be running Boggers on the rear, in a 36-15.5-16 flavor with matching SSRs' on the nose. Oh, and before you ask, I am going to be installing Ecteds' in both axles, along with a cutting brake, and the Dana24 divorce mount Xcase being set up for split shifting ( FWD, 4x4, RWD- you know, that kind of thing.).
 
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Well, the radiator is now officially in and mounted. I found a hose that works for the top location, but I cant' remember WTF it came off of. Still looking in the parts cave, er, storage building, for something for the lower. I used the 2-core from a 94 "X", and I STILL had to trim out the bottom of the core support, plus the piece that I cut out of the top to stuff the engine/tranny combo through, I had to "skin".
 
Pictures later, including the solution to "how" to re-attach the piece that I cut out, Mounting the 16" fan as a pusher- not happy about that, but it ain't gonna fit on the backside of the rad. and a few other items.
 

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