- Joined
- Jan 27, 2010
- Messages
- 492
- Points
- 3,101
- City
- Canada Eh!!
- Vehicle Year
- 1986
- Transmission
- Automatic
I used the 92 Explorer brake master and it will lock up the all 4 38's on pavement, brakes are awesome actually, she stops no problems, well as fast as swampers will slide to a stop anyways, lol. Panic stops with slinky suspension is very interesting to say the least, lol.
I welded in a 2x2 cross member on top of the frame between the engine and rad, then I cut out the engine cross member leaving just enough to keep the stock motor mount surface intact. My frame still flexes a bit though, not a lot but enough that it could eventually crack the frame or distort the frame some. I would recommend tying the bottom of the frame in as well or making a cross member that secures the whole frame top to bottom to prevent the twisting forces exerted by the steering system and pan hard mount. My plans are to run a tube from the pan hard mount across and up to the other frame rail, basically triangulating the set-up back into my upper 2x2 cross member. That was the plan but I haven't got around to it, now thinking about it, when I swap in the V8 I will end up needing to cut out that 2x2 anyways, so I may just design a tub cross member or brace of sorts that ties both frame rails together but travels under the front of the engine oil pan staying as close to the steering box/pan hard mount as possible as well as leaving as much diff clearance as I can allow.
I welded in a 2x2 cross member on top of the frame between the engine and rad, then I cut out the engine cross member leaving just enough to keep the stock motor mount surface intact. My frame still flexes a bit though, not a lot but enough that it could eventually crack the frame or distort the frame some. I would recommend tying the bottom of the frame in as well or making a cross member that secures the whole frame top to bottom to prevent the twisting forces exerted by the steering system and pan hard mount. My plans are to run a tube from the pan hard mount across and up to the other frame rail, basically triangulating the set-up back into my upper 2x2 cross member. That was the plan but I haven't got around to it, now thinking about it, when I swap in the V8 I will end up needing to cut out that 2x2 anyways, so I may just design a tub cross member or brace of sorts that ties both frame rails together but travels under the front of the engine oil pan staying as close to the steering box/pan hard mount as possible as well as leaving as much diff clearance as I can allow.