The Deuce

[RangerSVT]

You are correct on that, any chain tcase will only benefit from 2LO, but no front only power is possible without serious reconstruction...I'm in the design plans now of a 2.72 reduction box that will use the 1356's internals but will be able to be bolted to the RBV's trannies and use a gear case (20, 205, 300, or the toyota gear cases). But I'm sure by the time I get back to fabbing it you will have a setup built already...
SVT

 

[BONES]

Perhaps.

I still need to refresh the v8, rebuild and beef the c4, as well as figure out where I can get spud shafts splined before this project goes any further.

I'll keep wheeling her until I have everything needed to complete the v8 conversion, auto swap and doubler install. Motor and trans/tcase mounts I'll build, but I still need a remote oil filter set-up, kick down linkage I'll likely build too, shifters will be either cable or home made linkage type to get all shifters in the factoryish tcase shifter area and trans will probably get a cable shifter of some sort, drive shafts I'll sort out myself with some 1/4" wall tube and weld em together myself. Pretty much the only hold up on the doubler set-up is getting the spud shafts made up, other than that I have the materials to build the adapters already.

I'm going to "front half" the frame similar to Andres bii as well as delete the inner fender structure and rad support when the v8 swap is on. I'm ordering a jd2 after Christmas, been really stuck on FOA's lately too.

 

[BONES]

Here you go Andres...

As you can see in the pic the Mustang 2 2wd c4 I have has a 13.5" long output shaft.

The EB 4wd c4 has a 5 3/4" long output shaft.

I think tomorrow I'll quit being lazy and actually drag the parts into the shop so I can get a better look at things.

OH and I see the 2wd c4 has the kick down linkage on it still, nice!

 

[n_bannerman]

how much wider then stock are you now? how far do your tires stick out from the body with full width?

 

[BONES]

how much wider then stock are you now? how far do your tires stick out from the body with full width?

IIRC it was 3" rear and 5.5" front. The Bronco II body actually narrows towards the front by 5". Both my axles front d44 and rear 9" are 65" wms to wms. The d35 TTB was 62" wms to wms.

To be honest with you I don't know why guys are scared to go full width 1/2 tons, there not a whole lot wider than factory explorer parts.


That's the best pic I have of how far the tires stuck out the sides, before I removed the factory fender flares.

Here's with my crappy homemade flares.

Without the flares my fronts stick out 3/4's of the 12.5 wide 38's and the rears are maybe half the tire sticking out past the body. I think Id be clean and legal with 6" flares or very close to it.

I just took this pic right now, lol.

Hope this helps, I can get a better pic when it's light out tomorrow if you like?? It's the best I can find without looking thru 100's of wheeling pics from the last 3-4 years, lol.

 

[RangerSVT]

I believe your right, but check on that machine shop near you so we can get this thing going!!
SVT

 

[n_bannerman]

cool thanks! i am looking at a d44/9" swap with front leafs in the spring and this really helps. also what off set and width are your wheels?

 

[BONES]

I have some calling around to do today, been asking around while on the job and may have a few leads on machine shops in town that may do splining. I'll hopefully know more later today.

I'll try and get motivated to go pull all these pieces in the shop at some point today.

Banner, my wheels are 8" wide and it's 4" from the back of the wheel to the bolt flange, so I'd say zero offset.

 

[Andres629]

Nice, thanks for those measurements Bones! Looks like a 2WD C4 is the ticket if I'mma make my own adapter!

 

[BONES]

Well I called the few places I had in mind and none of them do splining, a couple of them gave me other places to try and stiill dead end. I'll keep asking around as I work. I'm sure I'll come up with something in time.

Cause I got nothing else, it's picture time!

My backs sore now.

V8 vs v6 c4 bellhousing and torque converter

2wd vs 4wd c4 outputs

Pan fill vs case fill c4

The 2wd c4 has this counter weight attached to the tail housing too.

Left plug is off the 4wd c4 and the 2 plugs on the right are off the 2wd c4.

Dana20 and BW1354

 

[RangerSVT]

You have a T-shift 20, which has the better 248 ratio...
SVT

 

[BONES]

Really? Interesting!

So I'm to understand that to twin stick the T shift d20's you remove the singler stick shifter and then hook up 2 shifters in its place? OR do I have to remove the interlock pills?

 

[RangerSVT]

EDIT -- scratch that, you have the jeep dana 20, I just noticed that...On the T model you need to remove the shift detents inside the case, but its not difficult to do. The J has a D shaped shift rails with two plates roset welded to the rails...
SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

This is a J shift...

See the difference??
SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

By the way, Would you happen to have a spare spud shaft and/or main gear you could acquire?? As you can see, I need one. The spud shaft doesnt matter on the input spline count, I'm using it for measurements...
SVT