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The decision to spend too much money......


The seats look more 1989-92. The paint should buff out nicely.
That’s certainly possible. Everything looks like it’s been there a while, other than condition. Thanks for the info. Given the level of trim & options it has (none) I suspect it might have had a bench seat originally.
 
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Also looks to possibly have 2nd gen door panels.
Again very possible. This is my first stab at modding a truck, though my ‘03 has a few performance mods that predated it’s service as a work truck. You folks are the experts on these, that’s why I’m here. Without access to the original owner, I have no idea what he might have done, all I know is that it survived with a pristine body & chassis. Carfax-ed it, no accidents, one previous owner prior to the kid. Grandson wasn’t close to his grandfather, he was surprised when he ended up with it.
 
Latest update.....I ran across a set of absolutely perfect 17" Mustang Bullitt wheels on Craigslist. Polished rim with black spokes, including a set of Cooper tires with less than 1K miles on them. Guy just happens to be coming to Louisville today to drop off a motor, so no 90 mile trip to pick them up! $500 delivered. Will be here tonite! :giggle::giggle:
 
Drove up to Columbus, OH this morning and picked up the long block. Looks like a brand new motor. Met Norm, the owner of Team Blitz. He’s a very nice guy, went over the motor with me, gave me the build sheet and the break-in instructions. One thing he was very specific about, these flat tappet motors MUST use a high zinc oil or a ZDDP additive. Since he races these things, I’m sure he knows. Gonna use Lucas 30w break-in oil, and their 10w30 Hot Rod & Classic. He uses Valvoline VR-1 products in their race cars, but I’m never gonna see the abuse their motors take. Motor was bored .40 over, and the heads decked so I’m at 9:1 compression. He also installed bronze valve guides so no more rubbers! His build sheet showed all the individual cylinder pressures, I was quite impressed. This weekend I’m making room in the shop, and plan to start disassembly next week. Once the intake is off, I’ll port match the intake to the heads. All of the parts have arrived, so I’m ready!!!
 
Well my day went sideways early, plus rain moved in which killed a couple of jobs so I spent a few hours on the Ranger engine pull. Got the radiator, carb, smog crap, alternator, valve covers, and intake manifold off. I wasn’t happy with the sludge I found under the valve covers, but OMFG I wasn’t expecting what I found when I pulled the intake manifold. Although the old dude sure took care of the body & interior, it looks like oil changes were few and far between.....not regretting the long block purchase at all.........:D
 

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Well my day went sideways early, plus rain moved in which killed a couple of jobs so I spent a few hours on the Ranger engine pull. Got the radiator, carb, smog crap, alternator, valve covers, and intake manifold off. I wasn’t happy with the sludge I found under the valve covers, but OMFG I wasn’t expecting what I found when I pulled the intake manifold. Although the old dude sure took care of the body & interior, it looks like oil changes were few and far between.....not regretting the long block purchase at all.........:D

That's uh... That's some crap.
 
Does kinda look like a turd laying there.......dude you wouldn’t believe how much sludge there is. Virtually every engine bolt broke loose with little or no effort. So much oil leaking everywhere. Funny thing is it didn’t run half bad. Started on the first crank, every time. A little valve clatter but it ran strong!
 
Does kinda look like a turd laying there.......dude you wouldn’t believe how much sludge there is. Virtually every engine bolt broke loose with little or no effort. So much oil leaking everywhere. Funny thing is it didn’t run half bad. Started on the first crank, every time. A little valve clatter but it ran strong!
Mobil 1 or synthetic of your choosing when you get it back together after break in oil. No more sludge ??
 
Mobil 1 or synthetic of your choosing when you get it back together after break in oil. No more sludge ??

The guy who built my long block was adamant about using high zinc oil or the additive ZDDP due to the flat tappet setup. They race these engines, and build 20+ a year to sell, so I’m gonna listen. Given this is gonna be a street cruiser that’ll never see more than a few thousand miles a year, I’m gonna use Lucas break-in 30w and then run their Classic & Hotrod 10w30. The builder uses valvoline’s racing oil that’s high zinc, but it‘s way too expensive. My 2003 though has run Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter from day 1.
 
Looks very nice and one of my favorite color combinations too ! .
 

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