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temporary primer for repair areas ?


yehaadon

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2013
Messages
59
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Automatic
I am currently fixing some areas inside my B2, I would like to repair them all and then paint . What is a good temporary primer or something that would protect it from rusting until I get them all done ? something I can easily weld through or clean off?
 
get a primer sealer, not just a primer...
 
Tell me what your long range plan is and if you will be using a spray gun?
 
I would hit it a lick and a promise with a wire wheel/brush feather it out to good clean steel and use Rust Reformer.

If its going to be like that a while I would use Diamond Hard over the RR
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XKH814?tag=959media-20
The satin is my favorite color. I buy it by the case for frames. Plus it is an exact match for Kirker Hot Rod black.

I've welded through the rust reformer. Never tried the Diamond Hard. I've ordered a bunch of tinning butter from East Wood and am going to start doing lead bodywork (YouTube that) you'll never have to worry about the bondo cracking around your welds.
 
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I would like to stop the rust for a couple years untill I can buy another B2 . I want to tear this one all the way down and do the body right. but I want to seriously slow the damage down. plus seal up any holes.
 
Rattle can with spray handle is how I use it. Most of the spray ons in that price range are latex.

If you want to shoot it if call Eastwood. See what they have to shoot. I just spent a cpl hundred bucks with them. Great customer service and the fastest shipping I've ever seen.
 
You have to let me know what you are willing to do and capable of doing. I can tell you how to handle it with professional products and done the way I would do it. As far as Eastwood . . . way over priced and they cater to the homeowner who doesn't know better.
 
I usually go to Pivco. However the nearest one is 47 miles from here. The nearest town is 25 miles... I ordered 2lbs of tinning butter for lead body work and some epoxy sealants. Well worth the price.
 
Ive have access to a cheap gun, and a craftsman 20 gallon compressor, but I was just gonna spray it to protect it , I know its not gonna look great . just be solid and sealed up. Im willing to try whatever , If I mess up no biggie , its gonna get redone anyway. I ground out alot of the rust today . I definitely am not a pro , lol
 
Well epoxy or a moisture cured urethane primer is about the only primer that is waterproof as far as moisture getting through. However, if you have some badly rusted/pitted areas, here is what I do. First, get rid of as much as you can physically. Then treat the area with phosphoric acid. Then spray 2 coats of Master Series primer. If you leave it in MS, then at least spray some cheap spray bomb enamel on top. Or, after the MS cures, scuff it and hit with a couple coats of epoxy, I use Kirker because it cures hard and fast. If you do it this way, you will not have to start over when it's time to do the entire vehicle. You can sand and move on right over the epoxy.
 
where can I get the phosphoric acid ?
 
Primer isn't waterproof and a wire wheel will polish not completely remove rust.

On both counts don't use a wire rush except on heavy rust and do leave a primer without top coat.

Best plan get a cheap automotive paint to cover things up and resand before you do a complete repainting.
 
Primer isn't waterproof

please spare me . . if you read carefully you will learn. This isn't not the first rodeo as in this is what I do daily, what I taught etc.

yehaadon . . .

Phosphoric acid is available in many places. In automotive paint supplies it will be expensive :) surprise, surprise :icon_confused: But you can get it at Home Depot. It is sold as a concrete cleaner. How you use it is critical as well. When you apply it, use a scuff pad. Work it into the pits and other rust. Keep it wet!!!!! Do not let it dry. If it does dry any, re wet and work again with pad. Then when you are satisfied with the results, wipe it dry with paper towels. Phosphoric acid , when dried, will leave a layer on the surface. This is beneficial many times for applications that this acid is used for, but on panels that will be painted, it is not. That is why you need to dry it before it dries itself. Use some gloves as it will burn in small cuts etc. But it's a fairly safe acid to work with. You will find many uses for it. I use it to etch most bare steel before applying the first coat of primer. I also keep some in a container that I drop hardware into. I leave it in a couple days.
 
please spare me . . if you read carefully you will learn. This isn't not the first rodeo as in this is what I do daily, what I taught etc.

yehaadon . . .

Phosphoric acid is available in many places. In automotive paint supplies it will be expensive :) surprise, surprise :icon_confused: But you can get it at Home Depot. It is sold as a concrete cleaner. How you use it is critical as well. When you apply it, use a scuff pad. Work it into the pits and other rust. Keep it wet!!!!! Do not let it dry. If it does dry any, re wet and work again with pad. Then when you are satisfied with the results, wipe it dry with paper towels. Phosphoric acid , when dried, will leave a layer on the surface. This is beneficial many times for applications that this acid is used for, but on panels that will be painted, it is not. That is why you need to dry it before it dries itself. Use some gloves as it will burn in small cuts etc. But it's a fairly safe acid to work with. You will find many uses for it. I use it to etch most bare steel before applying the first coat of primer. I also keep some in a container that I drop hardware into. I leave it in a couple days.

Since the post wasn't directed to you I guess maybe you should learn to ignore it !
The post was meant for the OP.

The time between priming and painting always takes longer than you plan, so a cheap paint that can be sanded away with minimal cost is the best route.
 

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