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switching to a thicker oil? and some preformance mods?


rangers92

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Joined
Sep 20, 2011
Messages
82
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mobile home
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1998
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no F**ks to give
my 3.0 just hit 100k. so i switched to 5w30 from 5w20. is this bad and could there possibly be any bad side effects to this action? ive only used 5w30 for one oil change so far. i also wanted to know how to cheaply draw some more power out of my 3.0. i have already done the airbox mod and added a k&n drop in filter.
 
Your engine is designed to run on the recommended 5W-20 oil.
Increasing oil viscosity will decrease your fuel economy.

The K&N filter passes more dirt than a paper filter and contaminates your MAF sensor with oil. It will also contaminate your Idle Air Controller requiring it to be cleaned more often.

An under-drive crankshaft pulley will make it seem more powerful.
An electric fan will make it feel more powerful (frees up the minimal amount of drag from the mechanical clutch fan).

The most dramatic change will result from running smaller diameter tires (shorter) or numerically raising your rear axle ratio (yours is probably a 3.73, 4.10s will make it accelerate peppier).


Let the arguments begin.....



Welcome to The Ranger Station!

Might I suggest a bit of reading and searching on the subjects you are interested in? Start with the Tech Library tab located at the top of the page and continue with the Magazine articles tab.
 
thank you for your input. i will keep my k&n drop in but i will switch back to 5w20 with my next oil change. someone told me that when a motor gets old thicker oil help to fill in gap more? judging by what you told me this is not true.
 
The vast majority of people that have had CPS problem on the forums seem to run the thinner oils, so since my '00 was new I've run 10w-40 in the summer and 10w-30 in the winter and it's been continuing to run great.
 
Your engine is designed to run on the recommended 5W-20 oil.
Increasing oil viscosity will decrease your fuel economy.

The K&N filter passes more dirt than a paper filter and contaminates your MAF sensor with oil. It will also contaminate your Idle Air Controller requiring it to be cleaned more often.

An under-drive crankshaft pulley will make it seem more powerful.
An electric fan will make it feel more powerful (frees up the minimal amount of drag from the mechanical clutch fan).

The most dramatic change will result from running smaller diameter tires (shorter) or numerically raising your rear axle ratio (yours is probably a 3.73, 4.10s will make it accelerate peppier).


Let the arguments begin.....



Welcome to The Ranger Station!

Might I suggest a bit of reading and searching on the subjects you are interested in? Start with the Tech Library tab located at the top of the page and continue with the Magazine articles tab.



:icon_thumby::icon_thumby::icon_thumby:

Your truck was made to transport people and light cargo. Earl nailed it on the head. Those modifications will make it "feel" more sporty, but unless you swap a different motor in to it, theres not much to do with a 3.0 thats gonna make it a rocket.
 
dont want to make it a rocket just want some highend pull
 
they hit it on the head. i put an exhaust on mine as well as the airbox mod and e-fan. i didn't really notice much with the muffler. high end if anything. but the e-fan was a nice little gain in performance and economy also. i have yet to do the underdrive pully yet. no extra spending money...
 
The KN drop in filter is fine. Just don't over oil it when you clean it. Its those cone "cold air" intakes that really **** everything up. And stick with whatever oil Ford reccomends. Pieces of shit at Auction Direct put 10w-30 in my F150 when I bought it and you could hear the valves tick for a few seconds on startup. I drained that and put in 5w20, no ticking.
 
my rant on k&n filters, ok, a K&N filter DOES flow more air than a paper filter, i won't disagree with that... BUT, here's the issue...

K&N filters are designed to be used dirty, this is why they get changed cleaned at some ridiculous interval... in order for them to filter as well as a paper filter, they must be visibly dirty... K&N filters also decrease flow (like paper) when they get dirty, so the question is, when do these 2 things match? well, filter quality, is matched when the filter is visibly dirty, this is what K&N states, the flow rate on a K&N is decreased to LESS flow than a paper filter, before you can see ANY dirt, much less actually be dirty... so there is actually a good period of time where the filter is flowing less air into the motor, and actually letting more dirt in, than a paper filter... this is NOT what i want protecting my engine... not that the engine won't just pass it all through the cylinders, it's where it gets trapped before the cylinders... MAF, throttle body, on the outside of the injectors right at the valves... all of this dirt decreases efficency and power, and in the long run causes you more maintenance issues
 
Good thing I saw this, I have a K$N drop in also... *heads to AMSOIL site for dry high flow filter*...
 
well is it okay that i keep my k&n filter, kinda don't want to switch paid 60 for it. i know it might flow better but filter less but that's okay with me.
 
i should clarify, it will flow more, and filter less, for MAYBE a month... after that, it filters worse, AND flows less for a period of time, and then it filters better than paper, but flows maybe 1/2...

honestly, if you want performance, and not worried about filter quality, take it right out... you will actually have better results with no filter, as the oil from the filter won't get on things, and make everything sticky for dust to stick to...

personally, i stick with the paper filters... if it's good enough for ford to use from the factory, it's good enough for me... and as for actual hp gains, i've yet to see an actual independent study be done on it, and post positive results...

the reason for these issues? simple! there has been several people who have cut open a K&N filter, and a paper filter for the same car, the paper filter has roughly double the filter media, when stretched out, this gives double the surface area to get dirty, and double the surface area to allow air to flow though... don't you think that if they were that much better, ford would put them on atleast one model from the factory, be it a GT500, boss, mach 1, gt, shelby, svt... but to the best of my knowledge, they ALL come stock with paper filters, not even variants of the K&N (oilbath) style...
 
i get it. but keeping my k&n isnt bad right. i mean i know now that paper filters are better but they are both good to use right? i guess what im saying is i dont have to ditch my 60 dollar investment for a paper filter do i.
 

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