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Still no power....pulling hair out...


I have deleted the codes a few times, and got a pass code on everything right after, but i didnt pull the battery cable. Ill try that.
 
eco booooooooooooost.
 
booooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooosssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssttttttttttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
In 1987 there should be 3 parts to the EGR system

EGR Valve bolted to the intake manifold, has 1 vacuum hose

EGR solenoid, has 2 wires and 2 vacuum lines, it has 12volts with key on, computer then pulses the Ground wire on this to send a little or alot of vacuum to the EGR Valve, one vacuum hose goes to the intake manifold the other vacuum hose to the EGR Valve

EGR sensor, just has 2 or 3 wires, it tells computer how far open EGR Valve is, this is usually bolted to the EGR Valve
Image of sensor here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Valve-...wFbGogG&fits=Year:1987|Make:Ford|Model:Ranger
 
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booooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooosssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssttttttttttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You know we are talking about a 2.9 with 86TM heads, right?

If they aren't already cracked that much boost will probably just blow the heads straight off.

Maybe fewer Os and Ss and Ts, and a smaller font.
 
In 1987 there should be 3 parts to the EGR system

EGR Valve bolted to the intake manifold, has 1 vacuum hose

EGR solenoid, has 2 wires and 2 vacuum lines, it has 12volts with key on, computer then pulses the Ground wire on this to send a little or alot of vacuum to the EGR Valve, one vacuum hose goes to the intake manifold the other vacuum hose to the EGR Valve

EGR sensor, just has 2 or 3 wires, it tells computer how far open EGR Valve is, this is usually bolted to the EGR Valve
Image of sensor here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EGR-Valve-...wFbGogG&fits=Year:1987|Make:Ford|Model:Ranger

That EGR postion sensor doesnt live anywhere on my truck. Adsm told me about it to, i think it was just on the 4 bangers. My EGR valve has no where to even bolt that thing to. However, the 2.3 EGR does.

Mine has a little black box with a pulse tube running to it that sits right next and kinda behind the TB. Im beginning to think that is whats causing alot of these issues. Ive unplugged it and it made no difference in how the truck ran. Im going to order one here as soon as i finsh typing this.

Looks like this...

4
 
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That looks like a MAP sensor, but it is an EGR sensor as listed at Autozone for 1987 2.9l

Where does that vacuum hose run to?
Is it "T"ed to the EGR valves hose?

The MAP sensor already reads intake vacuum levels, so only thing I can think of is that it reads vacuum level at EGR valve, but that should be no vacuum at idle.
 
That looks like a MAP sensor, but it is an EGR sensor as listed at Autozone for 1987 2.9l

Where does that vacuum hose run to?
Is it "T"ed to the EGR valves hose?

The MAP sensor already reads intake vacuum levels, so only thing I can think of is that it reads vacuum level at EGR valve, but that should be no vacuum at idle.

Theres no vaccum to it. It has a vaccuum looking hose that comes off the egr up to the nipple on it. When you pull it off you can feel a bunch of hot exhaust coming thru it, then as you rev the motor the flow slows then stops.

So im *thinking* it reads the amount of EGR flow. So if its Not recongizing the EGR flow stopping (which, it does) then thats prolly why the ECM thinks the EGR is not closing, possibly causing (atleast some of the) issues im having.

Im not holding my breath, but after i realized the dist cap had come loose it didnt feel off time or as flaccid once you strung it out, still kinda weak though and is wanting to flood at idle. And according to Dr Google these are all signs of an EGR pressure sensor taking a shit.
 
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Both my '86 2.9 and my '87 2.9 had/have the EGR position sensor you have pictured. In fact, I've never seen any other type on an '86 or '87 2.9. The vacuum line from the sensor is connected to the exhaust side of the EGR valve. The sensor detects the difference in pressure when the egr valve is opened by the EGR solenoid.

If you get the vacuum lines on the vacuum reservoir reversed you will have no vacuum to open the EGR valve. Contrary to the Innova Code Reader manual, the Haynes manual states that code 33 is "EGR valve opening not detected". The vacuum reservoir has a check valve in it to prevent vacuum from escaping when the engine is not pulling a strong enough vacuum to reliably open the EGR valve. The vacuum reservoir port facing the front of the truck goes to the vacuum tree, the rear port goes to the lower port on the EGR solenoid, the upper port of the EGR solenoid goes to the diaphragm side of the EGR valve, and the port on the exhaust side of the EGR valve goes to the EGR position sensor. I would have mentioned the vacuum reservoir earlier, but I made the mistake of relying only on the Innova code reader manual to explain the codes.
 
I dont have a vaccuum resevor like you describe. I got a solenoid with a electric plug and 2 ports facing in toward the motor, one vaccuum line going to the valve, one to the intake port.

The EGR seems to be functioning properly, plus its a brand new valve. I got exhaust pulse thru the feeder hose that lessens as i rev, so really all thats left is that damn sensor.


.....unless its a wire......which im praying its not....
 
The vacuum reservoir is mounted under, and is the support for, the air filter housing. I've never heard of an '86 or '87 that didn't come with one.

The Ford Engine/Emmisions-Diagnostic manual states

"The Vacuum Reservoir stores vacuum and provides "muscle" vacuum. It prevents rapid fluctuations or sudden drops in a vacuum signal such as those seen during an acceleration period".

I read that as saying there may be times when the engine is not producing enough vacuum to open or keep open the EGR valve, so Ford installed a vacuum reservoir to supply stored vacuum at such times as when the ECU expects the EGR valve to be open, yet when there is currently not enough vacuum to open it or keep it open long enough until engine vacuum increases.

s-l300.jpg
 
Exhaust manifold pressure sensor makes sense for the pictured EGR sensor.

Yes, it would need a vacuum reservoir somewhere for EGR system to function because it needs stable vacuum level during acceleration when intake vacuum drops lower
 
The EVR opens and closes the EGR according to input from the map senser. With low manifold pressure the computer closes the EGR. The position senser on the EGR tells the computer it is opening and closing. From manifold vac it goes to the reservor to the evr and then to the egr. The Evr has a filter on it to allow filtered air in to close the egr. You can watch the egr control pressur by putting a tee in the line going to the egr and then do a KOER test the computer will apply vacuume pressure to the egr looking for input from the position sender on the egr. Just guessing here but it sounds like the evr vent is plugged and is keeping the egr open when it should be closed.
 
I guess ill pull the airbox then and look into that.

But now the damn thing wont idle either.
 
Did you replace the evr? The round cap has a filter under it you may be able to pull the cap and just shoot some wd through the vacuume line going to the egr that valveshould be open with the engine off?
 

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