BigBlueRanger
Well-Known Member
anyone know what the torque spec is for the front spindle nut on a 4x4 06 4.0 ranger.
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4X4 Junkie said:Tighten to 35 ft-lbs, then back it off and retighten to 15 in-lbs (or just snug by hand). Next is the locking washer (with the holes in it). Make sure the pin indexes a hole (turning the washer over will help if it doesn't line up. Don't loosen the nut). Now the outer nut. Tighten this nut to at least 150 ft-lbs. (I have found 200-225ft-lbs. to work better at keeping things tight. These nuts are known to back off if not tightened enough).
You mean the large nut on the end of the CV shaft? 184 ft lbs.
The shop manual gives 184 ft lbs as the spec. My gun hits 150 to 160 ft lbs on the low setting at the pressure we run in my shop. I put it on low and run it until it stops. In reality the half shaft nut is not a torque critical item like a head bolt or a main bearing cap and tight enough is tight enough.
A big part of working on cars professionally is learning what is torque critical and what isn't. There is a torque spec for everything down to the screws that hold the splash shields on. If you work flat rate and torque every screw to spec you will never make any money.
i am uneasy telling the uninitiated that type of info.
but its 100 percent agreeable by me.
adsm08 only thing different i suggest to you on this particular type of situation is once it stops...always check that type of axle hubnut to make sure its 150-175. unless you have perfect shop air all the time. my guns range a bit even though i keep the air regulated to 90-95 psi and the compressor kick in is 92 psi... there can be quite a bit of seasonal variance based on last time i oiled/air temp and ambient temp are big factors and why i suggest you check the big nuts.
i only say this because i have had problems....but never had any problems till the first one. you can do something 400 times in good faith....401 might be the one that bites you in the ass.