Shop time/cost for replacing RA bushings?

[exbass94]

How many hours of labor would a shop charge for replacing radius arm bushings on a 94 Explorer? Do I need to get an alignment after? I'm trying to see if I can afford to get this done now, or if I need to save up some more.

 

[Will]

Pretty easy to do yourself, look under there. You need to put it on stands, grind a few rivet heads off, remove bracket, put back together with bolts. You'd have it done before you even decided where to take it to get it done. You shouldn't need to get it aligned.

Do it in baby steps if you want. Spend 10 minutes a day this week grinding a rivet a day and putting a bolt it. Then break the nuts on the arms loose and retighten them on the next day. On the weekend you can set aside an hour to jack it up and change the parts.

 

[exbass94]

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing Will. But, I'm pretty short on time these days, and I don't have many tools to do it. I'd need to buy a grinder, probably an impact gun (and sockets, air compressor, air hose....all are on my wishlist and I WILL buy them eventually, but really short on cash now). If a shop won't charge too much, I think it might be worth it. If I already had the tools, I would definitely do it myself.

 

[exbass94]

Also another question, in case I decide to do it myself. I know I need Grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets. Is there such thing as grade 8 nuts? Or will pretty much any nut that threads on work?

 

[feellnfroggy]

Depending on how solid your radius arms are(how much wiggle) You can get a wood chisel or clean edge heavy duty chisel and hammer hte head off some rivets. Depending on the strength of the rivet. Even without alot of time, Will has given you some great info as 10 minutes a day means you sacrifice what? a cup of coffee? LOL. I think you might just be alittle short on motivation,. best thing is to just get out there and start. A set of box wrenches should be all you need, you can even buy them one at a time from the parts store as you need them and you'll still come out way cheaper than having a shop do it. The average shop charges 80 per labor hour. The mechanic doesnt base his charge on how long it takes either, its based on what the book says it will take. Unless he takes longer then he will come up with an excuse to grab an extra 80 from you.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

There are grade 8 nuts, as well as washers, etc. The pinch nut, a type of lock nut, is also rated at grade 8, but is not marked or colored AFAIK.

Richard

 

[feellnfroggy]

Grade 8 is always good, but im sure you can use grade 5. It depends on the shear load that is on hte bolts. For factory setup, you should be just fine with gr5.

 

[thisfords4u]

DO NOT go to all the hassle of grinding the rivots. That way to much extra work. You'll need an 1 and 1/8" 1/2" drive socket, a 1/2" rachet/breaker bar, jack stands, floor jack and a come-a-long, oh and some chain. Raise and support vehicle on jack stands on the frame +/- 6" behind radius crossmember.Doing one side at a time, Attach come a long to frame and outer portion of axle w/chain. Support axle on that side w/ floor jack. Remove radius arm bushing nut/washer and outer bushing. Tighten come a long until arm comes out of bracket. Replace bushing and release come a long. You may need to hammer radius arm sideways to line up again. You may also need to come a long the opposite direction. install rest of new bushing componets and nut/washer, torque as necessary. Repeat for other side.
I just replaced my axle pivot bushings, radius arm bushings, springs and spacers, packed the wheel bearings, and sway bar bushings on my wifes explorer, it took me about 6 hours. It actually took longer cause I cleaned and painted everything, more like 10.
Hope this helps. Rob

After writting all this I looked at your year vehicle, not sure if its the same or not. I'll go research it.
After rereading your post I reallized its your 94 ex not your 06 truck, so its exactly the same

 

[88_Eddie]

if you take it somewhere, your gonna pay for parts, supplies, labor and some sort of BS shop fee or disposal fee. i'd say no more than $200 but that's if you take it to "henry's garage". expect to pay more if you take it somewhere like just tires, NTB, merchants, etc.
(and btw, i had to pay meineke $450 to change a ball joint a few months back on my explorer FOR ONE FREAKIN SIDE. a ball joint at my work costs $23.99 BEFORE my discount.)

I'd need to buy a grinder, probably an impact gun (and sockets, air compressor, air hose....all are on my wishlist and I WILL buy them eventually, but really short on cash now).

you could buy at least half of that stuff for what it would cost to take it somewhere

 

[Nhaz]

I gotta ask. Why are you taking the radius arm brackets rivets out?

There is no need. The bushings can be replaced without ever touching the bracket.

Local price on those bushings was 35 dollars for the kit. Time, about a hour. maybe less. Mostly getting the large 1 1/8th" nuts off.

Break the nuts free on the ground or on ramps. I would hesitate doing it on stands or on a jack due to the amount of torque you need to apply to get the nuts lose. Think breaker bar and leg power. =>

Once they are lose put it on the jack stands and take the nuts off. Push the TTB forward. The axles drop pivot point has a flexible bushing in it it should be able to tilt far enough forward to pull the radius arm out of the bracket. If not then the spring and the shock need to be unbolted. Use a floor jack under the TTB to hold it up while allowing forward and backward movement. The spring is easier then you might think, you drop the socket down the center of the spring from the top with a universal on it and a extension.

 

[exbass94]

Thanks guys. I do have an honest mechanic my family has been going to for decades, he never overcharges and is very reasonable. But I'm gonna get some tools and begin tackling this myself this week.

 

[ASMODEAN]

This must be the week for R.A. bushings. I had mine start popping and creaking on the way back from picking up the banner...

 

[Will]

I did mine a long time ago by pulling the axle forward with a come-along. It took so much force I don't recommend it. You are putting unusual force on your old pivot bushings and whatever else. Cutting these rivets is worth it. If you ever need to pull the tranny you'll definately want that crossmember out of the way. if you put on a good lift, you'll definately want that crossmember in the garbage.

Buy a $15 grinder and some thin cutting wheels. Don't try to grind the head into dust. A narrow wheel focuses the power and it goes quick. When a rivet is installed it is hammered into place and the shank swells while the head is formed. It's better than a bolt because the shank grows as you pound it and it is tight both ways where-as a bolt is only tight one way. That means that there will be zero movement between the parts. It also means that even after the head is cut off, you will have to pound the shank out as it is swollen tightly inside the hole.