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Rebuild log '94 3.0 5sp 2wd ext cab - New truck, new problems!


christw

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2013
Messages
47
City
Ohio
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Build log '94 3.0 5sp 2wd ext cab - New truck, new problems!

Skip to the red * to avoid the long winded version! :D

Hi guys, I've been lurking this website all week since a "buddy" of mine showed up with a '99 Ranger 3.0 + 4R44E auto ext cab (121k mileage) and asked for help. It's been a great resource for rebuilds, repairs, and general maintenance. Long story short, was in average craigslist condition-I don't care to guess the last time fluids were done (if ever), cab side bed mounts were rusted out, the separator plate was leaking slightly. While neck deep in labor and parts he screwed us on money, so he's SOL now. Despite all this, it was still a really nice truck. I got the bug...

Fast forward to Friday and I see a ranger on CL for $500. 211k miles on the truck with a little surface rust and dents. It was a beer truck in a former life and more recently, a light duty work truck for a master mechanic/shop owner around here. New fluids, gas tank, fuel pump, wheel bearings, brakes, tires, wheels, plugs, r/s leaf spring, and more things I can't even recall. Why so cheap? He cracked the head during his winter tune up (a ratchet angle piece broke on a stuck plug leading him to smack it with the handle) and couldn't manage to replace it due to a bad back. Sounds like BS but the proof is in the truck and it's condition. Everything is really clean. Plus he was a really nice, genuine guy. I have no doubts this is a solid truck that needs very little besides time to get road ready.

The worst part was the two block tow strap ride home behind my father's F-150. He hit it too hard turning into my drive and I was left blocking the road with a dead truck, uphill into an uphill drive, with 10 cars behind me. Thankfully my brother and I got it in the drive before my oblivious father even realized I was unhooked. * The truck was home. It was time for a beer and to order parts. :beer:

All in, I've spent $1031 to get it ready as a daily driver and a transport for when I head to Nashville twice this coming year to record on some good friends albums.

Costs breakdown:

Truck - $500
TSC box - $60
Rebuilt Head + valves - $170
Gasket set - $45
Starter - $94
Oil + filters - $58.16 (2 changes worth)
Lock cyl + keys - $34.98
Head bolts - $18.99
CL wheelset - $50

Work done so far:

-Starter install (Sorry, no pics!)

-Remedy the half-rusted out tailgate handle with anything on hand. It's two half assed pieces of aluminum working in tandem to hold the pivot point of the handle in place with some extra and somewhat pointless bends for rigidity. It'll last me 'til the end of winter at least. (3rd pic)

-More to come! I will try to document the tear down. I know it's been done before on here but having extra perspective helps everyone.

Work ahead:

-Replace head (and all the work that goes into that it)
-Flush coolant and any oil in the system
-Flush oil & any potential water in the system
-Replace the busted lock cylinders
-Install snow tires before snow & salt
-Trade the box for a cap ASAP
-Clean & paint underbody before snow & salt

In the farther future:

-Do something more permanent than clothespins to remedy occasional vapor lock
-Add a capacitor in parallel to the car battery (Alleviate stress on the electrical system and battery during instant peaks, be it a subwoofer or starts)
-Budget minded 4.1 stereo install
-Install a year appropriate 8.8 L/S diff


Oh yeah! I'm pretty sure that's a face lifted 2.3 Ranger front end. (It has the 2.3 pulley diagram and different pinstriping.) The rest, besides the body panels, is still stock white with no evidence of damage.

1277512_10200861062034793_233017599_o_zps8a9c7b8a.jpg

1448_10201918899041735_1741623968_n_zps6bdc8c2c.jpg

IMG_1554_zpsf12cb1d2.jpg


Update- With the box

box1_zps532fb319.jpg
 
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Welcome to TRS Chris~!

Looks sorta like mine but only yours is a better beater...must be a music thing...:)

That latch looks interesting...but it probably works...probably find a working one in the junkyard or just grab a whole tailgate...except it might mess up the colour scheme you got going there...

Anyway, I'm sure you will have more positive input than I can provide right now...in a similar process where I'm piecing things together...:icon_thumby:
 
Thanks! I might've had a beer or two and was feeling creative. I just eyeballed everything and made sure I could squeeze it in there without removing anything. It's a temp remedy until I decide to put more money into it. I'm building this on a budget of time and cash because I have two currently undrivable cars. My dd needs a clutch and this thing has yet to cost me as much as the upgraded flywheel + clutch assembly will.

I have a thing for beaters, even with instruments and amps. Quirky, solid, and reliable is perfect for me. :)
 
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There sure are a lot of parts trucks out there this season... I think I'll have found an L/S 8.8 axle before the parts even arrive! :D

With an L/S, I won't worry about winter tires. The ones I have on it are new anyways. Plus I find an open diff with understeer to be a lot scarier than controllable oversteer.


Edit.. well, no parts locally. The one hope was an '02. The axle is 1" wider on each side and the spring perch is 1" farther out on each side. Ruling that one out for now. I think I'll wait for an affordable year appropriate 8.8 diff (or entire axle) and swap that out.
 
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I found a 15 x 6" wheel set on craigslist for $50 today. They came from an '03 Caravan but are 5 x 114.3 lug-they'll fit the Ranger! I'll hit up the used tire shops next week assuming parts are here and it's running. I'm crossing my fingers I'll find at least two pairs of decent mud/snow tires.

$1031 spent and counting.

photo_zps961a099f.jpg
 
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Another day, another bump. The gaskets are here and the lock cylinders are here. The head bolts and head are both shipping cross country (TX/CA) so I'm waiting on them before I do the teardown. I think this will be a one day job with my brother and some determination with parts & fluids present.

I can't wait to fire it up! I've got a line on soo many parts locally it's ridiculous. Budgeting right now looks like: $150-$200 used winter/mud tires. $350 towards stereo, another $50 misc fluids, and the rest towards upgrades. There's a local place selling ranger/explorer parts for cheap. Leaf spring/diff upgrade? Maybe!

Edit: Oh yeah, my El Camino's out of my hair come tomorrow. Time to get serious with this truck! :)
 
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I ran with a set of 15 x 7" rims from a Jeep at one point...best winter tires I ever owned...the wider rims/tires gave me good traction...I think I have a picture of them somewhere...but they were the "star" type rims with I think 5 wide spokes...

Problem was, I could NOT find another set that were finished in the flat gray paint...all of the ones I saw afterwards were chrome...and I greatly dislike anything chrome (mostly because of the reflection from sunlight)...so I tossed them out a few winters ago...

Anyway, enough about me...lol...I'm about to commit myself to a $700 rolling frame from a 96...complete with fuel injected 2.5...and I figured there will be quite a bit of farting around with matching up my 88 extended cab with the new wiring and lights...and everything else...but determined to focus on two things: a) getting the cab on and b) getting basic wiring set up so I can at least drive it...

The fine points can come after that...

Those parts sure add up when you don't think about it...Eh~
 
They sure do!

That sounds like a lot of fun to me. I love doing wiring. I just put a 6AL2 in a '65 Ranchero that I rewired to run off of switches after the ignition switch went bad. ('76 built 302, Mustang II underbody, wheel wells, full disc breaks, etc). I'm finishing out my EE degree (worked Honda Marysville Auto Plant's PQ before, work on my own guitar/bass tube amps, that sorta thing). I haven't been to Ontario since I was dating a nice gal in Hamilton. I hate chrome too though. Especially when it's just pointless tacky flare.

All you really need to do is source those wiring diagrams, make a splice list (this = this) and spend a day being careful. Gauges and sensors are pretty straightforward. I can imagine warning lights and such might get a bit complex.
 
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My Dad was an electrician...unfortunately, it isn't hereditary...I can read diagrams and all that so it wouldn't be too much of a task...but what I was going to try, initially, was to transplant the steering column, pedals, and all that, adapt my Gen I dash to that, if possible, then just prop up the instrument cluster where the old one went...if it fits inside the old dash area, I might be able to bolster it with some sheet metal...

I saw someone on here did something similar with sheet metal but they used all new gauges...looked pretty sharp the way they laid it all out too...but the way I'm planning it (without actually measuring anything yet) might work...if not...plan B...or C...

Do you have any pics of the final product on that Ranchero? I'm sure there are plenty of people that would like to oggle that...:)
 
Well, you can see the back end of the Ranchero with the tires! ;) But seriously, I'll throw some pics on here next time it's out of the garage and not covered in motorcycle, Ranger, and RX7 parts. We've still got to put the new battery in and load timing maps.

I'm generally a measure twice cut once type of guy but it can be fun improvising like that.

_______

Update: It's raining... Locks will have to wait. I priced the cheapest full stereo I'm comfortable with on eBay. $247.83 shipped. With cash in hand for the El Camino later today, it's gonna be hard to wait for that head to get done before I end up buying more junk. I think getting it running is more important but this'll be in the back of my mind. :)

Looking at:

Kenwood KDC-155U: USB, 1/8" jack, adjustable parametric curves, subwoofer output, and 22w RMS / channel. $72.03
Audiopipe APQ 6803: super cheap 6x8's. At least I'll have the parametric EQ to smooth out this mess. $45.90
Boss Bass600 8" sub: Listed as 600w, realistically 100w RMS, 200w peak. Good enough to fill in what the head unit doesn't without rattling the truck apart. $89.95
Tsunami AMP500-MANL: 8 gauge wiring kit + 2 farad capacitor. I'll parallel the cap & battery via relay with ignition turned to on. $39.95

_________

Ranchero teasers:

Normal day around here...

ranchero_zps519d2e4d.jpg


That's ignition + accessory and starter in the middle there. Two switches control the fans where the radio pot shafts used to be.

ranchero2_zpsbff92c48.jpg
 
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The remanufactured head is here and the bolts are at my fathers. Once this rain passes, it's time to dig in!

head_zps65ce388b.jpg


________________

Just sold the El Camino. The 12 year dead end project is over with and the Ranger budget is a go! :D

elcogogo_zpsbf74df39.jpg
 
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Penetrating oil did a lot more work than I did today. Lots of pics, very little progress. I will do a very detailed write up on the head replacement once I'm done.
 
Update... It's going to a local shop. I'm genuinely worried I'm gonna break the bolts and studs before they break free. I had to throw in the towel and let someone else with more experience and facility handle it. $500 is cheaper than the alternative if I screw things up.


_______________

Current costs breakdown:

$1031 previous
Haynes Manual - $27
Tach - $33
Dollar tree misc (ashtray, floor mats, funnels) - $11
Misc lowes (naval gelly, tools) - $28
Estimated work - $530

Running total: $1660
 
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I have only generic experience with 3.0 and the Rat's 4.0 hasn't needed major work beyond the clutch and brakes yet. It has been 45 yrs since I've done a clutch on a pick up truck. It was a a major PITA to do the clutch. Rust, combined with inexperience in more modern Fords and my frailties accumulated over a life of physical labor, The job took forever to do. I broke more bolts than backed out.

I don't care, faced with that job, I would expect to spend way more time doing it myself, but I would give it a whirl. The last head R+R I did was on a CRV 4 banger. Took a month of spare time. Ive got a head job to do on a 30 yr old BMW.before spring. The head is coming off with both manifolds attached. I can remove any obstacle in my way to do this. I'll rig lifting gear if necessary. :D
 
It's back! Bushings are shot all around, no surprise. It's got a slight ping on one cylinder but that doesn't seem to affect it. The biggest issue is that it'll hardly run on cold starts in this recent Ohio weather (20-40 F). It does 4-500 RPM and it's rough as hell. If I gas it, it'll hold a steady RPM for 4-5 minutes and eventually bounces around 1.1-1.4k until full temp is reached. At full temp we're just fine with a normally 1-1.1k idle. If I shut it off and restart, it runs at 900ish and hops back to 1.1k as long as it's been under load recently. If temps outdoors are 50+, I can start it, it'll run 700ish RPM, drive it half a mile and we're back to ~1.1k idle. I'm not totally sure where to look.
 
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