Ok, I havent done a Ranger myself, just speaking generic issues I guess. What about radiator shroud to fan clearance? Moving the bumpers up to match the body, wiring, vacuum hoses, gas lines,etc? I've helped others on brand x's (including '64 Dodge body on a '78 frame and a '67 Catalina body on a 3/4ton Ford chassis) and its never as easy as it seemed at first, though alot of fun...
In the kits made for these trucks, all problem areas are addressed and cured. Radiator drop brackets and the fan to shroud fitment is perfect, no trimming required(this goes for all stock engines). Incoming fuel hardlines on the frame rails are addressed in the instructions to pop them out of their retainers and see if they'll go back in after the lift. Brake lines do need 'tweaked' a little to relieve some tensions, noted in the instructions. Include bumper brackets, although you cannot use the rear bumper to tow anymore, but who really does that? Again, in the instructions it tells you every where to unhook wiring, ground straps, etc before you lift the body. On every one of the 4 bodylifts I've done on a 98+ ranger, the battery/starter harness was unbolted from the block and that was all that was needed, again it was noted in the instructions you may have to do that. Ground extentions, fuel filler neck extentions, rad drops, steering shaft extention, if manual, you've gotta order PA #3700 to extend the shifter. But I always suggest people to get a Hurst short throw shifter and make their own extention.
My whole point is: These kits made for modern trucks are very well put together, very well thought out, and virtually no bases were left untouched and unnoted. The PA(Performance Accesories) instructions are top notch with detailed pictures. Shoot...the thing is like 30 pages long. They aren't your old school kits that were just blocks and bolts and maybe a bracket or two.
I've tried some old 33's on my rig (see pic above) just to test fitment. (Im also running the torsion bars at max height.) I found the worst clearance issue to be at the back side of the wheel openning closest to the doors when the wheel is turned (this was after I made more clearance in the inner fender area). I figured lifting the body (vertically) would not give the clearance (horizontally) that would be needed. I'm still planning on going to 33's but I'll be openning the whole fender area.
So, In my humble opinion, IT depends on what your after... If you want a tall truck with big tires to show off around town, I'd suggest using the full 3" lift as long as your lifting. Just remember not to turn the steering wheel all the way or it may sound funny.
I'm not doubting your experience or anything, don't get me wrong. You seem very knowledgable and can get your point across and your head is on straight. lol. I am NOT trying to start a 'my dick is bigger than your dick' fight or anything like that. Just trying to inform and correct in some cases.
I didn't rub with 32x11.50's on stock suspension(not even close to being maxed out). I barely rubbed the inner fender after the bodylift and running 35x12.50R15's on maxed bars. Same spot you described: rear of front fenders, namely the inner plastic fenders. Yes...moving the body 3" up is very effective to gaining clearence, even in the same area you were noting. Just like dropping the suspension components down 4" using a suspension lift.
And after bodylift, the trucks drive just as though they were stock. Only different is a slightly tighter steering wheel which I find great because these trucks, i find, have a loose steering feel. And no, full crank of the steering wheel will not cause weird noises at all. Just the same noises and feels the truck would have when it was stock.
S10's are different than Rangers. Rangers are different than F150's. Rangers are different throughout the years and generations. My point is, yeah, trucks are different. But when it's narrowed down to a generation of truck that's been covered quite vastly in the online world as to their results after a lift, the results may be vastly different than say, a 60's dodge and a 70's ford.
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I would like to have more ground clearnce so I want to run 33's atleast.
