Pulling the engine, what should I do?

[Pnwrager]

I am new to the forum and new to working on vehicles. I bought a 91 ranger stx 4.0l with the idea that it would be a good truck to learn on. When I got it home I noticed it was leaking oil. Everyone is telling me it's probably valve er gaskets, oil pan gasket, and/or rear main seal. From what I have read I need to pull the engine to access the oil pan and replace that gasket. I figured I would do all the gaskets if i have to pull the whole engine out. Is there anything else I should do while I have the engine out to avoid future problems? Thanks for any input.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Whoa! First Welcome to The Forum!
Stop listening to everybody and listen to the people here please, it will save you a lot of aggravation.
4.0s are famous for leaking on the intake manifold and the valve covers, so... to start at the top!

 

[Pnwrager]

Thanks for the welcome, I've looked around and seems to be a lot of knowledge here. I put some dye in the oil to see where it is leaking, any tips on how to diagnose?

 

[fastpakr]

Working your way down really isn't a bad idea. Finding a way to clean the motor can help immensely.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you end up pulling the motor, change the frost plugs especially the ones on the back of the heads.

 

[adsm08]

This is a project to approach with a mind set.

Do you just want to stop the oil leaks and drive, or do you want to work on the truck? You need to answer that before starting.

If you are only interested in not leaking right now, start with the VC gaskets, like everyone is saying, and work your way down.

If you want to get your hands dirty and take on a big project go get a whole engine gasket kit, an engine hoist, and a new oil pump, and yank that sucker out, do it all at once.

My advice for pulling the engine would be to pull hard because they are heavy.

 

[Pnwrager]

That is what I'm wrestling with now. I will probably drive it just keeping an eye on the oil level and where I park it while I assemble the parts I need, then go all in and get a crash course in auto mechanics. I've got a hoist and a stand so now I just need the gaskets and everything else. Thank you all for your input.

 

[Denisefwd93]

That is what I'm wrestling with now. I will probably drive it just keeping an eye on the oil level and where I park it while I assemble the parts I need, then go all in and get a crash course in auto mechanics. I've got a hoist and a stand so now I just need the gaskets and everything else. Thank you all for your input.

Knowing the folly of Youth and assuming you're young and full of energy you probably want to go full bore into this...

My suggestion, slow down.... Because most of the help you're going to get here is online, take lots and lots of pictures. (I use tapatalk) Start at the top, with bright light and start looking, leaky valve covers can drip down make it seem like the oil pan, lower intake can make it look like the front seal is leaking.... I've also noticed a few posts here on the Forum about the oil pressure sending unit leaking.

You may also want to mention the mileage, if it's manual or automatic, 4 wheel drive or two wheel drive

 

[Pnwrager]

The truck is a 1991 ranger stx 4x4 manual transmission. I do know feel that my youthful naïveté could get the better of me on this one. I bought the truck to use as a daily driver but I have a backup so I can afford to take my time with it. Also mileage is unclear. Odometer is 5 digit, reads 19xxx, so I'm assuming that it's probably 219xxx

 

[chewy012]

I'm gonna second the pull hard and slow down. No matter how much I remind myself to slow down, take it slow, I always end up getting way ahead of myself...

Also, not to add to your bill of materials.... But, while the engine is out.... Throw out bearing, clutch and flywheel are a good idea... You know, since you're in there and I assume the money tree in your yard is in full bloom.

I may be doing the same job sometime this summer on my '92 4.0 this summer

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

Hey, Pnwrager. Sounds like you’ve already gotten a few welcomes and some good advice. I to have read on here that you pretty much have to hoist the engine to replace the pan gasket, if that’s your issue (a real disappointment for me, as I have the same engine). But yeah, working your way down is probably the better idea, especially if it’s going to be your DD.

I’d like to second the idea of cleaning the engine up, then poking your head under the hood (and below the truck) for several days thereafter. Having it steam cleaned would be the best, but I never have the money for that kind of thing. So when I picked up my ’92 a few months ago, I did a little cleaning myself and learned a lot about where my leaks are coming from.

First thing I had to do one the truck was to change out the injectors, so while I was in there, I cleaned off about an inch of rotting pine needles and oily gunk (first by hand cleaning and then some careful application of compressed air). Followed this up with a trip to the parts store for a can of engine degreaser and a pressure washing of the lower parts of the engine (avoiding directly spraying any wires, etc). This can be really helpful in figuring things out and has the side benefit of getting a bunch of flammable crap out of your engine compartment. Just a thought.

Oh, and if you do end up pulling the motor, don’t forget that rear main seal!

Best of luck to you!

 

[Pnwrager]

I'm gonna second the pull hard and slow down. No matter how much I remind myself to slow down, take it slow, I always end up getting way ahead of myself...

Also, not to add to your bill of materials.... But, while the engine is out.... Throw out bearing, clutch and flywheel are a good idea... You know, since you're in there and I assume the money tree in your yard is in full bloom.

I may be doing the same job sometime this summer on my '92 4.0 this summer

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

Yeah I definitely feel like I could be getting ahead of myself, I appreciate all the sage advice here. I do feel there are some problems with my transmission too. Getting into 1st and reverse is a little challenging if I'm at a complete stop, I've read that's commonly a throw out bearing/slave cylinder issue. In your opinion would it be worth it to just replace those parts or get a rebuilt transmission just for good measure? I'm sure my synchros aren't in perfect shape so I'm tempted to just replace the whole thing.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Yeah I definitely feel like I could be getting ahead of myself, I appreciate all the sage advice here. I do feel there are some problems with my transmission too. Getting into 1st and reverse is a little challenging if I'm at a complete stop, I've read that's commonly a throw out bearing/slave cylinder issue. In your opinion would it be worth it to just replace those parts or get a rebuilt transmission just for good measure? I'm sure my synchros aren't in perfect shape so I'm tempted to just replace the whole thing.

Whoa again! It's more likely the hydraulic clutch, even if not, you need to rule that out first!

 

[chewy012]

Yeah I definitely feel like I could be getting ahead of myself, I appreciate all the sage advice here. I do feel there are some problems with my transmission too. Getting into 1st and reverse is a little challenging if I'm at a complete stop, I've read that's commonly a throw out bearing/slave cylinder issue. In your opinion would it be worth it to just replace those parts or get a rebuilt transmission just for good measure? I'm sure my synchros aren't in perfect shape so I'm tempted to just replace the whole thing.

My tranny was kinda of a turd to put in gear, but, new throw out bearing, flywheel, clutch, and new transmission fluid made a big difference. Also, if you think your syncros are worn, like mine are a little, I just double clutch. Doesn't help for 1st but if you give 2nd a slight bump before you go into first, that helps too

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

[chewy012]

Turd*

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk