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Project OUTRANGEROUS 4.6L Install / Phase 2


For those of you asking, on 1995 and new Rangers, the heater box is the same for AC and nonAC trucks. The nonAC version has no evaporator inside, of course, but it's the same mold.

Good to know :icon_thumby:
 
Heater box

Well I got a little time today and installed the heater box. It fit great :yahoo:
As an added bonus it even had enough clearance on the inside corner of the valve cover to install the transmission dipstick.
finalinst2.jpg

finalinst1.jpg

Another item checked off the list
071.gif


Finally received my Ford EFI fuel rail adapters from Pace Performance, only took 4 weeks.
bomb.gif
 
Yo should make a write for this and have it in the tech library for those looking to do this to their truck that is similar to yours.
 
Cold air intake

The throttle body intake on this engine faces the drivers side but there was no room for the air intake and filter box. I moved the battery over to the front passenger side and freed up that area but the CV air tube would not fit.
MOTORIN1.jpg

After much trying and testing I think I came up with a good installation. I searched the web for some ideas and found some guys being very creative and using some very unusual equipment. I looked at some speed shop parts for the intake and new air filters and found out quickly how expensive these units are. I didn't see anything that would fit my application without some mods so I decided to try and create my own out of available materials. A quick trip to Lowes plumbing dept. and I had a bag full of possibilities.:icon_rofl: I had the original 3.0 snorkel and air filter box but the diameter was too small however the connector fitting at the throttle body fit good and made approx a 60 degree turn which aimed it in the correct direction.
INTAKEFITTING1-1.jpg

30fitting.jpg


I cut the fitting just beyond the turn in the tube, I had purchased a piece of 3" flexible drainage pipe at Lowe's that would expand from 12" to 24", it also had a metal spring inside to keep it from collapsing. The flex tube kind of screwed onto the ribs of the rubber fitting on the throttle body so tightly that no type of adhesive was needed.:yahoo: It was a great fit and this flex tube would now get me down to the new filter area.
INTAKEflex.jpg

INTAKEFITTING2.jpg

I bought a Specter 3" conical air filter. I cut the CV MAFS out of the plastic tubing being careful to save enough material on each end for hose clamps. Now the flex tubing will clamp on one end of the MAFS and the filter on the other end.
INTAKE3-1.jpg

I cut 3 - 1 1/2" holes into the inner wheel well to permit some cooler fresh air in.
INTAKE1.jpg

INTAKE2-1.jpg

The air intake area will still be behind the plastic inner wheel wells so area should not be exposed to the elements. I welded a couple of studs in to mount the shield, the plastic is flexible enough to bend back to clean and change the filter element.
I took the CV plastic air filter box top and mounted it as a heat shield behind the filter to try and encourage more air input from cooler outside air.:icon_confused: We'll see???
INTAKESHIELD.jpg

Not sure how well the flex tubing will hold up under the hood ???
All in alll I think it came out ok.
INTAKE4.jpg

INTAKE5.jpg
 
Throttle linkage

Pulling the lose ends together on this build, the accelerator cable pulls in one direction and the throttle plate pulls the other so something had to connect the two.:icon_confused:
throt1.jpg

The original cable bracket looked like I could adapt it and bolt it down over the left side fuel rail.

fuelrail.jpg


There was already a stud available to bolt it down all I did was weld a couple of tabs underneath the bracket that straddled the fuel rail.

bracket1.jpg


bracket2.jpg


Just put it in place and bolt it down.:yahoo:

bracket3.jpg


Now for the other end, I used the two bolts that hold down the throttle body and made a bracket to hold a homemade pulley which will hold the throttle cable and reverse its pull.:icon_confused:.

throt1.jpg


I used a piece of 1.5" x 8" x .125" flat stock. and bent it up to fit.

flat2.jpg


I made up a pulley out of 1/4" fender washers with a flat washer in the center, these three washers were soldered together and put a 1/4" bolt through the middle.

pulley.jpg

bracket4b.jpg

bracket4.jpg

After test fitting it all I had to do was paint it up and bolted it on.

comp.jpg

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It worked nice and free. Should do the trick !!!
 
Looks like you could have saved a lot of work by flipping the upper intake manifold, but good progress!
 
:icon_thumby:





looks fine to me.
 
heck of a great job on this swap... real impressed with the job you are doing in your driveway..
 
Help!!!

I posted this under urgent needs also, hope I didn't break any rules.

Here's my set up. I have a 2001 ranger edge with pats and I have all the original pats equipment in the truck. I have installed a 2004 4.6 from a CV complete with new pcm from car. The car was a police car and the key is not a coded key (Ford told me that police cars don't use the pats or they have been bypassed for them??) All the wiring is complete now but when I connect the battery and try to start the engine I have nothing, the dash comes alive but nothing on the engine, no fuel pump, no starter. I started some trouble shooting and jumpered the last connection to the computer for the starting sequence which is to close the circuit for the starter to ground. When I did this the motor cranked so I don't believe the computer is turning on. My question is I have a complete pats system on the truck but the output of the pats is now connected to the new PCM from the car. Is the original pats system compatible with the new pcm or do they have to be a matched set. I have original key - original pats - new pcm, do I need the complete system from the car, key - pats & pcm.
Is the signal from the pats to the pcm a voltage that turns it on or is it a computer coded signal?
Thanks for any help, I was sure disappointed when nothing happened.
 
Thanks

heck of a great job on this swap... real impressed with the job you are doing in your driveway..

Hey, Thanks alot. your encouragement came at a great time, I'm having some problems getting this rascal started. See my post below. It will all work out, I know someone out there has gone through this before and "This too shall pass".:icon_thumby:
 
I posted this under urgent needs also, hope I didn't break any rules.

Here's my set up. I have a 2001 ranger edge with pats and I have all the original pats equipment in the truck. I have installed a 2004 4.6 from a CV complete with new pcm from car. The car was a police car and the key is not a coded key (Ford told me that police cars don't use the pats or they have been bypassed for them??) All the wiring is complete now but when I connect the battery and try to start the engine I have nothing, the dash comes alive but nothing on the engine, no fuel pump, no starter. I started some trouble shooting and jumpered the last connection to the computer for the starting sequence which is to close the circuit for the starter to ground. When I did this the motor cranked so I don't believe the computer is turning on. My question is I have a complete pats system on the truck but the output of the pats is now connected to the new PCM from the car. Is the original pats system compatible with the new pcm or do they have to be a matched set. I have original key - original pats - new pcm, do I need the complete system from the car, key - pats & pcm.
Is the signal from the pats to the pcm a voltage that turns it on or is it a computer coded signal?
Thanks for any help, I was sure disappointed when nothing happened.



run the system stand alone...one of the ranger systems is a dual type stage. cant remember the years...it would kill the command on the diode line
 
Good talking to you Bobby. Thanks

I have been searching the web for some info on these PATS systems and apparently there is a way to bypass the whole thing, seems that the crooks already know how to do it.( One of the articles I read referred to someone they knew who got caught stealing cars and he knew how to by pass the system.) I know it shouldn't be pasted all over the web but if some one is privy to this info, you could PM me the info. It's not illegal and it sure would make life easier for me right now.
Thanks
 
you know....i looked through this thread for intake and tb details and did not see them...

but the thing is, you should have drive by wire throttle on a 2004....were the ssv setups cable?


this will affect things dramatically if your not using the electric throttle assembly.

i would run a 98 or so non pats pcm and just direct power the diode for power up and use a regular relay setup on a single speed pump.

40/80 are the pins for the pump setup...
 
you know....i looked through this thread for intake and tb details and did not see them...

but the thing is, you should have drive by wire throttle on a 2004....were the ssv setups cable?


this will affect things dramatically if your not using the electric throttle assembly.

i would run a 98 or so non pats pcm and just direct power the diode for power up and use a regular relay setup on a single speed pump.

40/80 are the pins for the pump setup...

The '04+ 5.4's were drive by wire but I don't think the 2v's were for quite awhile after that (if they ever were)

I am pretty sure dad's '05 4.6 in his '150 is still cable.
 

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