Por 15?

[v8rngr]

As long as you clean it up some and not smooth it out to where the por 15 has nothing to stick to then you will be alright. I used it o. My whole truck underneath.

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[Denisefwd93]

Now that we have the frame protection covered...

What are you doing with the body work? Many of the inside areas that commonly rust out like the bottom of the cab corners, are accessible from inside is there something you can spray in there that will neutralize the rust it's already taken hold?

 

[v8rngr]

Do the same use the por 15 and brush oil it in. Same effect as the frame.

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[rangerenthiusiast]

Por 15 needs rust to work. its a chemical reaction with the iron oxide (rust) that turns into the coating. it doesn't work on clean/non rusted steel.

see Eastwood.com for details on rust products.

Well that kinda sucks. Good site though.

Not really sure where to go from here. I had hoped to bead blast out all the rust I could get at on the bottom of the truck, then hit it with metal prep and apply something like POR-15 Rust Paint, in order to get something deep into those pits, cracks, and crevices, in order to convert any corrosion that might be hiding where I can’t see it. What would happen if I used a product like that and some areas were totally clean? Would it just peel off in those spots, or would it provide protection but just not convert anything in those areas?

Should I just go straight to POR-15’s top coat after blasting and prepping? Or maybe use one of the other products on the site like the Eastwood Encapsulator product? Sorry for all the questions. I’ve just never used these kinds of products and I know everyone says to stay away from old-fashioned rubberized undercoating.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Only kind of undercoating I’ll consider is Fluid Film. That stuff never dries. I squirted my rear frame with paint after knocking the heavy rust off when I did a rear section, then hosed it all down with FF. About a year later and if you touch any of that, you get that greasy stuff on your hands.


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[rangerenthiusiast]

I used POR15 on my frame and suspension parts. Worked great.

I did wire wheel all of it though. Got rid of all the rust scale.

Is that the POR-15 Black Rust Paint? Did you use the POR-15 Black Topcoat?

 

[BlackBII]

Is that the POR-15 Black Rust Paint? Did you use the POR-15 Black Topcoat?

Yes it's POR15 rust preventitive semi gloss. I didn't use the topcoat.

 

[AdirondackRanger]

Por 15 needs rust to work. its a chemical reaction with the iron oxide (rust) that turns into the coating. it doesn't work on clean/non rusted steel.

see Eastwood.com for details on rust products.

This is not completely true. I did a ground up restoration on my fathers 1958 MGA 20 years ago and used POR15 on a clean frame with no rot or rust. It has not failed... and this is by no means a trailer queen. He drives the damn thing all over the place.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

This is not completely true. I did a ground up restoration on my fathers 1958 MGA 20 years ago and used POR15 on a clean frame with no rot or rust. It has not failed... and this is by no means a trailer queen. He drives the damn thing all over the place.

Good to know. Thanks, AR! May I ask which POR-15 product you used? They have a bunch.

 

[AdirondackRanger]

I'm not sure if they called it chassis back then.. but I'm sure it's the same thing. It was not top coated or undercoated. I do remember the UV light warning though. The stuff was so hard to clean out of the gun.. I had to toss out a older gun and get a new one.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

this is a depends...


...in rustville here if its full scale, like ya know.. scale...that will remain pitted if you hit it with a needle gun or wire wheels thats not something worth por 15.

...i have seen too many guys use por 15 when they should have disassembled the frame and wire wheeled or blasted it first and end up folding the frames pulling or running hard on the trail.

pulling all the rivots is a giant pia, but if a guy does that and then uses a por 15 and re-assembles...that chassis will be around longer then most people.


rust never sleeps.

Hey, bobbywalter.

Could I ask for clarification on a couple of points here? You mentioned that if the metal remains pitted after hitting it with a wire wheel, then POR 15 isn’t worth it. But then you mentioned that you’ve seen guys who should have wire wheeled or blasted their trucks before using POR 15. The situation I have is that my floorboards are heavily scaled and even have a few small holes. Other parts of the underbody are also rusty in spots, but still fairly solid. I was thinking of wire wheeling everything, then going over it with one of those small sandblasters. This would remove the scale, but leave things pitted. I was then going to patch any holes with new metal. At 160 bucks a gallon, would POR 15 do anything worthwhile in this situation?

I see that you also mentioned what a PIA removing the frame rivets is. While under the truck, I noticed that at least one of the rear cab mount assemblies (which is held on by factory rivets) is rusty in the area where the bottom washer nut under the bushing used to be (my bushings are all blown). As a result, the hole in the mount has become enlarged, so I’m facing either buying a new mount from LMC or trying to find someone that can weld some steel in there to stiffen things up (not an easy person to find around here, since there’s no real money in it for them, which I get). Since I don’t have access to a cutting torch, is there any other way to get those rivets out, should I have to go the route of buying new mounts?

Thanks a bunch.