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Por 15?


Denisefwd93

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
2,261
City
South East PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
stock, may get leveling springs in front "somday"
Tire Size
235
Hopefully I'll be keeping the ranger I just picked up a couple weeks ago, it's a 94 super cab short bed manual 4.0. It has the typical rear frame rust just beyond the rear spring shackles to bumper

Just wondering what kind of results y'all have had with this coating. Thanks!
 
this is a depends...


do you plan i keeping this thing forever, or as long as possible.?.?


would have to see it in person.


in rustville here if its full scale, like ya know.. scale...that will remain pitted if you hit it with a needle gun or wire wheels thats not something worth por 15.

so if you are not able to wire wheel fairly smooth and shiny, i would not waste por15 money and time on it. and never undercoat it. just treat it with prep and use good frame/tractor paint every few years.


better off getting a solid rear section of frame and using por 15 on that.

i have seen too many guys use por 15 when they should have disassembled the frame and wire wheeled or blasted it first and end up folding the frames pulling or running hard on the trail.

pulling all the rivots is a giant pia, but if a guy does that and then uses a por 15 and re-assembles...that chassis will be around longer then most people.


rust never sleeps.
 
this is a depends...


do you plan i keeping this thing forever, or as long as possible.?.?


would have to see it in person.


in rustville here if its full scale, like ya know.. scale...that will remain pitted if you hit it with a needle gun or wire wheels thats not something worth por 15.

so if you are not able to wire wheel fairly smooth and shiny, i would not waste por15 money and time on it. and never undercoat it. just treat it with prep and use good frame/tractor paint every few years.


better off getting a solid rear section of frame and using por 15 on that.

i have seen too many guys use por 15 when they should have disassembled the frame and wire wheeled or blasted it first and end up folding the frames pulling or running hard on the trail.

pulling all the rivots is a giant pia, but if a guy does that and then uses a por 15 and re-assembles...that chassis will be around longer then most people.


rust never sleeps.
I didn't use the word forever lol, mid-frame along side the gas tank and the f spring mounts seem solid, it is flaking but there's no swiss cheese that I saw.

the rear bumper, and very large trailer hitch is where the problem is beginning. my friend Hank is a very good welder so that issue is not a problem when we pull the bed. It needs to pass inspection even if I get the emissions waiver they're going to look at the frame, it seems like any mention of Ford Ranger= check frame!

Hopefully I'll have pictures next week when we start on the transmission I'm two hours away from the truck right now
 
Por 15 does have a webpage with their different products that may be worth taking a look at.
Yes and that is the first thing I did but it's always good to get real reports
 
theres a thread here with a kid that just did what should never be done and took pics. when i get a min i will fish that and post here.

my truck only exists because i was smart enough to not undercoat it.


the later rangers are made out of what i would call toyota steel....compared to the early stuff it is junk, so the inspectors are just wise to the cause.
 
theres a thread here with a kid that just did what should never be done and took pics. when i get a min i will fish that and post here.

my truck only exists because i was smart enough to not undercoat it.


the later rangers are made out of what i would call toyota steel....compared to the early stuff it is junk, so the inspectors are just wise to the cause.
I used something like POR 15 it on a windshield frame of 72 Vega about 40 years ago LOL whatever it was it turned it rust into something else chemically.

Oh and I guess you know Dorman makes some frame parts basically, Channel with holes drilled in them.
 
I used POR15 on my frame and suspension parts. Worked great.

I did wire wheel all of it though. Got rid of all the rust scale.

DQ5byN4.jpg


GIAYIiP.jpg
 
I used POR15 on my frame and suspension parts. Worked great.

I did wire wheel all of it though. Got rid of all the rust scale.

DQ5byN4.jpg


GIAYIiP.jpg
Now that is impressive!
 
I don’t know anything about POR 15, but they do make aftermarket replacement section kits of the frame that can be welded in. My brother bought a 2000 Ranger last fall and within 3 months, the rear frame failed while going down the road. I mentioned the kits to him and he ended up buying one and welding it in. It was some work, but he’s really happy with the results.
 
I don’t know anything about POR 15, but they do make aftermarket replacement section kits of the frame that can be welded in. My brother bought a 2000 Ranger last fall and within 3 months, the rear frame failed while going down the road. I mentioned the kits to him and he ended up buying one and welding it in. It was some work, but he’s really happy with the results.

Yes I mentioned it above. they are made by Dorman most stores can order them. My friend :icon_welder:is an excellent welder also. They tried to teach me how to weld wasn't:dunno: pretty...
 
Yes I mentioned it above. they are made by Dorman most stores can order them. My friend :icon_welder:is an excellent welder also. They tried to teach me how to weld wasn't:dunno: pretty...

Sorry, I wasn’t sure if that was what you meant or not, so I thought I’d mention it.

And, ha! Yeah, a buddy of mine tried teaching me to use a stick welder once. It was like trying to light a cigarette with a blowtorch. :icon_surprised:
 
Welding takes practice dont worry about not being perfect right off the bat.
Coincidentally I have lit cigarettes with a cutting torch before lol fortunately I've quit that disgusting habit bwfore I melted my face off.

That all said por15 isn't bad, in fsct its qyite the opposite. Just make sure you properly clean the metal first. And make sure there's actual metal for it to both adhere to and then protect
 
Is POR 15 a “rust converter” or does it just seal things up like Rhino Liner? I have a few spots on the underside of my cab that I’d like to bead blast, then hit with a good product for stopping/converting potential rust on the resulting pitted, but clean surface. I’d like something that will harden up and be paintable, not something that stays rubbery.

Thanks.
 
Por 15 needs rust to work. its a chemical reaction with the iron oxide (rust) that turns into the coating. it doesn't work on clean/non rusted steel.

see Eastwood.com for details on rust products.
 

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