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PlumCrazy's Build


that is my plan too, to run high steer eventually. Aligning it should be no issue, just have to do one end if you can't get it rotating the whole thing....like you said. I like this set up for a few reasons, the tie rod can't rotate or come loose and go out of adjustment, I am not relying just the jamb nuts. Also, I could remove the misalignment spacers, run bigger bolts and not worry about binding.

Copy away!
 
I have small update.

I picked up a DD gas saver so I could get the SAS underway, but it took a little while to get it road worthy so progress on the truck halted.

I drove the new DD for a few weeks (91 Honda Civic DX with full Si swap), but it needs a headgasket so I have to drive truck for a week again.

Anyways. I did pickup some 5x5.5 15x10s for dirt cheap. They need a good cleaning.
55wheels.jpg


I also got around to fixing the odometer.
Odometer.jpg


Now check out my classified ad so I can buy EB coils and get the D44 under the truck.
 
Small amount of progress made on truck. New (new to me) fog lights. I ran 50w bulbs in the last set and kind of melted them and then they got full of water and turned all nasty.

So I switched back to the 27w yellow fog bulbs. and used some newer housings.

new vs old
newfogs.jpg

fog.jpg
 
I finished putting my second M50D hybrid together.

I used a M50D-R1HD 4x4 for the housing and output shaft and a 2.3 2wd M50D-R1 for the gears, input, and countershaft. I also replaced all the synchros, tapered roller, and ball bearings as well as the seals and shifter bushings.

The first Hybrid trans I threw together was just to see if it was even possible, so I didnt replace anything but one bearing that I messed up taking it apart. I have been running that trans for over a year no with no issues. But the synchro for first gear is worn and the input bearing is a little noisy since I didnt replace them while it was apart. Not to mention I rebuilt it on my tailgate which was nowhere near as clean of an environment as I should have built a trans in.lol

I also came to the conclusion that the only thing special about the HD trans is the extra bellhousing bolt hole for the SOHC and the speed sensor on the tailhousing, which are both worthless to me.lol

I started by pulling the tail housing and top cover off.
m5r1hd.jpg

5threv.jpg

40m5r1.jpg

shiftforks.jpg


Then I bolted the trans to the table and pushed both shift collars down to engage it in two gears at once and lock it up.
boltdown.jpg


With the trans bolted down and locked up I broke the nuts loose on the output shaft and countershaft. And pulled everything for 5th and reverse out. I was careful to take out the whole shift shaft and fork together this time so the detent didnt pop out.
emtytail.jpg

revand5th.jpg


Next thing to do was take off the front cover, and midbearing retaining plate. Then work out the countershaft bearings and input/output shaft races. The countershaft bearing MUST come out in order for the countershaft to drop low enough to allow for the input shaft to be worked out of the front hole.
frontcover.jpg


Then I lifted out the outputshaft and countershaft. To get bearing midway up the shaft to let loose and allow for the gears and synchros I simply stood the shaft up on end and lightly tapped it against a sold table and the weight from the gears above pushed the bearing right off with not heat needed. same went foe getting the bearing off the input shaft.
23guts.jpg

mix4023.jpg

guts.jpg


I fully disassembled both trannies, and then to clean up my work area and reduce the confusion I assembled the 2.3 trans with the 4.0 guts.
23m5r1.jpg


I slid all the 2.3 gears and new sychros and bearings on the 4x4 shaft and reassembled the 4.0 trans. I made sure I lubed all the needlebearings and synchros with ATF when I put it together to eliminate a dry start.
emty.jpg

countershaftin.jpg

outputin.jpg


Alot of headache could be avioded if I started with a 4x4 2.3 or 3.0 trans and didnt need to do synchros. The shafts would be the same, so it would just be a matter of swapping the whole assembly, but 2wd 2.3 5 spds and everywhere and cheap.lol

Here is comparison of the 2wd and 4x4 output shafts
4x4vs4x2.jpg

4x4 is the top one, notice it is shorter and smaller in diameter since it doesnt have to support a slip yoke.

I got in a hurry and quit taking pictures towards the end.lol

I will be picking up my new LUK clutch soon and swapping out trannies soon.

Here is a little teaser pic of the D44 with some old 35's thrown on the new rims. I ordered my EB coils today. 7" coils from BC Broncos. With my bumper, and Supercab, I figure I will end up with around 9-10 inches above stock. I plan to push the axle forward a little so tires will clear by a mile. (maybe enough room to clear 37's some day.haha)
D44withtires.jpg
 
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nice write-up on the tranny rebuild :icon_thumby::icon_thumby:

can't wait to see the SAS.....

l8r, John
 
Im ready to toss the TTB.lol trust me.
 
Its finally happening.
attachment-2.jpg

The Dana 44 is under the truck.

Its just sitting under the truck now with the TTB springs, steering, and my RA brackets from my TTB setup.

I am going to remake the RA mounts to push the axle forward 2" and down and 1" to help with caster. If I used my current mounts the axle would be in the same place it was with the TTB which put the tires too close to the fenders for comfort. I still need to make a track bar mount, and steering linkage. I think the stock EB track bar is going to be perfect length, too.
wheel.jpg

Dana44rear.jpg


Hopefully my EB coils show up soon. I ordered them two weeks ago, and first they emailed me a week later and said they got the payment, but there was no description of what it was for, then they sent me another email a week after that an it that said the shipping calculator messed up and I still owed them 6 bucks.

Here is a pic of the new DD too.
hondatruck.jpg
 
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Found a set of Chevy 5.5" rear lift springs for dirt cheap. they look brand new.
leaves.jpg

Threw them in the backseat of the DD with the two trannies I picked up too.lol
 
I got an awful lot of work done this weekend while I was home.

First off. Here is a pic of the plug I made to fill the hole from the unneeded speed sensor in the HD trans. I made it out of some aluminum round stock. it uses the stock o-ring and retaining clip.

plug.jpg

transplug.jpg


First thing I got done was swapping the stock Chevy springs for the 5.5" lift springs. I ended up still using the stock block as well. The front ended up being taller than I had planned.lol When I first bolted the axle up the wheel was way too far back in the opening. So I drilled new holes in the blocks, and ubolt plates to move the axle back up. I dont think it will cause any issues.

toofar.jpg

fixed.jpg

offset.jpg


7" EB coils have arrived
coils.jpg


I made new RA brackets to push the axle forward a bit and lower the RA's for better caster angle.
bRacket.jpg

brackets.jpg

brackets1.jpg


I made a track bar bracket that uses the rear steering box bolt and a grade 8 1/2" bolt through the bottom of the frame. I am going to use the stock EB track bar for now. I made the bracket with plenty of room for a longer track bar. I ran a string from the pitman arm to about where the drag link will mount on the tie rod, and its only about .75" longer than my track bar and I ran the track bar parallel to that.
tracbar.jpg


I had an issue with my coils bowing really bad at first, but it turns out the lower coil seats were bent. I put them in the press and straightened them back out and then some to help keep the coil straight as the axle drops.

I forgot to grab a picture of the truck out in the open, so here is the best pic of the truck sitting at ride height I have. It will sit higher up front when I get the new tires back on. The worn out DC's are about 2" smaller overall than my Kevlars.
ride.jpg


My Dutchman axles should be home when I go home this weekend, so if all goes well I will get them in. I am thinking about throwing the Torsen L/S in there too.

The brakes are bled, axle is filled with new oil, and truck is sitting on its own weight. All thats left to get it on the road is the steering linkage, sling some paint on the brackets, put on the new front shocks, swap out the 5x4.5 axles for the 5x5.5 and swap the Kevlars onto the 5x5.5 rims.
 
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side.jpg

front.jpg

rear.jpg


Cant wait to get this beast back out into the wild.haha
 
Looks great bud, awesome fab skills. Keep it up!
 
Yup....looks killer :icon_thumby::icon_thumby:

X2 on the fab skills.....really nice work....

l8r, John
 
am a long time lurker here but man that truck looks identical to mine! i have a 94 ranger supercab same color as yours sasd with an ebd44 on 33 inch kevlars lol am gonna see if i can git a pic up here! your truck looks really good tho just a little taller than mine :icon_hornsup:
 
More goodies.

clutch.jpg

Now I can swap trannies when I get a chance.

I went ahead and made the tierod while I am up her at school since I know how long it needs to be, finished one end of the drag link, I will measure it and weld it up tomorrow when I am home.

tierod.jpg


Just have to swap tires and make the drag link and find some shocks and then its time for the initial shake down.

My Dutchman axles will be here in a week, so Ill rock out different wheels for now.
 
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Steering is done..

I used 1.5" diameter .25" wall DOM for the tierod and draglink. I put the tierod on top of the knuckle and used 3/4 rodends. Everything is 3/4" grade 8 bolts except at the pitman arm. It is 5/8" grade 8 with misalignments, but the bolt is in double shear so its just as strong if not stronger than everything else.
axle.jpg

0313111533.jpg

0313111532.jpg


35's look small now.haha Maybe I will look into some 4.56's and 37's next time.

My shocks should be in tomorrow or Tuesday, too. so other than rear axle shafts the SAS is done.
 
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