PlumCrazy's Build

[Bennybooster]

Sweet.........we need wheeling pichers!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[PlumCrazy]

First day of spring break and I have already torn the truck apart.lol

First off, I swapped the rear shafts for the new Dutchmans with 5x5.5 and I redrilled the rotors.

The hub fits in the Expoloder rotor perfect, I had the flange made to be 6.5" which is a little smaller than a standard F150 hub.

I drilled the first rotor using the axle as a pattern, then I bolted it to the next rotor through the original holes. I drilled them 9/16 to give a little wiggle room. The center hole keeps them centered anyway.

Back together

I have been doing a little thinking on how to run an aircompressor since there isnt enough room under the hood to run it off the belt, and I really dont want an bulky a electric motor taking up space, so I did a few calculations and found out that a Saginaw PS pump should be able to run my 5.5 CFM compressor. I have no idea if it will actually work out, but I have all sorts of hydraulic motors and valve at my disposal at school. The Saginaw pump puts out around 2 gpm at 1000 psi, so I should be able to run that through a little vane motor and spin a compressor. I am going to wire a electric over hydro switching valve to divert flow from the gear box to the motor, but only if the truck has the brake set and I turn it on.

For starters I went ahead and added a PS filter before my cooler to catch any crud that may tear up a motor.

Im sure I am over complicating the whole OBA idea, but I want to try something different.

Its mounted behind the driver fog light. Tucked up out of harms way.

I also pulled the trans out to swap in the trans and clutch. I smoked my old clutch this past week.

I did find out that newer M50D transmissions have a different top plate and shifter than older ones. I thought just the shifter was clocked differently, but it turns out the newer trans have a shorter throw which is accomplished by making the little stub shifter longer on the bottom half that engages into the shift forks.
I found out when I tried to swap stubs and it wouldnt shift right lol. the bottom one is the newer style. From what I can tell it appears the brake must be around 95 and up. Since all the 95+ trans I have are the longer style and the two older ones are shorter. The top plate on the trans is taller too. They added the height right under where the pins for the shifter bushings are pressed in.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I have some poser pictures from this past weekend.

 

[PlumCrazy]

 

[Robert_1967]

I don't know if it's just me or what but in those poser pictures, your front has very little flex, your back end is doing all the flexing.

Good job on the axles.




Robert

 

[PlumCrazy]

I don't know if it's just me or what but in those poser pictures, your front has very little flex, your back end is doing all the flexing.

Good job on the axles.




Robert

Your right. The coils are a bit stiffer than they need to be. I will probably be looking into something different, but they will do for now. I should have went with Deavers, but BC Broncos price was pretty good.

 

[WNY964x4]

this is giving me lots of ideas for my Bronco II build , looks like i will be investing in an EB D44

 

[AgPete139]

Great work, Plum!

Very nice.

 

[-Nathan-]

http://i454.photobucket.com/albums/qq261/plumcrazy94/DSCN2135-1.jpg[/IMG]

Yep, its in my write up on the conversion to an M5OD-R1 HD,

But yea, your rig is turning out awesome, some excellent fab work, done in a clean fashion. I like it.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Yep, its in my write up on the conversion to an M5OD-R1 HD,

But yea, your rig is turning out awesome, some excellent fab work, done in a clean fashion. I like it.

Its not just the HD though. I have a 2.5 2wd trans with the longer shifter too.

BTW Does anybody know if you can still get the little cover/boot that goes around the shifter stub. The one held on with the 3 torx screws? I have 5 trannies and they are all torn.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I swapped in the new transmission, installed new clutch, replaced both crank seals, and swapped my other two Kevlars onto the 5x5.5 wheels.

Next thing on my list is build a doubler for my poor old clutch's sake.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I swapped in the new transmission, installed new clutch, replaced both crank seals, and swapped my other two Kevlars onto the 5x5.5 wheels.

Next thing on my list is build a doubler for my poor old clutch's sake.

Im in a predicament mow.lol I really like my full length expo center console especially since my CB and amp are currently residing there, but Im not sure if I can make it work with the doubler shifter or not.

My plan is to try and keep it. I think if I use my current tcase shifter for the doubler and just shorten the the handle that way I can add a second shifter for the tcase next to it then bend the top over to get the handle away from my leg.

heres a crude paint diagram

I picked up a reg cab short bed gas tank to give me a little more clearance for the tcase, and I plan on chopping the trans cross member and adding an upside down U shape to allow for the front DS to come up during articulation

 

[explorerhavok]

BTW Does anybody know if you can still get the little cover/boot that goes around the shifter stub. The one held on with the 3 torx screws? I have 5 trannies and they are all torn.

I picked one up off Ebay a while back, I think it was actually a kit; it had the bushings, washers, pins, and that top piece that is held on with torx.

heres a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

There are probably more, that was first one I found

 

[PlumCrazy]

I drove the truck up to school for the first time since I put then new trans in. It did fine and the clutch actually grabs like it should now.lol I have been hearing a random popping and clicking echoing up my driveshaft for a while and I figured it was the r and p or tcase, but turns out.. I was just a ujoint. I pulled the rear joint apart and found nothing but powder in two of the cups. That makes 3 so far. Im assuming it is because it is the joint that spins in the water and mud and dirt and that eats up the seals.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Almost forgot.

Got the end of the doubler welded up. Im going to seal it with JB weld from the inside to ensure it is completely sealed and face it off on the mill to make sure it sits flat on the plate.

Here was the joint