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PlumCrazy's Build


when you get the setup going, tell me if you think the hyd motor could turn the compressor enough to run it with a full charge of freon.

this setup would help to have aircond, and not put more load on the engine since the power steering is always running.

I'm right now looking into trying to find a 12volt dc aircond compressor, but that idea isn't looking to good right now.


Robert



posted with a get well card and a box of candy.
 
The power steering pump cant handle the pressure that it would take to run an AC compressor at or above engine speed.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
 
Regardless of how you drive the AC comp, it will be require power in someway. The most efficient way to drive something is to directly connect it via belt or chain...(like stock) every time you change the method of power transmission you sacrifice power (leakage, heat, etc)

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Played with the OBA again last night...

Plumbed it up so the motor was in series with the box and hydroboost. I actually have the motor between hb and box just because its easier, but I will need it to be the first component after the pump if I end up with two pressure settings..

IMG_20131014_175055_228_zps02632ce8.jpg


It was flowing just over 2 GPM, so that means the the York was spinning right around 950 RPM(according to my bench test) at an idle, which puts the output around 6.5 CFM at and idle, and 12ish with my high idle kicked on.
IMG_20131014_175047_118_zps3047484e.jpg


My new issue is pressure.... I don't have enough pressure in the hydraulic system to build more than 70-75 PSI in the tank.

So I threw a gauge port in the pressure line to see just where my Saginaw is set.
Its right around 1000PSI. I am going to pull the relief out and pull a shim out, to bump it up to 1350-1400 PSI, since thats all I feel safe putting to the box and HB.
IMG_20131015_165836_956_zpsbf63dc5d.jpg


If I cant build over 100PSI air pressure, then I will bump the Saginaw relief setting to 1600-1700, and then add a relief after the OBA motor to limit the rest of the system to 1000-1200PSI.

Im fine with speed/flow numbers, so I don't think I will need port the HB unit or increase line size much, although I know it would probably help reduce back pressure on the return side that I am sure is driving my pressure side up 100-150PSI.

So I should be able to tweak things in enough to work eventually.lol Then I have figure out where to mount everything and start hard lining the hydro lines and control valve, etc.


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I am jealous that your wheeler has HB and OBA and my tow rig doesnt...
 
So will the air compressor motor run all the time?

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No. It will have control valve that bypasses the OBA motor it will be controlled by the air pressure control switch...just like a clutch on an AC comp.

I will also have a master over ride switch to disable the OBA when driving, so it can't engage and cause me to lose power brakes/ steering. I may wire up the parking brake as an "enable" input.

I am just testing the concept of hydro OBA, so I have not plumbed in the valve.

The schematic I posted will be how its plumbed when its done.

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I am jealous that your wheeler has HB and OBA and my tow rig doesnt...

Hydroboost on an OBS is 100% bolt on. Lets doo itt.

If I ever get another hatchback Civic...it will have OBA and legit tool boxes mounted in the hatch...like a little service truck.lol
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Hydroboost on an OBS is 100% bolt on. Lets doo itt.

If I ever get another hatchback Civic...it will have OBA and legit tool boxes mounted in the hatch...like a little service truck.lol
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Hmmm. I know I just need to get one off an F-Superduty. Someday!

I might pick up this little guy on Saturday. A buddy's car project. 119k. 4 heated leather seats. $650. Needs tires, one window track and a rod bearing (new ones come with it). Would make a nice work car lol
 
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I'll take it if you don't

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Im digging the Gen 1 crew cab Dog...

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With the hydro assist cylinder I have been fighting to keep fluid in the reservoir. When I turn to the left the amount of fluid coming out of the cylinder is more than the attached Saginaw resi can hold.

So I started scrounging around for external resi candidates.

I picked up an external resi from an Astro van a while back, but it seemed a little small still.

I came across an old AC filter/ drier from our combine that I had replaced. I thought I could just punch holes in it, gut the desiccant junk and screen out and weld in bungs.
IMG_20131009_180222_595_zpsa8ff2fb3.jpg

IMG_20131009_181342_650_zpsa218b5e6.jpg


Turns out its in there pretty good.lol
IMG_20131009_183057_533_zps26b48be5.jpg


I ended up salvaging the end caps and welding them to a piece of 4" exhaust pipe. I cut the fill cap out of the Astro resi and welded it into the top, then welded in a 1/2 NPT bung in the bottom.
IMG_20131009_190431_417_zpsce4e0978.jpg

IMG_20131009_191448_599_zps75c59f06.jpg

IMG_20131009_192330_479_zpsaba3c82b.jpg

IMG_20131009_192635_889_zps9111f0b0.jpg

IMG_20131017_170418_511_zps288192a3.jpg

IMG_20131017_171859_930_zpse5bb6eeb.jpg


I am too cheap to buy real bungs, so I cut a bunch of couplers in half.lol
IMG_20131017_171914_047_zpsd13d6d67.jpg

IMG_20131017_174503_024_zps1f1901db.jpg


I put in enough for a sight glass, box return, hydroboost return, and a extra for a possible external relief valve later.
IMG_20131017_180248_974_zps73a656b9.jpg

IMG_20131017_204450_310_zps70cbecad.jpg

The welds look wayyy better in person. lol

I blasted it and powder coated it wrinkle black.
IMG_20131019_165009_036_zps81fd6e76.jpg

IMG_20131019_165442_846_zps447a6cab.jpg

IMG_20131019_203708_871_zpsa5187253.jpg

IMG_20131019_203652_509_zps5f94aa38.jpg


I am also going to bump all the low pressure return lines to 1/2 to reduce back pressure.

I still need a few fittings and a bigger cooler though.

I plan on running an Astro Saginaw pump resi and drilling my flow orifice to 5/32 as well as removing the shims on the relief. I am making a spool clamp to hold the relief with out marring or distorting it as we speak.

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Add another year, make and model to the list...
 

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