PlumCrazy's Build

[brinker88]

Lol completely understandable. I get to keep my ford rotor, it's just a different caliper/pad is all. I was lucky enough to find a complete axle with both knuckles machined/drilled/tapped with high steer arms and everything I needed for $150

 

[PlumCrazy]

If I hadn't already swapped to Thunderbird calipers I would consider it. I already have 6 bolt spindles from my drum brake knuckles, but I would still have to buy calipers and brackets.

I have seen Reids go for under 400 if you know the right people.

I went ahead and tacked on my tabs last night anyway. I figure if i go highsteer later then I will just build a new cover anyway since I will have the clearance with out the tierod in the way.

I have 3 months to get this done before Bundy. Sounds like plenty of time, but i get to distracted by other projects like the Bronco II and my 2wd.lol

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Cover/mount is done.

Then boxed.

installed/painted pics to come.

-PlumCrazy

 

[escort_gts]

Looks good.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[PlumCrazy]

-PlumCrazy

 

[036speed]

If there was a "like" button, i would be clicking it

 

[PlumCrazy]

If there was a "like" button, i would be clicking it

Lol

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Cylinder fits perfect.

I am going to use a spring going off the pass frame rail to the hoses to keep them pulled up out of harms way, like the way Ford does on the parking brake cables.

Bulkheads with disconnects will be on the bottom of the frame rail pointed at the inside. Should keep the hoses out of the tire that way.

-PlumCrazy

 

[escort_gts]

Looks good Seth but, don't like how the hoses on the cylinder. Might have something hit it....the way you drive and all.

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[PlumCrazy]

They will be pulled up higher when its done. I may swap the one 45* for a 90* to tuck it back in a bit more. Also may add a guard/cradle on the tierod itself.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Still waiting on my PCM for my 99, so I cant do much with the 95 since its my only set of wheels at the moment.

I did pick up some 1/2" tubing, hose, and fittings to redo my oil cooler lines. Currently I am using some old 3/8" trans cooler lines since they were prebent right where I needed them, but I am seeing a 3-5 psi pressure drop.

I plan on pulling the motor this spring and throwing in an oil pump, and getting some RuffStuff mounts. But I want to make sure the lines are not going to hinder the performance of the new pump.

I used to see 25-30 psi at idle, but its crept down to 20-25 over the past year.

I borrowed a nice 1/2 tube bender from work and got my tubes bent up.

Also picked up my quick couplers and and fittings for the cylinder hoses.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Picked up a steering box off of 1badexplorer this past weekend.

Tore it down last night, will be adding my hydro assist ports after work today.

Also scored a new Accel coil pack at Summits clearance sale for less than half price. My old one had a plug wire come loose once and burnt the contact all to hell, so when ever its gets really humid or steamy from a water crossing it would missfire on cyl 5 until it dried out.

-PlumCrazy

 

[escort_gts]

Looks like you will have the hydro assist before I will

 

[PlumCrazy]

Looks like you will have the hydro assist before I will

I am hoping to get the box in and start bending tube this week. I need to borrow my brothers 37* Flaring tool or break down an buy one though.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

Box is tapped. I went with -4 ORB ports and -4 to -6 JIC 90* fittings. I opened up the inside of the fitting itself to reduce the pressure drop.

Downside of working in a hydraulics R&D lab is that my camera lense is always oily and blurred.

Rebuild kit is in the mail.

Here is the burnt coil pack that was always giving me issues.

-PlumCrazy