tanbuddy
Well-Known Member
What kind of links are u usin for the rear? I never saw a setup like that before! THat thing should lay frame wiht that huge c channel in the rear tho!
-
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register
for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.
Pics of my project
- Thread starter TS6034
- Start date
It's a four link from Suicide Doors. They make them however you want. I went with this one because it's the beefiest one I've seen and this is a 5.0 truck with a T-5. I had the bars made as long as possible, hoping to plant the rear when I launch. Lol
The WATTS keeps the axle centered as the truck raises and lowers. A panhard bar works also but makes the axle move side to side. It doesn't move at all with the WATTS. Plus, I haven't seen many trucks using the WATTS.
The rear lift bars I'm just making myself. I studied a bunch of rear suspension setups that others have done and kinda "learned" how to do it myself.
I'm excited to get this thing running, there aren't any trucks like this around where I live. It's going to be on switches with 8 valves. And it does lay frame when layed out.
alittlelow
Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2007
- Messages
- 24
- Vehicle Year
- 94
- Transmission
- Manual
Your on your way. How big of a tire you laying out with.
I'm not real sure. I have the Centerlines from my last 5.0 ranger. They are just 15". I'm prob gunna use em for now because I'm broke and can't afford new wheels. The notch will allow for much larger wheels/tires and the front can be reset for larger wheels.
Nice man, I wish I had the balls to do something like that. LOL So how did you do the watts-link? I've seen kits where they bolt on to the differential cover plate, but have never seen one like that before. Gives me ideas................
The Watts-link is the way to go because of what TS6034 mentioned. A panhard bar would work but you have to set it up exactly right. The bar allows the rear end to shift slightly during compression/rebound. A spring suspension may not notice this at all, depending on how close to the wheelwells you are running. With a bagged truck, the suspension can have a travel of 6+" and that much of a change would be noticable w/o the watt-link.
James
The Watts-link is the way to go because of what TS6034 mentioned. A panhard bar would work but you have to set it up exactly right. The bar allows the rear end to shift slightly during compression/rebound. A spring suspension may not notice this at all, depending on how close to the wheelwells you are running. With a bagged truck, the suspension can have a travel of 6+" and that much of a change would be noticable w/o the watt-link.
James
I made the lift bars
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
Here is the lift bar crossmember with the tabs welded into it
[/IMG]
The super pivot welded onto the rear axle
[/IMG]
I started boxing in the frame
[/IMG]
The lift bar crossmember welded thru the frame
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
The lift bars in place with the bags mounted.
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
Aired up...
[/IMG]
Layed out...
[/IMG]
Layed out...
Hittin sides...
[/IMG]
Similar threads
Sponsored Ad
Sponsored Ad
TRS Events
Member & Vendor Upgrades
For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.
Recently Featured
Ranger Adventure Video
TRS Merchandise
Follow TRS On Instagram
