P2195, p2197 RUNS ROUGH

[modelageek]

Autolite APP5143 is the double platinum version(PP) for the 4.0l SOHC 2006 and up.

If you don't use double platinum then I wouldn't bother with single platinum.

I saw one listing at rock auto for APP5143 listed as closeout $0.77 each 12 left, but I would double check that they are PP, but even if they are not, 77 cents each! shipping will cost more than the 6 spark plugs, lol, and they will last long enough to meet their 77 cent price.

Yes the iridium are fine to use.

The 4.0l SOHC has a couple of hard to get to spark plugs, so the longer they can last the better, which is why the double platinum can be worth the extra cost.

I had to buy 8 plugs from rock auto(packs of 4). Still a good deal at $5 each for the iridium xp-5143. I got a new set of MC wires and a MC air filter too. All for about $95.

Installed the plugs and wires and truck is running very good. I needed a new MAF a week ago and between the 2 repairs the truck is running sweet. Pinging and other nonsense is gone!

I have changed easier plugs but not the toughest either. I removed the passenger side tire and inner fender to get at those 3 plugs.

thanks again for the help Ron. trucks seems to appreciate the new MAF, plugs, wires and air filter!

 

[RonD]

Good work

I put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank of my fuel injected cars/trucks once a year, they seem to idle smoother by the next tank of gas, so twice a year probably wouldn't hurt but I am cheap

 

[bjkeeling]

Had a similar pair of codes thrown that ended up being the factory MAF sensor at 304,000km and 21 years old - posting because this is the only place I came across a similar code/diagnostic challenge. I got a P1336 (cam/crank sensor signal mismatch) P2195/2197, and P0231. She very suddenly started driving very rough after I got off the highway at a stoplight. Ended up getting it towed. It was misfiring so bad, it would start but not idle. The shop said it was timing - they wanted to pull the cover... but I did the sprockets and chain about a year and 30,000km ago. Paid them $1,500 to swap on a cam and crankshaft sensor, and have them tighten the fan on crazy tight.

Got it towed to a buddy's underused shop, pulled the timing cover, sprocket marks checked out. Checked the camshaft syncro (OK), checked continuity of the CKP and CMP sensors to the PCM (OK), and decided it was a computer issue. New PCM didn't change it. Disgusted, I tinkered and kept trying the key, and suddenly it would start, flutter, and settle down and idle. The DTC procedure for P1336 did say to ignore it and move to other codes at some point, I guess the shop anchored my thinking.

I invested in a ForScan approved cable, and P0171 and P0174 codes once it ran. Had to leave it for a week, came back and did the fuel filter (cut it open, pleats looked dirty, but nothing crazy given it had 70,000km), measured the fuel pressure (over 60psi with KOEO, the pressure lost with key off over a minute was less than 5 psi [fuel pump check valve ok], and KOER it would flutter solid 65 or over). Pulled the IAC valve, sprayed carb cleaner, reinstalled, pulled the connector at idle and rpm dropped to 500. Confident there likely wasn't vacuum leaks I read this and pulled the MAF connector and it ran smoother, but shifted rough. With the MAF connected the trim was 30%+ (short + long) and after putting in a salvage MAF sensor and doing 50+ km was around 10% or less trim (short + long) - only code it throws is for a power window circuit. Shifts normal and throttle is appropriately responsive with the MAF working and trims reasonable.

Did a compression test the day before this schmozzle, all six were between 152 and 165psi. Did a head job for recessed exhaust valve seats a month before, and at that time pulled the MAF out and cleaned it. Proceeded to drive it ~2,000km, and then this happened. Should have checked the MAF WAAAY sooner, it visibly had plastic in it, either blown filament or air intake.

[EDIT] Looks like air filter gasket material blew into the MAF based on the feel/colour, I had recently fiddled with it when I did the compression test - seems the best explanation for it to suddenly fail. There looks to be an imperfection in the moulding/injection process. Still running great, fixing a leak at the oil pan/timing cover, replacing the O2 sensors, and doing rocker panels.