Opening up wheels/brakes/axles for projects, could use some parts selection help

[eightynine4x4]

I would do it all at once, so you're not taking it apart twice. Otherwise start from the inside and work your way out. Like do the diff/axles/u- joints etc first, then deal with whatever you can do with without having to pull the axles/diff cover apart again ( like brakes, wheel bearings etc). Got the same job due here actually, and waiting until I have the time and all the parts gathered to do it all in one shot. I hate double work.

Any hints as to what the axle seal situation is up front? I tried to scope it out via Rockauto parts menus, in the very first post in this thread, but never was able to sort what was correct and/or missing.
Im just looking to refresh the seals and bearings (and possibly redo the u joints).
Seems like there is an unusual layout of pieces up front.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Front axle has left and right pumpkin seals (different parts) like you have in your first post, then each side has three identical seals: one that slides onto the end of the axle stub shaft, and another that goes into the back of the spindle, which rockauto calls "inner and outer spindle seals". The third one goes on the inside of the brake rotors, retaining the inner bearings. Rockauto calls these "front inner", which is fairly confusing. There's also some kind of grease seal on the two-piece passenger axle shaft slip yoke, which may or may not be NLA.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1118675
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572292

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1116865 (2x)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119466 (2x)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=257509 (2x)

I'm not saying Timken is the best brand for seals, and I have a D35, but these should be examples of each of the 5 types of seals for the D28.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Dana_Ford_28.pdf

The exploded part numbers are 68, 32, 48, 37, and 53. The axle slip yoke seal is 70.


Bearings are less confusing than seals. Inner and outer wheel (rotor) bearings are identical in 4x4s, so you want 4 of the same part. These ones are conical. The spindle bearings are a small cylindrical roller, and it looks like the D28 has some kind of flat needle bearing in the hub. Finally, there's a unique bearing behind the passenger pumpkin seal.

These are 54/56, 49, 61, and 67 on the exploded view.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Front axle has left and right pumpkin seals (different parts) like you have in your first post, then each side has three identical seals: one that slides onto the end of the axle stub shaft, and another that goes into the back of the spindle, which rockauto calls "inner and outer spindle seals". The third one goes on the inside of the brake rotors, retaining the inner bearings. Rockauto calls these "front inner", which is fairly confusing. There's also some kind of grease seal on the two-piece passenger axle shaft slip yoke, which may or may not be NLA.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1118675
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572292

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1116865 (2x)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119466 (2x)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=257509 (2x)

I'm not saying Timken is the best brand for seals, and I have a D35, but these should be examples of each of the 5 types of seals for the D28.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/Dana_Ford_28.pdf

The exploded part numbers are 68, 32, 48, 37, and 53. The axle slip yoke seal is 70.


Bearings are less confusing than seals. Inner and outer wheel (rotor) bearings are identical in 4x4s, so you want 4 of the same part. These ones are conical. The spindle bearings are a small cylindrical roller, and it looks like the D28 has some kind of flat needle bearing in the hub. Finally, there's a unique bearing behind the passenger pumpkin seal.

These are 54/56, 49, 61, and 67 on the exploded view.

This saves me so many headaches, thank you!!!

 

[eightynine4x4]

I have the passenger rear cleared of all parts, including the parking brake cable hookup. It's a little bit different than all the references i have found.. There doesn't seem to be a pin & clip that attaches the large parking brake piece (not talking about the strut) to one of the brake shoes. The haynes shows a clip being used to attach the two pieces, with the shoe having a protruding cylinder that pokes through the parking brake piece and gets the clip, and this baggie kit of springs and stuff includes a little clip that may be for this purpose. So I guess, like the lack of pins for my cylinder, maybe my truck's year/model doesn't have a clip attaching the parking thing to the shoe and instead relies on some simpler connection like an end butting up against a notch or something. Anybody have any ideas about that?

On the note of cylinders... I tried pressing this way and that on either side to see if i could get it to move. It kinda budge the tiniest amount, barely noticeable from the other side. Otherwise it was pretty resistant/stuck.
However, after a while of doing that i started to get some fluid squeezing out from the left rubber piece. Below is a vid of that. This has to be a leak, right?
Granted, this is about 10 minutes after dousing the whole setup with brake cleaner. For a moment i thought it was just some brake cleaner sitting in the crack but i think that would have evaporated, and this fluid keeps pumping out when pressed.
Replace the cylinders?

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[pjtoledo]

I would.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I would change them out like a said before....

 

[don4331]

As noted earlier, the rubber is a dust seal, not a fluid seal. It would be best to pop it off and retest. If you still have fluid escaping when you push, you have a leak and need to replace the cylinder.

 

[Ranger850]

They are not that expensive. If there is ANY question about the cylinders, change them out.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Yeah ok I’m just going to bite the bullet and order new ones and also new drums. $26 a drum from Rock is appealing since mine are both very questionable, one completely covered in surface rust so the time involved in restoring is not worth it only to probably discover it measures past spec (I don’t have the measuring tool yet either) . I also have some doubts about how easy it is to change these cylinders after the fact here, since mine don’t have pins and the shoes are mounted tightly into both sides of cylinder so I could see it being time consuming (although I don’t know what I’m talking about yet haha). Going to just reduce the risk and replace all.
Now I have to learn how to bleed and fill the system. Probably will do this Thursday or Friday.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Couldn’t resist going locally and grabbing cylinders that were a little overpriced and maybe not as well built but oh well.
Installed both rear parking brake cables and also the rear right brake assemblies. Took a while to wrap my head around it since half the parts were non existent for me so I only had a couple incomplete references online.
The parking brake engineering perplexes me. I don’t understand how it works, like how it applies and holds brakes to the drum. But all I need to know is that it’s installed correctly, which I’m unsure of. Anybody able to confirm? I don’t see how else it could be differently installed so it’s my best shot. It’s in a little notch in “rear”shoe, but otherwise kinda floating functionally speaking.
I do understand how the auto tightener for the brakes works though, and how to adjust the shoes using that as the drum is installed.
Tomorrow will do left rear and also front cable for parking brake, then will bang in the two axle seals and re assemble the differential and button that up, then attempt to refurb my drums. If all goes well, I will be able to bleed the rear brakes and put the truck back down. Is it a bad idea to press the brake pedal without drums on? Would love to be able to video the assembly in action to learn how it works, but I guess it could really squeeze itself into weird form since it wouldn’t be contained.

Here’s a pic of the rear right all fresh. I don’t see how else the parking brake could go.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Your park brake is way to tight.

The top of the shoes should be firmly up against the anchor pin.

 

[eightynine4x4]

Your park brake is way to tight.

The top of the shoes should be firmly up against the anchor pin.

I’m honestly not sure what you are saying.
I’ll try to find a picture or two of others with the same year and see how it looks.
At the moment, my two rear parking cables are connected to nothing. They’re just dangling at the juncture to the front cable, so nothing is pulling them so I’m not sure what tight means.
Also there is only one relationship / angle the parking brake piece (not the shunt) can connect to the rear shoe. Shoes has a triangular notch in it which receives a matching triangular peg on the brake piece. It’s in place.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The shoe towards the front should be resting against the top pin. It's not. It may just need a shove in the right direction.
The brake cable I'm unsure. Is it the correct cable? Maybe it's meant for a 10" and you have the 9"?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Another look at what you have... the primary brake shoe doesn't appear to be seated properly in the wheel cylinder.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Another look at what you have... the primary brake shoe doesn't appear to be seated properly in the wheel cylinder.

That's kind of what I meant...lol.