Denny's Driveshaft is a great place to get evrything retaining to that. I need to get on their website myself sometime for my explorer 8.8 swap.
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New project 1992 Ranger Fireball
- Thread starter Elutheros
- Start date
Yes Denny's hooked me up--even sent me the bolt pattern measurements so I could verify the yoke would work. Everything went together really easily this morning when I installed the front driveshaft.
Time to do 4wd burn outs.
I think this is going to work but I'm also sure it will cause problems installing the A/C line:
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I've been getting the last few pieces together for the exhaust and hope to have it done this weekend. I have to modify the stock down pies from the manifolds as the drivers side pipe is touching either the oil pan or the trans no matter what I do.
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Planning on 2.25 inch from the engine to the Y (in front of my hand) and then 2.5 inch to the CAT and the Flowmaster 40 with 2x 2.25 inch pipes to the rear on the passenger side.
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I've been fiddling with the oil filler tube for a while now. Using the Mustang aluminum valve covers was a stupid idea. They look nice, but the oil filler tube sticks up right in front of the intake throttle body. I finally took a filler tube from a Ford full size van with a 90 degree rubber elbow on it and trimmed the original Mustang filler tube down to about 2", and cut the rubber 90 on the van tube to get it down below my intake hose. Then I cut off the van tube and used the rubber collar and tube from the Explorer to get the thing in a better location.
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I also fabricated new mounts for my bumpers to get them up where they belong after the 3" BL. Good place to practice my welding--which needs more practice.
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I am using the original design for the NP 205 T/C support from the 1978 F-150, but I had to build new brackets to fit the Ranger frame. Just have to get the holes cut by a plasma cutter and I will be able to install it. Also did some tweaks to the T/C shifter to cover up the new holes in the floor board, made a lighted license plate bracket for the rear bumper, and installed my inner fender liners.
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Planning on 2.25 inch from the engine to the Y (in front of my hand) and then 2.5 inch to the CAT and the Flowmaster 40 with 2x 2.25 inch pipes to the rear on the passenger side.
I've been fiddling with the oil filler tube for a while now. Using the Mustang aluminum valve covers was a stupid idea. They look nice, but the oil filler tube sticks up right in front of the intake throttle body. I finally took a filler tube from a Ford full size van with a 90 degree rubber elbow on it and trimmed the original Mustang filler tube down to about 2", and cut the rubber 90 on the van tube to get it down below my intake hose. Then I cut off the van tube and used the rubber collar and tube from the Explorer to get the thing in a better location.
I also fabricated new mounts for my bumpers to get them up where they belong after the 3" BL. Good place to practice my welding--which needs more practice.
I am using the original design for the NP 205 T/C support from the 1978 F-150, but I had to build new brackets to fit the Ranger frame. Just have to get the holes cut by a plasma cutter and I will be able to install it. Also did some tweaks to the T/C shifter to cover up the new holes in the floor board, made a lighted license plate bracket for the rear bumper, and installed my inner fender liners.
Finished the NP 205 support. Figured if the design used on the original !978 F150 lasted 36 years that a similar design would be sufficient. Had to make it smaller to fit inside the frame of the Ranger. New bushings are available from the Bronco graveyard.
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still eating starters
Well, I got rid of the stray 12 volts that killed the first two used starters, then installed a 3rd used starter. Started up the truck fine 2 or 3 times, and the next day nothing but a big click. Took it to O'Reillys and got it tested---DOA. I have already replaced the fender mounted relay prior to this failure. So, I bought a re-manufactured starter with a lifetime warranty. It started the truck up just fine 2 or 3 times and I thought I was just unlucky with the JY #3. Next day I go out to start it and nothing but the big click. Tested the relay--it is fine. Tested the positive cable from the battery---0 resistance. I have a new negative cable from the battery to the block and another cable from there to the top bolt on the starter. Battery voltage is 12.6. Solenoid on the starter functions when I apply 12 volts via jumper cables. Number 4 starter is dead. I am baffled--does anyone have any new ideas before I go get another one? Any help appreciated!
Well, I got rid of the stray 12 volts that killed the first two used starters, then installed a 3rd used starter. Started up the truck fine 2 or 3 times, and the next day nothing but a big click. Took it to O'Reillys and got it tested---DOA. I have already replaced the fender mounted relay prior to this failure. So, I bought a re-manufactured starter with a lifetime warranty. It started the truck up just fine 2 or 3 times and I thought I was just unlucky with the JY #3. Next day I go out to start it and nothing but the big click. Tested the relay--it is fine. Tested the positive cable from the battery---0 resistance. I have a new negative cable from the battery to the block and another cable from there to the top bolt on the starter. Battery voltage is 12.6. Solenoid on the starter functions when I apply 12 volts via jumper cables. Number 4 starter is dead. I am baffled--does anyone have any new ideas before I go get another one? Any help appreciated!
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,271
- City
- Nevada
- Vehicle Year
- 1987, 1989
- Engine
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 6”
- Tire Size
- 35
Just finished reading the entire post. This paragraph was pointless so I deleted it.
Are you running a HO motor? Next starter you get, get a high torque for a 351. They're smaller and stronger but a little more expensive.
Oh you will have to extend the starter solenoid wire from the fender by the battery to the starter and hook the starter's power cable directly to the battery. That will bypass the solenoid on the fender.
Are you running a HO motor? Next starter you get, get a high torque for a 351. They're smaller and stronger but a little more expensive.
Oh you will have to extend the starter solenoid wire from the fender by the battery to the starter and hook the starter's power cable directly to the battery. That will bypass the solenoid on the fender.
Last edited:
What year 351 should I look for? I have to get a new starter for my truck.
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,271
- City
- Nevada
- Vehicle Year
- 1987, 1989
- Engine
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 6”
- Tire Size
- 35
Crap I can't remember... Umm let me look it up.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,271
- City
- Nevada
- Vehicle Year
- 1987, 1989
- Engine
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 6”
- Tire Size
- 35
Autozone shows a 92 F-150, 351w coming with a high torque. I'd ask for one for a 94 with a 351 and make sure it's a Windsor or it won't fit.
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Will do.
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,271
- City
- Nevada
- Vehicle Year
- 1987, 1989
- Engine
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 6”
- Tire Size
- 35
I'm running one and I haven't had a single issue. It's been almost two years meow since I put it in.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The NP205 support is the same design Ford used. Of course they had a steel Trans in front of it most of th time. I'm not planning on jumping it so I think it's enough
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