New project 1992 Ranger Fireball

[RangerSVT]

Check to verify you dont have power on the small wire (fender solenoid to starter solenoid) after the engine is started, keeping the bendix engaged...

SVT

 

[Elutheros]

One test I did showed power on that wire when the key was in the on position. I'm tracking the connections to see why, but have not found the problem yet. I'm not keen on frying another starter to confirm your theory so I'm looking at ways to test it without the starter connected

 

[bobbywalter]

make sure the block plate is correct for the fly and starter and for a manual trans. theres a bit of variance with the big body inline 6 starters.


the lightweight starters have a manual/auto variance as well.


of course leaking low current and or voltage power to it is certain to kill them.

 

[Elutheros]

I'm thinking the Clutch Interlock Switch has a problem. With the KOEO and the clutch depressed, I get 10.2 volts to the trigger (R/LB) wire on the starter relay. When the key is turned to start it jumps up to battery voltage. I'm going to take the clutch switch out of the system (bypass it) and see if that fixes the problem.

Checked and the starter for the IL 6 and 5.0 with the M5ODR2 are the same part number. Also changing out the positive battery cable and wire to the starter solenoid as they are suspect.

 

[Elutheros]

After some more wire and voltage tracing, I'm pretty sure the ignition switch is the culprit. I put a shorting plug from an auto in the CPP harness and still had the 10.5 volts in KOEO, so it's not the CPP switch. Then I checked the voltage at the CPP switch plug and got the same 10.5 volts. Took the ignition switch out and found that there is continuity between the Battery and Brown/Pink wire connection which would supply that 10.5 to the others--Pink & R/LB. Going to pick up a new switch tomorrow.

 

[Elutheros]

Well, this is a lot of fun The ignition switch was not the problem. Once again I started checking all of my wiring work and verifying splices, etc. Then I started unplugging connectors to see when the stray 10 volts would go away. None of the connectors I had worked on affected it. Back under the dash to the clutch pedal position switch--the voltage is on the Red/Light Blue wire. Then I decided to see if I missed something in the Harwood manual. They labeled this connector as C124 and say I'm supposed to connect the R/LB wire in that connector to Pink from pin 30 in C105. Well, it's not C124! It is C118 and there is no R/LB wire in this connector. However, if I unplug this sucker the stray 10 volts goes away. (this is on the driver side fenderwell)

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The EVTM does not have a pinout of this connector and very few of the wires in this 16 pin connector are even annotated in the manual. Tonight I'm going to try unplugging the electric shift module for the previous transfer case and see what happens. I've concluded that this problem was present when I bought the truck--and because it was present, the starter was the origin of the fire when I drove it home! If anyone has any other ideas, I'd be glad to hear them. Thanks.

 

[dangerranger83]

So the truck was always at risk of fire from the factory, assume none of the PO did anything with the wiring, and it just so happened to catch fire in the person who was going to give it a better life...you two were meant to be.

 

[RangerSVT]

Iirc, the R/LB on the 88 B2 i just did a swap on was either a hot feed or an ignition feed. Its possible, if its the lather and tied to the alternator, that its staying energized. I'd take the alternator wiring harness from the donor and use that setup...

SVT

 

[Elutheros]

SVT I don't quite understand. I'm using the Explorer alternator with the 2 wire plug which I just spliced to the Ranger harness. I'm not near the truck, but
I think that was just a green wire and a yellow wire, with a Black/orange going from the power distribution to the post on the alternator.

 

[RangerSVT]

Scratch that, I was thinking of something else...

SVT

 

[Elutheros]

Failed electronic shift control module was the problem. Unplugged it and the 10.5 volts went away, but the start function of battery voltage works as it should. That reminded me that the truck was stuck in 4WD when I got it and evidently led to the starter failure and subsequent fire. Tomorrow and Saturday I'm going to put all the wiring together that I had to investigate and work on building the exhaust system. Yippee!

 

[Elutheros]

This is going painfully slow right now, but there is progress. I got the solution to my front driveshaft and NP205 connection today:

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I also got the catalytic converter:

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Should get the 135 degree elbow I need to finish the intake by the end of the week.

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I've got to put the exhaust together and one of the most expensive parts is going to be the merge collector for the Y. Anybody have an Explorer Y pipe they want to sell. Our parts yard hacks them up to get the cats off.

 

[RangerSVT]

What yoke is that, how much/what size is the cat, and check out how i did the intake piping on the V8 B2 i did, mighy help you...

SVT

 

[Elutheros]

That's the CV 32 spline yoke for a 1310 ujoint for a NP205 from Denny's Driveshaft for $55. The CAT is a universal 2.5 inch from Flowmaster. Funny thing about the intake--mine had the mount you had to fabricate for the MAF from the Explorer, and yours had the tube I had to install for my style MAF. I could not fine the style you had in our JY, so I had to improvise. Since the older metal MAF carrier is longer, the Explorer intake hose is too long and can't handle the sharper angle without kinking. I tried a couple different options and finally gave up and ordered the silicon 135 degree elbow. If that's a fail I'm considering moving the battery and putting the Explorer air box in its place.

 

[RangerSVT]

If that doesn't work, hit me up, there's half a dozen 99-01 5.0 explorers in my junkyard, I can grab you a maf, probably even a stock airbox cover from a gen2 ranger...

SVT