New member 94 ranger xlt 2.3

[Furbee86]

Hello there. New ranger owner here. Picked up the above stated just this week. It has a few issues and the more i dig into the vehicle the more im questioning the maintance the former owner claims to have done. It had a rough idle when i purchased it. Not a deal breaker no matter how low it gets it doesnt stall out. My first step was to drop some bg 44k into it and just changed the fuel filter today and noticed an immediate improvement. Just trying to map my next steps. Open to any advice. I plan to do everything myself. Im semi mechanical. Not a complete moron. Always done maintance on other vehicles myself.

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[RangerFabWorks]

If anything looks in question. Do a full tune up
Plugs
Wires
Test the coils. Clean the connections and apply dielectric grease
Air filter
O2 sensor
Clean the throttle body out
Remove and clean the egr valve. Carb cleaner works best on this

Then me personally. I'd flush all the fluids. Engine. Transmission. And rear differential.

 

[Furbee86]

Right on 4 the info. Air filter looks good, check it when i cleaned the maf. Well this morning it stalled out while warming up for the day. The battery gauge was droppin way down when the idle dropped hmmm looks like i have more to do.

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[RangerFabWorks]

I forgot to add in the serpentine belt. It's cheap enough to replace.

Stalling out and battery gauge low. Do you have a volt meter? If so. Turn on every accessory you can. Heater. Radio. Headlights. Engine off. And see what the battery is reading with a load on it. Shouldn't drop much below 11 volts.

 

[Furbee86]

Here is what im working with https://youtu.be/ljvO2vMiyA4

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[Furbee86]

Alright got everthing safetly detached from the throttle body. Did run across a question. Regarding the throttle connection. Should the spring look like this?

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[Mark_88]

Video was a bit dark but I could see it shuddering sporadically. Can't hear sound on this computer but I would hazard a guess that you may want to clean the Idle Air Control (IAC) for starters. That should be near the back of the engine on the near where the air hose connects to the Throttle body.

The IAC can be tested though...just unplug it and the idle should drop to about 500 rps...if it stalls you may have issues with the IAC that might require more work/cleaning.

EDIT: if the engine stalls it is probably a vacuum leak...added for clarity for future reference...

they are fairly easy to remove and clean if needed...I took mine off and sprayed it with some cleaning fluid (actually some PB Blaster and let it soak) but it is not recommended to get fluid inside the upper chamber...

 

[Furbee86]

I spent my morning after posting this clean the trottle body and iac. I tested thru the method u just said mentioned . With iac unplugged it died within a minute. Checked the resistance it was 10.2volts.

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[Furbee86]

Also i dont have an rpm gauge so its all based on sound. Sound on video is overridden by the sound of loose/cracked heat shield on the muffler and also pipe hitting thd frame.

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[Furbee86]

10.2 ohs*** sorry mesausred currently typed wrong lol

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[Mark_88]

Main question is did it make a difference after cleaning?

If not, and if the resistance is in spec, then the stumble could be a few other things...like cleaning the EGR as Blackwidow mentioned and also check the voltage with full load (lights, heater blower, et al turned on).

One other test that the emission tech showed me was to put your hand over the tailpipe (please do this with cold engine...lol) and hold it there for a few seconds with the engine idling...when you release your hand (assuming it was sealed completely) you should hear a small pop if your exhaust system is not leaking.

If you don't feel any pressure there may be issues with the exhaust system...could be leaking before the tailpipe or slightly clogged...but it seems to be otherwise running fine with no bogging down.

 

[Furbee86]

So i had very little time today to play around with it. I did notice a couple harness that are not plugged into anything behind the battery

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[Mark_88]

The one with six wires is probably your OBD-1 test connector...can't really see but it should be marked as such (EEC-IV something or other) and the small single wire connector is probably an accessory or something that is optional...assuming that everything works that is needed.

Neither of these will cause shudder or other idle problems...

There are wiring diagrams available in the Tech Articles on this site for early years if you don't have a Chiltons or Haynes manual. Check the power distribution for that year and follow the colour schemes to figure out what should be there.

For 1993 you are probably better off using the EBSCOhost site. Use the password and user ID listed in the link...just navigate to your vehicle via the year and engine spec and you should find what you need...otherwise...the manuals have them in the back but they can be incomplete sometimes.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170166


Not hard to track wires if you can see the color and the stripe...but sometimes they need cleaning just to determine that.

 

[Furbee86]

I picked up an obd1 3145 tonight. Ran koeo test and came up with codes 172 and 157. Reading the guide book right now

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[Furbee86]

Those are continuous memory codes i just realized. After re reading instructions

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