Need HELP!

[CHSimon3]

Looks like the short term fuel trim is almost maxed out in the negative. That would imply the egnine is getting fuel from somewhere other than the regular injector function or that air is heavily restricted.

Maybe a faulty or too large of an injector? They they said they were OEM, Denso not Motorcraft. Or not getting enough air to it. I've done a smoke test as well and can't find any leaks.

 

[pjtoledo]

cylinder 1,2,3 look normal. 4,5,6 are really fouled.
that definitely means you have a problem with bank 2, the drivers side.

swap the O2 sensors between sides. look at the wiring.
or something is shorting those 3 injectors to ground.
try unplugging the 02 sensors, what happens?

try unplugging those 3 injectors and start the engine. it will run horrible but should not smoke.

last but not least, double check the plug wire order. look at the markings on the coil pack.

 

[CHSimon3]

cylinder 1,2,3 look normal. 4,5,6 are really fouled.
that definitely means you have a problem with bank 2, the drivers side.

swap the O2 sensors between sides. look at the wiring.
or something is shorting those 3 injectors to ground.
try unplugging the 02 sensors, what happens?

try unplugging those 3 injectors and start the engine. it will run horrible but should not smoke.

last but not least, double check the plug wire order. look at the markings on the coil pack.

O2 sensors were changed just after I got that data, the old ended up throwing a code for stuck rich. I'll record another set today. And if you still think unplugging or swapping them over. I'll do that.
I'll unplug bank 2 injectors and let y'all know what it does. Not getting any circuit fault codes on injectors. But I'll check the harness with a multimeter and see if I can find any shorts.
Oh, and plug order on coil from front of engine to back is 1,5 2,6 3,4

 

[pjtoledo]

another long shot, I mean a really ridiculous na' that can't possibly be it long shot....
is the driver side valve cover filling with oil? not draining back to the pan? pull the PCV valve and have a rag handy.
along that path of brainstorming, valve seals? unlikely, but an oil-flooded head will leak oil past good seals.

hey, at least this stuff is cheap to check.

yes, excess oil should also drain back thru the pushrod holes, but they are higher than the drain holes so quite a bit
of oil can accumulate if the drain holes are blocked. your plug 6 is the worst, it's also the lowest.


side note: cat converts can't differentiate between excess oil or gas. in their view both are fuel and the PCM will do strange things
to the fuel trim while oil is overwhelming the system.

again, all this is a lonnnnng shot but it's worth looking at.

 

[CHSimon3]

So far, I attempted unplugging Bank 2 injectors. Truck doesn't even try to run without adding throttle. Too difficult to keep running and watch for smoke.
I did recheck fuel pressure KOEO= 60psi and KOER= 64psi Now, I don't know how much ambient temps come in to effect on pressure. When originally I got 44psi and 50psi.

 

[CHSimon3]

another long shot, I mean a really ridiculous na' that can't possibly be it long shot....
is the driver side valve cover filling with oil? not draining back to the pan? pull the PCV valve and have a rag handy.
along that path of brainstorming, valve seals? unlikely, but an oil-flooded head will leak oil past good seals.

hey, at least this stuff is cheap to check.

yes, excess oil should also drain back thru the pushrod holes, but they are higher than the drain holes so quite a bit
of oil can accumulate if the drain holes are blocked. your plug 6 is the worst, it's also the lowest.


side note: cat converts can't differentiate between excess oil or gas. in their view both are fuel and the PCM will do strange things
to the fuel trim while oil is overwhelming the system.

again, all this is a lonnnnng shot but it's worth looking at.

Pulled PCV valve and it looks ok, and it is functioning. Doesn't seem like excess oil coming through. I suppose i can pull the valve cover to verify.
As for valve seats, I think they're good. Heads were replaced and compression test after showed 160psi +/-4 across all 6 cylinders.

 

[pjtoledo]

look in the PCV hole for oil when its smoking. Helpful Hint: a moving rocker arm will quickly chew up any finger that gets in it's way.
the PCV allows the intake to suck fumes out of the valve cover, if oil gets in the way it gets sucked up too.
valve seals, not seats.
if the heads are loading up with oil the seals will become submerged and pass oil. no effect on compression.

again, the possibility of an oil issue is a long shot.

 

[CHSimon3]

look in the PCV hole for oil when its smoking. Helpful Hint: a moving rocker arm will quickly chew up any finger that gets in it's way.
the PCV allows the intake to suck fumes out of the valve cover, if oil gets in the way it gets sucked up too.
valve seals, not seats.
if the heads are loading up with oil the seals will become submerged and pass oil. no effect on compression.

again, the possibility of an oil issue is a long shot.

So I pulled the valve cover off bank 2. Mainly because I'm starting to doubt my mechanical abilities But in all seriousness i wanted to verify i didnt drop a push rod. No oil spilled out or was pooled. The valve cover has a splash block inside so I didn't see any spray, but I do think oil is an issue, at least partly. It seems to be in the intake manifold again. I just cleaned it last week when I swapped injectors. But there is residual oil on the mating flange of the lower intake (pictured) and I also noticed it dripping out of the break booster hose just now when it was disconnected.
No sign of coolant in oil either, mentioning this because the smoke is getting more white with the more it runs. Oil was dark brown black. Oil change will be done once its running.

 

[CHSimon3]

Well, she may be done! It won't let me attach the video. But now there is a severe knock on bank 1, sounds like cyl 1. Again, pulled valve covers and valve train is good

 

[CHSimon3]

I'm gonna try to link the videoNew Knock

 

[CHSimon3]

Did another compression test on bank 1:
Cyl 1- 180psi (it was 160 after the heads were replaced)
Cyl 2- 160psi
Cyl 3- 0
Possible timing chain issue? Right when it really got bad, it sounded like a tap, maybe chain slap coming from around the altenator/cyl 1. Going to hand turn the engine and see if the valves operate.
I guess my options are getting close to either a new/used motor. Or Rebuild this one depending on if the block is damaged.

 

[pjtoledo]

timing chain would affect all the cylinders.
the noise sounds more like valve train.
I would get both valve covers off for inspection.

unless you dropped a valve I doubt the block is damaged, but it is a little difficult to tell from here.

are the valve covers off now? everything looks "even" ?
zero compression on #3 ?? can you repeat the test & results? (verify failure)
to verify cylinder integrity loosen both rocker arms to the zero compression cylinder so the valves are closed and stay closed.
remove all the plugs, makes it easier to turn over.
stick your finger in the plug hole and crank the engine, either with the starter or by hand.
you should get push & pull if the cylinder is sealed.

you can also wrap something around an air nozzle and pressurize the cylinder thru the plug hole.
small leaks are expected but a massive leak will reveal where the problem is. take the oil fill cap off and listen there, and the exhaust, and the throttle.
well, if the valve cover is off the cap won't be much help

a bore scope will fit in the plug hole, can see the piston top and both valves.


the smoke turning white is actually good news. as the oil/fuel is nearing the end of it's supply the smoke will turn white.

about the only way for oil to get into the intake is thru the PCV valve, but why??

PCV normally has some suction, so oil near it can get sucked in.
or, bad news, if the crankcase is pressurized oil will be blown into the PCV.
there is also a small air tube that goes between the big intake tube and a valve cover. is that tube oily? it should not be, that's the clean air going
into the crankcase via the valve cover.

rocker arm bolts are all tight?
ALL PUSHRODS have some tension? it may not be much but they ain't supposed to flop around loose.
"dogbones" all in place? lifters not rotated?


sorry 'bout all the questions, that's the way it is troubleshooting over the internet.

since the oily plugs all came from the drivers side head, if you pour oil onto the head does it drain OK?

 

[pjtoledo]

one more thing, put a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate back 'n forth a small amount, any clunks? all the way around too.
easier to do when the plugs are out.

 

[CHSimon3]

one more thing, put a wrench on the crank bolt and rotate back 'n forth a small amount, any clunks? all the way around too.
easier to do when the plugs are out.

Kind of at the point where I thought it was done. So I got my son to record while I cranked. Pull fuel pump relay before and coil was disconnected. Cylinder 3 exhaust valve(?) No movement all others seem to be good. Will do bank 2 tomorrow. Video- Bank 1 Valve train

 

[pjtoledo]

that explains no compression and probably the noise.

here is a pic of the oil drain at the rear of the drivers side head. that's a 3/8" drill sticking thru it.
you can see if it were not flowing oil would soon be flooding the springs & seals.
kindly ignore the custom low pressure valve springs. ( I have many unfinished projects )