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My review of the Richmond Lockright Locker


-Nathan-

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Jun 6, 2009
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1,922
City
Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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1993 / 2001
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Manual
Hey guys, so I know a there are ALWAYS a bunch of the same questions about installing a locker, what its like to live with, is it drivable, etc...

lockright.jpg


Well, I recently re-geared to 4.56's (in my 28 spline 8.8) and while I was in there scrapped my limited slip and installed a lockright automatic locker.

First and foremost it is VERY daily drivable. I recently moved to the city, and around town, I hardly even notice it. It makes almost no noise, and for someone who didn't know that it was there, probably couldn't even tell.


For those people who say "you have to RELEARN how to drive"....I will say this is far from true, and tell you that the only reason you would ever have problems is if have never driven a rear wheel drive vehicle, and have no two clues about handling oversteer.

This locker performs extremely well. I can place my truck with one tire on ice, the other on pave, and still accelerate with my foot to the floor. NO SLIPPING. I would HIGHLY recommend this locker for anyone. If you're going to have your diff cover off for any reason, I would install one.

The total install time was ~35 minutes, this was my first time installing a locker, and that was taking my time and making sure everything was set up precisely.


In conclusion....if you're up in the air about whether to get a locker or not...DO IT. It is well worth it, and as far as I'm concerned is one of the best modifications I have done to my truck.


-Nathan-
 
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Good info! Can you shed some light on the difference between the powertrax and the lockright? They seem very similiar.
 
hey guys, as far as i know the powertrax is the same thing. This cost me right around 340$, plus i had to pick up an open carrier (50$), as i had a limited slip in mine previously. It is a VERY good investment if youre even considering it. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

Oh, and just so you know, i DID NOT get teh notched cross pin that they say you need. I installed 4 56 gears, and yes the ring gear is too thick to install the cross pin. But....I was told by a veteran mechanic just to grind down a corner of one of the teeth on teh ring gear. There is only one little spot you need to grind and the original pin will slide right in. Reason for this is that the notched cross pins have been known to break and are much weeaker. The minute amount of grinding even isnt noticeable on the ring gear, and doesnt touch the pattern when you run it.
 
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Good info! Can you shed some light on the difference between the powertrax and the lockright? They seem very similiar.
There are real similar but the No-Slip does not have the shear pins or the spacers as shown at the bottom right in the picture. Actually easier to install but usually run about $120 more than the Lock-Rite. Did learn from first install to paint the drive gear and the driven coupler with some paint to orientate the proper location of the missing tooth, they only go together one way. Once you start the install, real easy to get them out of alignment, everything being covered in oil. It actually took me two hours total from start to complete finish, one of the little springs flew off on me.
Dave

powertrax-2.jpg

powertrax-1.jpg
 
I'm thinking I can't get the no slip for the L/S case I have so I'll take what I can get. I called Jegs and the tech rep did not have a clue.

Really good info, thanks guys!
 
It's a sorry state when you need good info you have to come to a great site like this instead of a tech at a parts supplier. You are right, no Lock-Rite for the L/S, open only, part # 1820. They do have the No-Slip for the open or L/S, part #'s 2807 & 2827. Mustangs take the same part.
Dave
http://www.richmondgear.com/01pdfs/PTRAXAPP.pdf
 
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Do not use the notched cross pin. You can grind a little and not have to use it. My mechanic who did my gears said there is no way he was putting the notched one in there due to how it was made.
 
It's a sorry state when you need good info you have to come to a great site like this instead of a tech at a parts supplier. You are right, no Lock-Rite for the L/S, open only, part # 1820. They do have the No-Slip for the open or L/S, part #'s 2807 & 2827. Mustangs take the same part.
Dave
http://www.richmondgear.com/01pdfs/PTRAXAPP.pdf

This one says it's a lock-rite, not no-slip, for 28 spline l/s.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...2&t_s=237&t_pt=5589&t_pl=6748&t_pn=PTX1821-LR
 
Do not use the notched cross pin. You can grind a little and not have to use it. My mechanic who did my gears said there is no way he was putting the notched one in there due to how it was made.

hey yeah, i said that above too..."Oh, and just so you know, i DID NOT get teh notched cross pin that they say you need. I installed 4 56 gears, and yes the ring gear is too thick to install the cross pin. But....I was told by a veteran mechanic just to grind down a corner of one of the teeth on teh ring gear. There is only one little spot you need to grind and the original pin will slide right in. Reason for this is that the notched cross pins have been known to break and are much weeaker. The minute amount of grinding even isnt noticeable on the ring gear, and doesnt touch the pattern when you run it."
 
Nathan where can you buy a lock right?

Any number of places, either here on the TRS site in the 'parts' section, or any other vendor online. I bought mine through a dealer over on pirate4x4. Sometimes you can even find them in the used parts for sale section.
 

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