My New House & Workshop

[Rick W]

Afterthought, but if you move the hinges to the outside, when you open the doors you can fold them all the way around to within a few inches of the block wall, so you won’t have the turning radius issue. This would work with the Three panel idea as well

 

[Jim Oaks]

@Rick W I've wondered what was holding the area around those doors up. That's why I said I was more concerned about the door opening than the roof.

I like the idea of a 2x8 header over the block with a 1/2" piece of plywood trimming the bottom and maybe 1x8's on the sides to clean it up. Just have to measure the length I need over block on each side plus the 8-foot span to figure out how long I need it. Then figure out how I want to anchor the barn door track to the cinderblock where there's no header and build a barn door.

Too bad the approach is an alley. If you could just back up far enough, I would think that you could make it through . . .

The outside edge to outside edge of my tires are 6'3", which Is why I said I need a 7' door.

 

[Curious Hound]

@Rick W I've wondered what was holding the area around those doors up. That's why I said I was more concerned about the door opening than the roof.

I like the idea of a 2x8 header over the block with a 1/2" piece of plywood trimming the bottom and maybe 1x8's on the sides to clean it up. Just have to measure the length I need over block on each side plus the 8-foot span to figure out how long I need it. Then figure out how I want to anchor the barn door track to the cinderblock where there's no header and build a barn door.



The outside edge to outside edge of my tires are 6'3", which Is why I said I need a 7' door.

Don't forget mirrors. 8ft is a lot narrower than it sounds.

A few weeks ago, I threaded my truck between a pair of trees that were less than 6ft apart at ground level, but angled slightly away from each other. Tires climbed up the trunks a little bit, sliders cleared and mirrors had about 2" clearance on each side.

But you don't want a garage door that tight.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I got my new front door hung. There wasn't enough room in the opening for a 36" door, so I framed it down to 32" and got a prehung metal door from Home Depot for $166. I still have to cut off the shims and trim it.

This front window is broke. You can see a crack going down and intersecting with a crack going across. First I figured something broke it, but now I'm wondering if it was force from the building itself.

​

I laid a board across the top to see how it dips.

​

The wood around it is rotted in areas.

The opening looks to be roughly 52" x 40". I'm thinking about framing it with 2x8 with (2) 2x8's in the center of it and dividing it in to (2) windows. I can go to Home Depot and get (2) 23x35 windows in stock.

 

[Rick W]

Getting double pane windows, yes/no?

& door looks great. Maybe PVC trim?

 

[Jim Oaks]

I'm still a little freaked out by the Bullsnake that was in my shop. Those things can get 8-feet long. I'm worried he's going to find his way back in.

 

[Rick W]

Give him a hammer and a hardhat and put him to work. I can’t help you much with snakes, I’m a city kid

 

[Rick W]

The outside edge to outside edge of my tires are 6'3", which Is why I said I need a 7' door.

that’s awfully close. I think you should be thinking about 18 inches on each side minimum, outside the mirrors or the wide point.

And I know it’s blasphemy, but one of the Ranger doesn’t last forever and you get something bigger

 

[Rick W]

Then figure out how I want to anchor the barn door track to the cinderblock where there's no header and build a barn door.

Get a 14 or 16 foot deck board. Let it dry out in the sun. You can stitch it with deck screws to the wooden header. On the block side, you can hold it against the block with toggle bolts. Instead of one in the middle every few feet, I would put one high and one low, may be offset by four or 5 inches so as not to create a crack in the block, and do that four or five times the length of the board.

And guess what? When the board is dry from the sun, clean the wall where it will go, and use construction adhesive too. Glue it to the header and the block

 

[Jim Oaks]

Ok @Rick W will Header A work, or do I have to go with Header B?

​

The windows for the front would be double pane single hung aluminum windows.

 

[Curious Hound]

Header A should be fine. When I make headers, I use two 2x's with plywood sandwiched between them. The plywood does a lot to prevent sagging.

 

[Rick W]

Ditto Eric. Header A should be fine. But I would pull out and reset that loose block on the right.

That window looks great. If you want cheap and functional, you can just buy a double pane of glass, reframe the opening, and then set it in with one by two, or a quarter round. It will also give you more light.

 

[Rick W]

But I think you’re nuts if you just go 3 inches on each side of your truck!

 

[Rick W]

BTW, Temporarily support the roof the length of the long beam, but the short beam is fine.

when you make the beam, Put for lag bolts on each end, sticking out where they will stuff the web in the block on each side, but not break it. Then mix a little mortar mix and drop it in that hole. It will bind the beam to the wall

 

[Jim Oaks]

Shit.

I forgot to account for the larger opening. I was just trying to get the feel for how far in the header should go.