My New House & Workshop

[Shran]

I would go one of two ways... rebuild it exactly like it is and just replace the glass, or build a header out of 2x in there if you want to use a vinyl or metal window. My concern is that if you don't have a better header to support those blocks, it'll sag a little bit and distort the frame enough to where a regular window may have issues opening or closing.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I would go one of two ways... rebuild it exactly like it is and just replace the glass, or build a header out of 2x in there if you want to use a vinyl or metal window. My concern is that if you don't have a better header to support those blocks, it'll sag a little bit and distort the frame enough to where a regular window may have issues opening or closing.

Do you think it will sag more than it already has?

One of the reasons I suggested 2 windows was to have a 2x8 in the middle holding it up.

 

[Shran]

I kinda doubt it, especially once you get it rebuilt. I imagine a large part of why it sagged in the first place is because the bottom board rotted out and allowed the sides to hang loose. A header with 2x on edge is a safer way to go with manufactured windows. Your middle support would be fine too but not totally necessary if you have a solid base to support the sides and top. You could do a header either way, even with just a piece of glass in there, just more to trim over after you frame it.

 

[Rick W]

I agree w/ @Shran in concept. A couple more thoughts.

if the existing top 2X is OK, it may be the best thing to just prop it up and reuse it. There’s no telling what will happen if you take it out.

if you do take out that header, when you get the 2x replacement, you may want to intentionally look for one that bows, and then put that bow upwards so it is pre-loaded in the middle. That’s the only piece that really has a lot of weight on it. The verticals on either side or the middle can be a 1X and it will be plenty strong. And on the bottom, again, I would shim it a little bit on the inside so it has a positive drain outwards on the outside.

Whether you use a single sheet of glass, double pane, or any kind of pre-hung windows, I would make sure there is the tiniest gap between the sides, and may be a little bit more gap top to bottom so that the sides or top will not bind if there’s any motion. The gap will be all covered by whatever trim you put on

 

[Rick W]

Afterthought, the sag in the middle of the existing 2X is probably more likely from moisture over the years and not necessarily from weight pushing it down. But I’d still be real careful about taking it out!

 

[CrabGuy]

I would just dig out the grout on the inside blocks, install a 3" x 3/8" steel angle iron lintel with pre-drilled holes for cinder block anchors. Wood makes things more complicated. Same goes for the new barn door but a larger angle might be needed. I've installed a few barn doors and the rodents and pests always find a way through the edges so a sealing jamb type door is a must . You can source surplus steel from any steel supplier in your area and it's permanent. You might also find that both openings have rebar over them with a solid concrete fill in the cavities. Go for the largest door for vehicle entry you can do, I would never go less than 8" if you can. Whatever you do I bet that gas riser and regulator needs to be relocated per local code. The two window idea is good rather than one single wide one. Again, steel is King.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Why would the gas meter need relocated?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Why would the gas meter need relocated?

Usual reason is that its too close to an opening. Here it needs to be at least 3' away from vents or opening doors and windows. This is to prevent potential gas ingress if the meter leaks or vents.

 

[Rick W]

Yes, there is a code. My first inkling is to think how you drive or how your beverage of choice drives. If it’s not in danger, I’d put some stout stakes up high enough to see and avoid.

there is no issue with cutting the clean out down, so just shift the door that way.

The gas company and the inspector are not going to come knocking on your door and say the gas meter’s to close. The only reason they’d pay attention to it is if it got damaged or if you complain about it

my 2 cents

 

[Jim Oaks]

​

I guess I'll have to move the door to the left then.

I need to take out the rotted sill plate and come up with an apron to drive in and out of the building. Basically don't want to be tearing up the slab drive up over the edge of it. This might be something I'll have to hire a concrete guy for.

That gas line is polyethylene and runs from the meter to the left and around the corner of the building. It's a straight shot (under) from the meter to the house, but my guess is that at some point it was rerouted around the building. Is there any rule that says my apron can't go over it? It's fairly deep down there. The plumber hit it with his little excavator when he dug up and installed that clean out. He had to fix it because it started leaking. I question if there's still a leak. I keep smelling a faint hint of gas. Probably have the gas company come out and check before I do any work over here.

 

[Jim Oaks]

On the window, do I have to install any kind of flashing or anything to protect the wood before I install the new framed window? I was joust going to stick it in, shim it, screw it in to the 2x8's, and then go over the outside with 1x to trim it out.

 

[Rick W]

Yes, have the gas company check. If it’s an underground leak and accumulates under the slab, BANG “Jim’s Flying Ranger!”

it’s probably just the meter. They’ll puff once in a while as part of the regulation process, but best to check.

& yes, concrete can be placed over it.

On concrete apron, there’s usually a 3-4 yard minimum. So what else do you want to do to finish up the place, clean up the place.

on the window, did I mention paint every square inch of wood with a thinned out oil base, especially the open grain on the ends, and then cover paint it? If it’s under the roof over hang, doing that and caulking it should be plenty.

with the block, the triple tinfoil lining never hurts.

hope it helps!

 

[Rick W]

& don’t go so far left with the door that you limit utility between the trick and the back wall.

 

[1990RangerinSK]

The gas company and the inspector are not going to come knocking on your door and say the gas meter’s to close. The only reason they’d pay attention to it is if it got damaged or if you complain about it

my 2 cents

That's bad advice, right there. Any inspector with a brain would insist that the meter be moved. There's a reason that it has to be three feet from any opening. You DON'T want gas in the building. Read this: https://www.snellheatingandair.com/blog/family-risk-carbon-monoxide-poisoning/. It also talks about natural gas leaks. The stuff can kill you.

Even if Jim doesn't need a permit to move the meter, and wouldn't have to have it inspected, the meter should still be moved, because any job worth doing is worth doing RIGHT.

 

[CrabGuy]

The gas meter relocation is a must do IMHO. As others have stated it's a safety code issue. If you do relocate it mount it against the wall rather than sitting out in open space like that. If you smell gas it's either the regulator, a threaded connection, or poorly repaired nick in the buried line and should be checked immediately. Also I've never seen cinder block construction without some type of poured concrete, steel, reinforced lintel (header), or bond beam installed. There must be some type of header over those openings unless it was built by the Hucklebuck Brothers without permits.