More Powa-Babeh 2.9L

[DavisRanger]

So, I’ve done some work.

RV Camshaft
Bored +40
4 hole injectors
Cat delete
Headers
Small stroke (idk where the machinist found the crank, but he did.)

I’m also running Advanced Timing and driving on 92 octane, it runs like garbage on anything lower than 92.
Now, I’m assuming I’m needing to have my computer adjusted cause this thing is running rich. Not rich to the point of falling on its face, but rich enough to throw codes and lose a little bit of power when I get my foot in it.

I should also add that I’m running a 170 thermostat, I just think 192 (recommended) is too dang hot. Idk if that would effect it running rich though.

I thought about getting the Jet Chip for it to see if that helps? Been tossing around the Morana dual upper intake.. Also, been looking at a bigger throttle body, or custom intake setup. All I know is I need more air. I’m confident I’m sitting between 175hp-185hp, until codes start being thrown lol.

I’m just having a hard time trying to decide what to do. Any ideas would be appreciated, as long as it doesn’t have to do with a damn swap.

The engine just broke 2500 miles, so swaps are out of the question for now. I’ll also add, I’m trying to break that “Mythical” 200hp mark.

To give you an idea of what’s going on here, I’m running 31x10.5R15 and she’ll break them loose through 2nd and chirp into third.

help me get loose through 3rd please (jk) and stop throwing CEL .

But seriously, let’s talk.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

2.9L Megasquirt Info - Work in progress

Submitting this as a placeholder for now, but posting the attachments and gist of the article. This is going to be a rather in-depth write up, and will take some time to properly compile. Mods: Please do with this as you see fit! Thank you!! CRITICALLY IMPORTANT NOTE: To those who find...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Dirtman]

Engines is goes vroom.

 

[fastpakr]

Engines is goes vroom.

Ideally. I have several vroomless engines.

 

[Dirtman]

Ideally. I have several vroomless engines.

For only $49.99 I'll record myself making vroom vroom noises on tape. You can then set a boom box on the engine and play the tape. Problem solved.

 

[fastpakr]

If those noises will make my Ranger go again, I'm in.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

So, I’ve done some work.

RV Camshaft
Bored +40
4 hole injectors
Cat delete
Headers
Small stroke (idk where the machinist found the crank, but he did.)

I’m also running Advanced Timing and driving on 92 octane, it runs like garbage on anything lower than 92.
Now, I’m assuming I’m needing to have my computer adjusted cause this thing is running rich. Not rich to the point of falling on its face, but rich enough to throw codes and lose a little bit of power when I get my foot in it.

I should also add that I’m running a 170 thermostat, I just think 192 (recommended) is too dang hot. Idk if that would effect it running rich though.

I thought about getting the Jet Chip for it to see if that helps? Been tossing around the Morana dual upper intake.. Also, been looking at a bigger throttle body, or custom intake setup. All I know is I need more air. I’m confident I’m sitting between 175hp-185hp, until codes start being thrown lol.

I’m just having a hard time trying to decide what to do. Any ideas would be appreciated, as long as it doesn’t have to do with a damn swap.

The engine just broke 2500 miles, so swaps are out of the question for now. I’ll also add, I’m trying to break that “Mythical” 200hp mark.

To give you an idea of what’s going on here, I’m running 31x10.5R15 and she’ll break them loose through 2nd and chirp into third.

help me get loose through 3rd please (jk) and stop throwing CEL .

But seriously, let’s talk.

At this point, your engine is so far off from factory parameters that its a miracle that it runs.

Furthermore, the stock tuning is completely incorrect. The EEC-IV Speed Density computer is incapable of re-learning volumetric efficiency. Your volumetric efficiency has changed greatly. Continuing to run it like this will lead to damage - period.

A jet chip is resistors and diodes. They are NOT A TUNER.

YOU NEED A TUNER.

A quarterhorse, SCT, etc. are fawking garbage. They are inadequate as a tuner, period. Fight me. I will win.

If you don't believe me, go to a dragstrip. Those actually winning on EFI are using standalones, not chips. A chip is old tech and several magnitudes more expensive than a standalone.

There is a factory manifold that works. Contact Jeff Herston and Merkur Midwest. blugg@msn.com. Tell him you need a complete Merkur upper. they flow 13-35% better than the junk Ranger intake depending on RPMs. My VE maps show this. Yes, the Merkur one is better than Morana's.


I would be willing to bet that with appropriate tuning, you've already broken the 200hp mark.

If you do decide to go with Megasquirt/microsquirt, PM me. I can remote tune your truck from PA. Tuning shops are $400/hr on average. I am free.

 

[Snoranger]

If you do decide to go with Megasquirt/microsquirt, PM me. I can remote tune your truck from PA. Tuning shops are $400/hr on average. I am free.

You get what you pay for.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Oh, yeah, I'm not promising dialing in anything but running and stable. The rest is up to you.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

You get what you pay for.

Throw a carb on it ill tune it.

 

[adsm08]

Cat delete gained you nothing and made driving the truck on the road a crime.

Just saying.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

secret hippie


Amazon units are $50, and are basically a mesh strainer in your tailpipe. But, legal and CARB approved.

Besides, pollution sucks.

Even force fed, I dropped the money on a 3" cat to stay legal. If its a restriction, bigger cat it is.

 

[sgtsandman]

Adsm08 beat me to it. If your truck is going to off road only, the cat delete is not an issue. However, if you drive it on to a public road, you are breaking federal law. Modern catalytic converters are not restrictive like the original ones were. So doing a delete gains you nothing.

 

[DavisRanger]

Cat delete gained you nothing and made driving the truck on the road a crime.

Just saying.

Lmao, I’ll take my chances and my cat was clogged. Sounds better, I will say that. I’ll wind up replacing it when I run new exhaust.

 

[DavisRanger]

At this point, your engine is so far off from factory parameters that its a miracle that it runs.

Furthermore, the stock tuning is completely incorrect. The EEC-IV Speed Density computer is incapable of re-learning volumetric efficiency. Your volumetric efficiency has changed greatly. Continuing to run it like this will lead to damage - period.

A jet chip is resistors and diodes. They are NOT A TUNER.

YOU NEED A TUNER.

A quarterhorse, SCT, etc. are fawking garbage. They are inadequate as a tuner, period. Fight me. I will win.

If you don't believe me, go to a dragstrip. Those actually winning on EFI are using standalones, not chips. A chip is old tech and several magnitudes more expensive than a standalone.

There is a factory manifold that works. Contact Jeff Herston and Merkur Midwest. blugg@msn.com. Tell him you need a complete Merkur upper. they flow 13-35% better than the junk Ranger intake depending on RPMs. My VE maps show this. Yes, the Merkur one is better than Morana's.


I would be willing to bet that with appropriate tuning, you've already broken the 200hp mark.

If you do decide to go with Megasquirt/microsquirt, PM me. I can remote tune your truck from PA. Tuning shops are $400/hr on average. I am free.

I was afraid you’d say that lol. I think we talked about this a while back. Wiring up an ECU is quite a daunting task. Since it’s my daily driver, I can’t afford to have it down for more than a weekend and with my luck... I’d do something wrong and I’d be shaking my head with hands in the air and wire all over the place.

However, I’ve come this far.. might as-well take a stab at it. Lol

Thanks for that email, btw. I’ve been looking all over for a Merkur upper. I had a feeling that would be the better option.