Plug read for timing mark, 3 plugs, need second or more set of eyes, 302W carbureted

[corerftech]

See pics

302w/explorer 5.0 GT40P
Edelbrock carb/pertronix dist
RS12 champion plug (one step colder)
Cyl 2,3,4 in that order of pics
500 miles on plugs
REGULAR UNLEADED 87 FUEL
And i have NO INTAKE or other unregulated air being ingested. The intake system is stellar.
Please give me some feedback.

yes I know I have valve stem seals leaking

No Fuel Ring of any kind way down deep
AFR is pretty lean for economy sake,

idle is 103% (15 ish)

around town is 95-105 percent (13.5-14.5 ish)

Accel is 92-95 (13ish)
WOT rarely seen- 80-86 (11.9-12.5ish) yes too rich since weather change to 80 degrees here in memphis

I feel like I need to pull another 2 degrees.

The original failure of a cat on passenger side is suspected of burning valves on cyl 3/4, promoting the carb conversion.

I see cylinder 2 as too clean and from cutaway view too lean.

3/4 are slightly idle fouled and for sure oil fouled and the looks of it are from valve seals. I have not indexed the plugs to verify the porcelain oil is top side but I am certain it is as all plugs have only fouling on porcelain at this position. Neither will have a fuel ring. I have a weird tubular microscope that can see down deep pretty well w/o cutaway and they are equal to cyl 2.

at 4500 rpm wot, I still get a rattle. It’s very slight but it’s there and hit or miss- I see no aluminum as on prior plugs (stock heat range, 2 degrees more timing than these). So happy about that.

Well after uploading the pics to the PC and the forum, I see close up (vision is poor anymore without huge assistance) that the porcelain is flaking on all 3. So the cylinders are still way too hot. And I want to say that is due to timing.

I noticed in hind sight one plug is assembled crooked, electrode and insulation not centered. Friggin Champion.
Moving to NGK TR5 for next 500 miles. Didn’t photo or inspect the others yet. Most all will be like Cyl 2.

My concerns are that the timing mark is on the base ring, not on the strap at all or right at the weld from base ring to strap.

so best to worst-

cyl2 dead lean (see cut open for no fuel ring)
Cyl 3 and 4 about equal in crap.

really concerned about timing marks! I have not the experience in reading them

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

 

[corerftech]

More pics and concerns, this is what I see, someone confirm or deny

Threads read way too far down for heat in both images. All sources indicate 2 threads and really no more I am 5-6 threads on one and 4-5 on another.

Reviewing again, idle seems to be right based on dull thin soot on base ring. The straps where arrows are- I don’t think that is a timing mark! And if it is, then it is the initial timing mark and that dark ring should be in the curve/bend and there should be another clean ring below it to the weld.

Essentially I am saying my total timing mark is down on the threads!!!
If that is right- shit!

Maybe 2 full degrees!