Missing timing belt tensioner spring Ranger 2.3L

[trigley]

Hello, I need some experienced help with this issue. I recently purchase a 1997 Ranger that had been sitting for a couple of years. I managed to get it started, but it ran very poorly, so I thought the valve timing might be off. I was right, someone had put a new belt in it but was off by a couple of teeth. Well, anyhow, I'm ready to put it back together, but whoever had it apart last didn't put the belt tensioner coil spring back on. My question is, can I do without this spring? Actually, I'm not sure what it's there for anyhow, because apparently the plate that holds the idler against the belt gets locked in place with a bolt, so the function of the spring must be just to determine the belt tension before locking it down. Can I just apply a reasonable amount of tension to the belt manually, then lock that clamping bolt down and be OK? Thanks very much for any help with this question.

 

[Andy D]

By your diagnosis I would say you could probably set the tension without the spring. Also that you are capable of doing it. Not intimate with 2.3,but the set up on my cars is the same. Ive done it both ways without issues. But always with a new belt. The spring was only a couple bucks. Would the locals carry it? Good luck.

 

[RonD]

The spring is used even when bolt is tight, it actually does move the tensioner over time as belt stretches slightly, and holds it in place the rest of the time.
I know it is counter-intuitive, "if bolt is tight then tensioner pulley can't move", but never the less belt will loosen up over time with out the spring in place.

 

[trigley]

Hi Andy, thanks for your reply. This spring is actually not easy to find, even the dealer had a hard time and told me to call him back tomorrow. I have found them on Ebay, for a minimum of $54! For a little coil spring with four turns of heavy wire. When I took this apart, at first I didn't realize there was supposed to be a spring there. The belt was under pretty good tension without it, the only problem was being out of time. (The previous owner had set the timing with the crankshaft pulley mark at the 12 o'clock position, which is actually about 20 degrees before top dead center.) Amazingly, it started but had very little power, but I did get it home.
I will go ahead and put it back together without. I believe I can apply a moderate amount of tension and clamp it down and have it work okay. I just didn't want to do that without someone with more experience offering an opinion on it. It seems to me that since a timing belt grips with cogged teeth (unlike a v-belt) too much tension is unnecessary, and would be a mistake. I shouldn't have to worry about a new belt jumping out of time with moderate tension, do you think? Thanks, Ted Rigley

 

[trigley]

Hi Ron, Thank You for this insight! So, that would mean that the torque on the pivot bolt and locking bolt really need to be correct, to allow this creeping accommodation over time, right? I will arrange to do without the use of this vehicle until I can locate a spring. Thanks very much, I have really been in a state of uncertainty about what to do about this. Ted Rigley

 

[trigley]

Well, the dealer got a new spring for me, $55 plus tax. Must be something special about that spring, maybe the precision of it? Anyhow, does anyone know an easy and safe way to lever that tension/idler pulley assembly back, now that the spring is in place? I don't have the special tool called for, but people have indicated on this website (and others) that they managed it without anything special. Thanks, Ted Rigley

PS -- I should mention that when I tried levering against the roll pin that one leg of the spring rides against, it (the roll pin) popped right out. I took the tensioner off and pressed the roll pin back into place with my vise, but maybe I need a new tensioner? Would I then be able to lever against that pin and move the tensioner back against the spring? That spring is very strong.

 

[RonD]

I haven't done the 2.3l tensioner, but from what I see you should be able to install spring and pivot bolt, leave set bolt off, so there is less pressure on spring.
Once spring is in place and pivot bolt snug, use pry bar to move tensioner pulley enough to install set bolt