Master cylinder slave and clutch question

[Joey Stacks]

Ok so I got a bad throwout bearing and a leak somewhere in the hydraulic clutch system. A while back I spied some fluid on the pushrod of the clutch master cyl and replaced it only to find I had another leak somewhere else.

Well now the time has come to finally drop the trans and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, slave, and hydraulic line... the question I have here is can I possibly change all that without going to a new cluch master cyl... the thing sits at an angle that is just begging to trap some air in it.

So can I change the hydraulic line without replacing the master cyl or do I need to do both and bench bleed it?
92 2.3 with M50d

 

[99RangerKrazy]

You might be ok. When I did my clutch, like you, I replaced the master cylinder first, with the clutch going out a couple months later. I put in a new clutch and slave cylinder, and tried bleeding it. And it worked. So I say try it. What I would do, is when you pull the line off the old slave, try to keep it from draining (plug the hole with a nail or something). That way the the master stays bled. So when you put the line back into the slave, if any air gets in, it will hopefully stay near the slave and will bleed out.

Keep in mind, you just need to be able to get through the gears after you've bled it. Even if it doesn't feel perfect, but is still driveable, just drive it..the system will self-bleed as it's used.

Hope this helps.

 

[Joey Stacks]

yeah but I need to pull the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to replace that as well because the plastic o ring type thing is cracked on it

 

[99RangerKrazy]

Ohhh ok.

Well, you should still be ok. You don't necessarily have to replace the master cylinder (if it just needs a new o-ring where the line meets the master, if that's what you are talking about). You might have to just remove it from the firewall, put the new o-ring in, and then bench bleed it (unattached from the firewall, so you can get all the air out of the place where it normally gets trapped). Then just bolt it back up on the firewall.

 

[ElleShooTiger]

yeah but I need to pull the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to replace that as well because the plastic o ring type thing is cracked on it

Do you mean the white split plastic ring at the slave cylinder? That one should come with aftermarket slave cylinders, or can be bought from Ford dealers or car stores separately. Its easy to replace once you remove it from the slave.

Unless the fluid line is damaged, you do NOT need to replace it, its just plastic after all. The seals on both ends can be easily changed though.

To prevent future problems, spend the 10 minutes and remove the master cylinder and reservoir from the truck and bleed it at an angle, its the best way to do it.

 

[Joey Stacks]

Do you mean the white split plastic ring at the slave cylinder? That one should come with aftermarket slave cylinders, or can be bought from Ford dealers or car stores separately. Its easy to replace once you remove it from the slave.

Unless the fluid line is damaged, you do NOT need to replace it, its just plastic after all. The seals on both ends can be easily changed though.

To prevent future problems, spend the 10 minutes and remove the master cylinder and reservoir from the truck and bleed it at an angle, its the best way to do it.

Yeah that ring on the hydraulic line is what Im talking about... hmmm ok thanks guys for working with me. I will order my parts for the clutch slave job and if it ends up needing the hydraulic line replaced I will bleed the line with master attached to the pedal

I was thinking about getting a ZOOM clutch anybody know anything about them?

 

[ElleShooTiger]

LUK makes the original clutches, and they're considered the best. ebay has them cheap.

 

[bhawk]

I agree with that stated above. Do not remove the hydraulic line from the master to the slave just to replace the white plastic ring on the quick connect coupling. A new one, or used one, will just slip over the brass fitting. Remember, a new ring has a split in it to fit over the hump on the brass. Maybe your just seeing the factory split in the ring? All the ring does is push the little claws that are built into the quick connect coupling enough to pull the fitting out of the slave. I just replaced my master yesterday so the ring is fresh in my mind. Even if it was cracked in two places, as long as you can push it into the slave with 2 screwdrivers and disconnect the coupling, it has done it's job. It does not hold pressure or hold back fluid.
If your leak is in the slave, you do not have to remove or re-bleed the master. It holds fluid and will not accept air just because the quick connect coupling is disengaged to remove the clutch. The tiny bit of air that may enter the system when you reconnect to your new slave will be trapped right at the quick connect and easily be pushed out the bleed screw at the top of the slave when you bleed the new slave.
Try and find your leak before your rip that tranny out to install a new slave. Shine a flashlight into the inspection hole on the tranny and look at the slave. Maybe you'll see the wetness associated with a leak. Otherwise, look carefully inside the truck at the master for a leak, also where the quick connect pressure hose connects to master for a leak. If it's not leaking at those 2 places, your leak must be in the slave. Good luck with your repair.

 

[Joey Stacks]

Thanks bhawk but I have tried my hardest to find the leak on this thing and It just dosent make sense. When its cold overnight I can lose up to half the fluid in the reservoir. When its over 60 degrees it dosent leak. When it only leaks due to outside temperture that tells me that Its got to be some sort of O ring in the slave that is not contracting anymore.

Not only that but I have a throwout bearing that screams at me when I push in the clutch. Im just going to get the parts and drop the trans. I need this truck to last me as long as my old ranger did (230,000) or close to it

 

[99RangerKrazy]

It would be worth replacing the whole clutch system (slave, clutch assembly) if you're going to drop the trans. That way you shouldn't have to mess with it again for quite a while.

 

[Joey Stacks]

It would be worth replacing the whole clutch system (slave, clutch assembly) if you're going to drop the trans. That way you shouldn't have to mess with it again for quite a while.

thats the plan