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M5od in 1st Gen 2.3 Ranger


I believe, in the '88, there is a separate neutral switch that feeds the ECU. I don't know what its purpose is, as the wires from my switch are chewed up and I haven't had a chance to try and repair them.

Maybe your 85 has the same thing.
 
Dude, I am telling you for like the second or third time, the two wire plug is the converter lock up solenoid. It will get a vss from the thing the speedo cable plugs into.

Postin' from teh Galaxy
 
Dude, I am telling you for like the second or third time, the two wire plug is the converter lock up solenoid. It will get a vss from the thing the speedo cable plugs into.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

Werd...guess I'm struggling to wrap myself around having a lockup torque converter in such an old car...

Case and point, I can delete these two wires then? The Manual ECU will not do anything with them, right?
 
The A4LD was one of the first transmissions Ford made with an electronically controlled lockup converter. It's no where near as fancy as the stuff we have these days. It is a simple setup, over 45 MPH, not accelerating, and it locks up.

You can do what ever you like with those wires, a manual computer won't even know they exist.
 
I've been in the process of cleaning up the under hood wiring...My own little mini tuck..I've peeled these back, almost to the firewall, and will unpin them from the ECU connector, and delete them for good.

Thanks for the help! So far, this conversion seems very smooth & straight forward...Now, if only my parts order would arrive and I could put this all together...

Another question has dawned on me...there is what appears to be a "guide sleeve" integrated in the back of the crankshaft...meaning, it doesn't look as though I can remove it...is this true? Other cars I've swapped on, have a removal guide sleeve that gets replaced with a pilot shaft bearing...do I simply press the pilot shaft bearing into the crank, without removing this element?
 
I am going to get pics today, but I spoke with my Ford Mechanic/Engine Builder friend, who assured me that there is infact a lip on the 2.3 crank....so I should be okay.

My next question has to do with the Starter wiring....

I traced the circuit, there is the exciter wire from the starter/ignition switch, which travels to transmission range switch, then through the switch to starter....but it t-intersects and has a lead to the Ignition Control Module....

So is this correct? The ICM needs 12v from starter, while cranking?
 
Here is what the flywheel side of my crank looks like...

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photo%25202.JPG


Also, what's that big hole, between two of the bolt holes? TDC mark?
 
The TFI needs 12 volts while cranking. If this is the red/blue wire that makes more sense. Just find the park or neutral wire at the range sensor and solder it to the signal return so it thinks it is always in park or neutral.
 
Heh heh, I drove a 66 Valiant that I jumped out the NSS. but I never swapped transmissions :D
 
Yep...I'm running the wire from the firewall connector, to starter & TFI....it'll connect straight to ignition switch, without the Range Sensor...

I'll recycle the length to old solenoid/relay, around engine, for my Fog Light relay.
 
I'm headed to the JY today, for a driveshaft...

Are the splines, transmission side, the same on a V6 M5od and 4-cylinder? Just asking, in case all I find are v6 models...

Also, the shifter too....are they the same?
 

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